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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so I am going to start from the top about a year ago I had to replace my clutch. replaced with with a Valeo dual mast flywheel and a AMS auto clutch disk and pressure plate. both were 12 inch upgrades. after install had a problem with the firewall fixed that. now I have a problem when shifting mostly when I go to take off and starting. sometimes when I push in the clutch its easy and no problems but sometimes I push it down and its extremely hard and wont shift this is getting really annoying trying to go thru drive thru without grinding and tow trailers hook up and so on any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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First check the pedal assembly under the dash. Look for slop on the linkages, and so-on. Then check the slave cylinder action, is it moving like it should? Is it leaking? Is the throw=out gearing sliding like it should? The most likely in what I mentioned would be under dash linkage/bushings
 

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Assuming you have the ZF 5 speed, a common reoccurring problem is the throwout bearing collar binding on the input shaft bearing retainer that it slides back and forth on due to a gummy crud buildup. Ford came out with collar with a wiper on it to prevent the problem. Only other option, if that IS your problem, is remove the slave cylinder, rubber boot, and snake a vacuum hose in there connected to an oil squirt can and lube the retainer with a small amount of oil. It's a royal pain in the butt, but better than pulling the trans and all. I've had to do that every few years when I was using my truck 100% of the time.
 

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Assuming you have the ZF 5 speed, a common reoccurring problem is the throwout bearing collar binding on the input shaft bearing retainer that it slides back and forth on due to a gummy crud buildup. Ford came out with collar with a wiper on it to prevent the problem. Only other option, if that IS your problem, is remove the slave cylinder, rubber boot, and snake a vacuum hose in there connected to an oil squirt can and lube the retainer with a small amount of oil. It's a royal pain in the butt, but better than pulling the trans and all. I've had to do that every few years when I was using my truck 100% of the time.
Would it not be better to use like brake clean to get the crud off and keep the collar clean and dry then use a spray silicone for lube. Seems to me by putting oil on it attract dust and dirt. Just a thought.
 

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Good points, Randy, but the problem is, it's like building a model ship in a bottle that's painted black.:) The clutch fork hole in the bell housing is only about 1 1/2" X 2 1/2" and as I remember the pressure plate is partially in the way. And of course on 4X4's the front driveshaft is partly blocking your vision. I've rigged up an 1157 tail light bulb wired to the battery that I stick through the fork opening to light up and see in the bell housing. Then you have to move the T.O. brg collar back and forth with a long screwdriver, snake in the vacuum hose to drip oil both sides of the collar and brg retainer. It would be about impossible to hit the right spots with a spray even with the "straw" on the end of the nozzle. After suffering through this, depressing the clutch pedal takes WAY less effort for a number of years.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the input I will try and use some spray this weekend and see if the problem comes back it has a new throw out bearing from when I put the clutch in and thankful its a 2WD
 

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It would be about impossible to hit the right spots with a spray even with the "straw" on the end of the nozzle.
Thanks for the input I will try and use some spray this weekend and see if the problem comes back it
Good luck with that, spraying in there blindly you'll get it everywhere but where it needs to go.
 
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