[Crackle]

Comming home yesterday evening the clutch pedal just stayed on the floor after I went into second gear when leaving the last stop sign before my home. It was clear I had lost my clutch and I just drove on home shutting it off and standing on the brakes as I got home.

So now I can lift the pedal if I want and I can push it back down, where it will stay. I can hear a clear squishing sound at the clutch master cylinder, but I can't see any fluid. I have not pulled out the slave cylinder end of it.

There are two possibilities, one is a broken throwout bearing aculating arm and the other is the hydraulics - which I understand is sold as a unit, slave, master, hoses, and the small reserviour.

That all sound about right to you guys? Got any suggestions on how I can tell which it is? Any idea on parts cost?

Thom

 

[klhansen]

My money would be on the hydraulics. You probably don't see fluid leaking because it was most likely the piston seal on the master cylinder leaking back to the reservoir. You can pull the slave cylinder (be careful not to drop the pushrod into the clutch housing) and see if it extends when you push the pedal.

Here's the info for the hydraulic kit.

Clutch Control Assembly
2C3Z-7C522-CA $100.95 (fordparts.com)

 

[redneckinsac]

Mine did the same thing. Was the slave. Very expenisve to have the dealer do. Pick up the part and do it yer self.

 

[xmundt]

Greetings and Salutations...
Well, I had exactly the same problem, and
with exactly the same symptoms. I THOUGHT it was the
hydralics, so, dropped $135 on the complete unit. No joy.
Right now my transmission is sitting on the ground, and I
have some interesting pictures of a fatigued and broken
shift fork (and a new replacement).
Actually, it was kind of funny. I walked into the Ford dealership near my house, flopped the broken fork on the parts counter and said "guess what model f350 *I* have?". The parts guy looked at the fork and said "a 1999 or later...", walked back into the parts racks and returned in a couple of minutes with the correct replacement fork. Did not even have to look it up on the system! The new
one is obviously re-enforced and rather sturdier than the original.
The good news is that the clutch itself in in nearly new condition, so
I don't have to replace anything but the fork.
Now...before you go wild here and spend money, I would suggest doing this:
1) Crawl under the truck with a flashlight and small mirror.
2) Remove the slave cylinder from the transmission. Do this by pushing it in slightly and turning it. As may have been mentioned elsewhere, be careful NOT to rattle it too hard, or the pushrod might drop out. If it does...you get to pull the transmission.
3) Once the slave cylinder is out of the way, use the mirror and flashlight to look through the hole and check out the clutch fork. If it is pushed ALL the way back towards the motor...it is broken, and you STILL get to pull the transmission. If it is in "normal" position, it MAY be ok, and, it is worth replacing the hydraulics.
Regards
Dave Mundt

 

[Travis]

[ QUOTE ]
If it is in "normal" position, it MAY be ok, and, it is worth replacing the hydraulics.

[/ QUOTE ]

What is the definition of normal. Mine is sitting approx 3.5" from the outside lip for the slave. I have a luk sitting here since the truck has 107k and need to know if I need to order hydraulics and do it all?