The Diesel Stop banner

1 - 20 of 34 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've search the forums and looked up the codes. I'm not sure how to proceed. I thought it best to get some specific feedback and thoughts about what's going on. The truck starts and drives but is definitely missing one some cylinders (possibly 1 and 3). Prior to all this work, it ran smooth and strong, wasn't misfiring.

2001 f250 7.3 4x4 - 269,999mi - I've had her for less than 2 months
I had diesel in the coolant after a thorough coolant flush and not knowing if the PO had ever serviced the injectors, I decided to go ahead rebuild them while replacing the cups. During the reassembly I discovered my 42 pin connector on the engine harness side was messed up as was the driver side valve cover connector at the harness. Amazingly the truck was actually running really well except for a little startup stubbornness on cooler days prior to all this work.

...Remember, she is now running and drives but is missing on some cylinders.

Here's what I'm getting when I run a buzz test with Forscan when she's cold and warm
P1271 - Cylinder No. 1 High To Low Side Open
P1272 - Cylinder No. 2 High To Low Side Open
P1273 - Cylinder No. 3 High To Low Side Open
P1274 - Cylinder No. 4 High To Low Side Open
P1275 - Cylinder No. 5 High To Low Side Open
P1276 - Cylinder No. 6 High To Low Side Open
P1278 - Cylinder No. 8 High To Low Side Open
P1293 - Injector High Side Open - Bank 1
P1294 - Injector High Side Open - Bank 2

The buzzing was not even, it has some weaker sounds. I did not run a buzz test before rebuilding - I should have!

Running a cylinder contribution test, it reports these two
P0263 - Cylinder #1 Contribution/Balance
P0269 - Cylinder #3 Contribution/Balance

These are the parts I used:
Bitterroot deluxe stock rebuild kit
RiffRaff stainless cups with 620 locktight
RiffRaff bowl rebuild kit - I replaced the o-ring at the pressure return spring because it was leaking
Brand New Ford engine wiring harness
Fresh 15-40
New Apex valve covers
New Rad hoses, degas bottle, cap and hose

Here's what I've done so far
  1. I've driven the truck semi-hard for about 15 miles since getting it started. There's been no change in performance.
  2. After the codes and driving about 3 miles, I pulled the VCs and confirmed all connections for the injectors and GPs. Nothing pinched, loose or rubbing.
  3. ensured that the VC connections at the harness were in all the way and not loose.
  4. cleaned, with electronics cleaner, the chassis side of the 42 pin connector since that's the old side.
  5. checked all connections to all sensors on the new harness - all good - I did not clean the sensors
  6. Fresh 15-40 (the previous oil was newish with archoil in it) but I was concerned about contaminants from the cup replacement.
My concern is that the rebuilt injector's have sticking poppet valves which are causing the codes. However, I don't understand why I'd see that consistently on all cylinders except 7 AND also the bank 1 & 2 codes.

I used scotchbrite pads gently on the poppet pistons - I had some concern here but reasoned that the deposits I'd be removing were worse that the micro scratches that the scotchbrite would leave. I also scotchbrited the inside cylinders, o-ring surfaces, basically everything. I also kept the fuel side in fuel and the oil side in oil until each piece was added back to the assembly. Each piece went straight from the fluid to the assembly, touching nothing in between. I used the diagram from bitterroot to double check every single piece on each injector assembly. I was meticulous about cleaning between builds. I also notched the spacer between the solenoid and the adapter to allow better draining. As I understand, this is a good mod to do for cold starting and generally better for the injector life. I took extra care to clean up after that to ensure that no burrs remained.

Sooooo, any ideas? What should I try next?

Thanks,
JB
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
...also, there is no smoke at all coming from the tailpipe now after driving a few miles. None during idle or acceleration. I imagine there could be some white after it sits a while. However, I just got it together last night.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
25,864 Posts
All those codes are related to the IDM. You may have a broken IDM, or possibly there are issues on the body side of the wiring harness. They often rub on the driver's side valve cover and the injector circuits are on the bottom. If the insulation is worn thru ti can short the injector wiring. Or it could be the same issue that caused you to replace your engine harness - deteriorated insulation on the wires and shorting between circuits.

When replacing injectors, you've introduced air into the HP oil system and it takes a few miles of aggressive driving to purge it out. Also, expect some smoke initially, as there was probably residual fuel and oil in the cylinders from the injector swap. That clears up pretty quickly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
All those codes are related to the IDM. You may have a broken IDM, or possibly there are issues on the body side of the wiring harness. They often rub on the driver's side valve cover and the injector circuits are on the bottom. If the insulation is worn thru ti can short the injector wiring. Or it could be the same issue that caused you to replace your engine harness - deteriorated insulation on the wires and shorting between circuits.

