[PwrStrkd73]

Sorry this is kinda long, but... I had to take my tranny out to have some stress cracks around the fill plug welded (but that's a whole different story). While it was out I decided to check/fix a few things. I noticed my clutch is fairly worn and a shim inside the pressure plate is out of place and has slipped off, or was put together wrong and is over too far to one side. The shim is visible from one side but not the other. That is probably accounting for some of the excessive wear. From my signature you'll see my truck is mildly modified and I mostly use it as a daily driver and to pull my 27' 5500# camper.

Also, before we took it apart my buddy test drove it and thought the clutch might be slipping, but it was hard to tell. After I removed it, I noticed the clutch is pretty worn for being less than a year old. The previous owner had it replaced at the stearlership b/c one of the dampener springs on the clutch disc popped out (common problem). Chances are the clutch was slipping b/c the pressure plate looks like it got hot, even though you can still feel and hear (when you pick the clutch up off the pressure plate, it sounds like running a needle across a record) the machining marks.

My dilemma is what clutch to put back in and on a budget. Buying the truck put me in a money crunch not to mention all the stuff I've had to fix along the way. I like the idea and performance of a puck (button) style clutch, but don't know about the drivability, same for the LUK clutch. I called one of the big online dealers and he told me for my use it would be best to put the factory clutch back in because its been upgraded since '99-'00 and I won't give up any drivability. I'm just wondering if I should have a little more of a high performance clutch for my set up. As I said its a daily driver, but does have a 3 position chip up to 120 HP, 4" exhaust, etc and I do like to get on it once in a while. I don't mind a little extra pedal pressure or jumpiness, but I also don't want to drive something everyday that grabs really hard or jumps and lurches when I take off.

My options are Factory, LUK, and Spicer style puck (button) clutch. I'd like to hear other opinons, what they run, etc.

 

[aprice2a]

I have the puck style luk clutch and it is pretty noisy.Also it doesnt have the holding power that i think it should.If i have to doit over again Ill do the southbend

 

[Tina]

Personally I would not go back with a stock clutch considering that you have a chip that goes up to 120hp and as you said, you like to get on it. That stock clutch will not hold up to that. Put in a better clutch that you wont have to replace in another year down the road. That, in itself, will save you $$$. That said, I've put in a Southbend in my truck and really, REALLY like it. There's sponsers here that sell them. They make different ones (different prices too). The clutch peddel pushes in real easy and it's not jumpy and doesn't lurch.

 

[gatorgrizz27]

Southbend OFE are the best all-around clutches. They cost around $900, but are as easy to drive and as smoothe as a stocker, but have greater holding power and will handle up to 400hp. I still have a stocker in mine, but when it goes out that's what I'm running. If you have a 99, switch out the shift fork too.

 

[jimmyendicott]

I put a 4 pos chip in mine and my clutch will slip in the tow mode and the extreme mode. I just bought a South Bend clutch, pressure plate, fly wheel, and throw out bearing for $650 free shipping. It is rated for 350 rwhp which is about what I am running. I haven't had it installed yet. I am getting ready to have it installed. Will let you know how well it works. I towed my 12K fifth wheel with my chip and the clutch would slip in tow mode and extreme mode. I will be glad to get the clutch installed so that I can take advantage of my new chip.

 

[NCHornet]

Southbend, had one in my last truck, Man that is a clutch and a half!!!

 

[PwrStrkd73]

What is the best or easiest way to tell if the clutch is slipping.

 

[DIRTBIKEZ]

Clutch Slippage Inspection and Verification

1. Chock the wheels.

2. Apply the parking brake.

3. Depress and release the clutch pedal slowly to check if the pedal is binding.

l If the clutch pedal is not binding, proceed to the next step in this procedure.

l If the clutch pedal is binding, inspect, and install a new clutch pedal and support bracket assembly as necessary. Refer to «Section 308-02». Test the system for normal operation. Proceed to the next step in this procedure, if necessary.

4. Depress the clutch pedal.

5. Start the engine.

6. Shift the transmission to fourth gear.

7. Increase the engine rpm to 2000 and slowly release the clutch pedal. If the engine stalls within five seconds, the clutch is not slipping.

l If the clutch is slipping, remove the clutch disc (7550) and pressure plate (7563). Refer to «Section 308-01». Inspect the clutch disc and pressure plate for wear and damage. Refer to «Clutch Pressure Plate Check» and to «Clutch Disc Check» in this section. Inspect the flywheel (6375) for glazing and damage. Check the clutch release hub and bearing for binding, and inspect the guide tube. Inspect the input shaft for wear and damage. Repair all components as necessary. Test the system for normal operation.

 

[garyt]

PwrStrkd73
I know you are on a budget but a Southbend CON OFE is the best for your application and it will leave room for a few mods.
The puck clutch is noisy and not as smooth.
What ever clutch you install remember to install a Kevlar pilot bushing (they come with the Southbend units)
Good Luck,

garyT

 

[PwrStrkd73]

Thanks all. I actually already have a Kevlar bushing. I ordered it, hoping the factory clutch was OK.