When replacing injectors, you've introduced air into the HP oil system and it takes a few miles of aggressive driving to purge it out. Also, expect some smoke initially, as there was probably residual fuel and oil in the cylinders from the injector swap. That clears up pretty quickly.
Good call on checking the chassis side of the harness. That makes some sense because of what you're saying and because it's also something I've moved around. I could have messed it up. I'll inspect it.

Is it typical to get any of these codes following this job if there are no wiring or IDM issues?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
25,864 Posts
Is it typical to get any of these codes following this job if there are no wiring or IDM issues?
Not necessarily typical. But if you ran the buzz test after clearing codes, I would trust that they're true codes.

Also possible is that you didn't get the UVCH harness connectors or outside VC connectors fully seated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Not necessarily typical. But if you ran the buzz test after clearing codes, I would trust that they're true codes.

Also possible is that you didn't get the UVCH harness connectors or outside VC connectors fully seated.
Update:
I pulled the 42 pin and inspected both sides. The old side appears ok with a cursory inspection. However, the engine side has what I assume is dialectic grease filling some of the holes. I noticed this initially because the chassis side pins were coated with it.

Cleaning these had no impact. Buzz still results in the same codes
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
25,864 Posts
Excess dielectric grease can cause problems. I once gooped a bunch on when testing an IDM and got tons of codes. Wiped the grease off and retested and things were fine. It can bridge high voltage circuits. Be sure there's not too much on there that can do that. A bit in the holes isn't a bad thing, as it will help prevent corrosion.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Cleaning it up made no difference. There are no abbraisions on the body side of the 42 pin and the wires have no corrosion damage
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I checked the connectors at the VCs they were sold. I pulled them and put them back in just to be sure. Next step, I think, is to pull the VCs again and test with the old inj harnesses. Is there a way to test the IDM without replacing it outright?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
199 Posts
  • Like
Reactions: Jbatx

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
This little guy helped me determine my problem with my truck that appeared after doing similar work to yours. https://www.thedieselstop.com/attachments/gb_tech_bulletin_103_ford_idm_replacement-pdf.157645/
very cool. Thanks Greg.

Matthew from Bitterroot got back to me. He says that these codes happen when the armature plate has been shimmed too much - specifically more than .002. It's logical that would be the case since that's the biggest delta from the fully functioning system and the current state. I'm going to re-measure/re-shim 1,2,3,4,5,6,8
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
199 Posts
I just did the shims with the .004 on the plate and the .002 and .003 on the spacer. Hopefully yours is an easy fix.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I reshimmed 2,4,6,8. All fit the included .002 feeler more snuggly now. All have either no shim at all or no more than .002.

Unfortunately, I'm still getting the same codes on 2,4,6,8 on the buzz test.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
I ran through the tests that greg687 posted.

Test 1: Inj has no continuity at all with the solenoid plugged in. I pulled the inj plug and jumped the connector and checked again using pins 24 & 8, still no continuity. The sounds like a wiring issue. However, I still get a buzz on 5. ...so, IDK.
All other injectors measured 4.5 at the IDM plug.

Test 2: No continuity - all good there
Test 3: No continuity - all good there

I suspect that somewhere during all this, the was a short to ground that fried the IDM. It could have easily happened I suppose, I just don't know when. I had disconnected the batteries really early on in the process.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
25,864 Posts
The IDM will still buzz even if injectors have no continuity, but it won't be nearly as loud. I would check the wiring all the way from the IDM to the injectors for continuity.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
klhansen, that's actually what I did. Following the pinout diagram and instructions on on the linked PDF, I used the IDM connector to test resistance on all 8 injectors.

I put my hand on 5 during the buzz test and felt it when it was activated. How would it be possible for injector 5 to vibrate if it had no continuity at all?

I may be misunderstanding what you're suggesting about the IDM buzzing - but, the IDM itself is not buzzing, it's the activation of the electromagnet inside the injector solenoid that's buzzing. Do I misunderstand? Am I missing something?

Regarding #5, it's definitely not as loud as the others. But, it alone doesn't explain all the codes. Well, not as far as I know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Anyone around Austin have a spare idm that I could test with?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Update...
It has magically start running better in the driveway.

I replugged the idm, pulled and replugged the injectors and started her up. Ran a little smoother. Shutdown, did a buzz test. Injectors sound a little more uniform (probably my imagination). However, this time, I only got a code on #8 and nothing else. Started it up and its running like she was before. I then did a contribution test and it showed 8 and 3 - ignoring that. Shutdown, did a buzz and got p1271, 72, 74, 76. But nothing else.

Aside from plugging the idm back in I also have the VCs off and the 42 pin elevated several inches up and above the anchor point.

So, it was either the act of unplugging/plugging the idm or moving the harness up that removed big symptoms - that is the p1293 and p1294.

I'm going to pull the idm connector again and clean it.

When I reassemble, I'm going to inspect the hidden parts of the idm harness.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
...ran buzz two more times and have no codes now at all
 
1 - 20 of 34 Posts
Top