I'm thinking about going with the Spicer style puck clutch from Dial-A-Clutch. They are a site sponsor and we get a 5% discount for being members here. I E-mailed them & their new puck style is rated to 400 Horsepower. It's only $500 which is a little over 1/2 the price of Southbend's ConOFE and you use the factory flywheel.

Anyone running or heard anything about these?

http://www.dialaclutch.com/4puck.htm

 

[jaybee]

You might want to ask them about a dual friction version. I had a 4 puck all ceramic clutch in my '91 when I first put the 6 speed in and I hated it. When it was cold it would slip - but once it got up to temp it was a wall switch. When trying to back up to a trailer it was miserable. The more you tried to slip it the harder it wanted to grab. The judder was really bad when hot, and you'd swear the driveline was going to self destruct. I found it best to start in the lowest gear possible and not touch the gas till it was engaged.

I replaced it with a standard LUK 6 speed clutch and couldn't be happier. It is so much smoother. I will never run another ceramic puck style clutch again.

BTW - a local shop made that puck style clutch for me, not South Bend. I talked to South Bend about putting different linings on it which they claimed would soften it up - but decided to go conventional instead.

 

[PwrStrkd73]

Thanks Jaybee. Was your clutch pure ceramic or would it be comparable to cerametallic I linked to earlier from Dial-A-Clutch?

 

[jaybee]

You need to check with South Bend on the different grades. SB actually has different types of pucks they can use where the guy that made mine only had one grade. I honestly don't know how you'd identify the grade I had, but it seems to have been a full ceramic or cerametallic - not sure if there's a difference there or not.

Here is a link to a pic of the disc I used - Disc

I've now tried one of these type discs in a car and in a truck - and will never try another again. They just aren't smooth.

 

[DrSpeed]

Yeah, give Peter a call at South Bend Clutch.

1-800-988-4345

http://www.southbendclutch.com/ford_catalog.html

Tell him Denny sent ya. I just purchased a Dual Disc pulling clutch that I use in my truck...which also is my daily driver.

It grabs a bit, but that's just the nature of a dual disc (primary purpose is sled pulling).

So if their DD is that street smooth, I can only imagine the single disk units!

And Peter knows his stuff too. Tell him exacly what mods you have, and he'll do you right!

 

[drmiller100]

i've got a luk. love it. i think i paid 650 for it.

southbend has almost teh exact same clutch. not a puck style.

pedal effort is AWESOME.

no slip, no worries. one way street.

 

[PwrStrkd73]

For you guys running LUK's, do you have the regular one or the cermetallic one? LUK told me the two models are rated at 647 Ft. Lbs of torque for the regular one (? RepSet) and the cermettalic is 1000 Ft. Lbs of torque. The LUK rep also said they don't have a puck style clutch for the 7.3L, they're both regular round discs.

The tech at Dial-A-Clutch E-mailed back and said the one I linked to eariler is good to 450 HP and 1200 Ft. Lbs of torque, and is made by Valeo and Spicer. The power rating will be over what I need b/c with my current mods (& nothing else major planned) I'm currently at about 350 HP and 700+ Ft. Lbs. torque, I also have 35x12.50 BFG AT's I gotta get rolling each time too. I'm really leaning toward this one, ($500 price, puck style, & run stock flywheel) but Jaybee really has me thinking it may be too much, especially when I'm gonna be backing my 5500# 27' Travel Trailer up. On the other hand, I don't wanna sacrafice my HP mods through another slipping clutch.

I know the SouthBend ConOFE would be the perfect one, but I just don't have the $900 for it now (dont' really have $ for any of em after just buying this thing but S happens) and the tranny's already out for the other repair.

 

[drmiller100]

i have regular one.

 

[Bobcat698]

I carry the full South Bend Line and they are all I will sell for the Ford Powerstroke.
Check out our selection here

 

[edmguy69]

I've been running a Standard Luk (upgrade)with my power mods for about 2 yrs.Its a good deal for the money. It has held up great so far but when I decide to up the power again I think that I will shell out the $900 for the Southbend. In my opinion the standard Luk should be good to about 350 rwhp.

 

[PwrStrkd73]

Thanks a lot everyone. I took a leap of faith and ordered the 4 puck Spicer style from Dial A Clutch this a.m. I spoke several times to their awesome service rep Tom, who was very helpful and informative. He said this clutch may be a little noisier than stock, but is extremely drivable and WILL NOT slip with my mods. Its basically the same clutch International uses for their bigger flatbeds and tow trucks, but it is modified for our 13" flywheels vs. the 14" they run. He said they've done a lot of testing & modifying in house and through their dealers as to button compounds, sizes, thickness, etc. etc. He also said he's never had one returned b/c it was not drivable or too harsh. It's rated up to 450 horsepower and 1,200 Foot Pounds of torque. I can't wait to get it in, break it in, and put it to it!!

It will be here Wed. or Thurs, and with some good luck I should have it back together over the holiday weekend.

I'll post an update and what I think of the clutch after I get it in.