[Jbatx]

Thanks to all who helped out!!! Sincerely

JB

 

[jleedog]

You almost definitely have a wiring issue

 

[Greg687]

Thats my issue. I never found the short, but its gone. My biggest worry is it may come back. My next time under there Im going to bend the 42 pin bracket up to keep the harness away from the valve cover.

 

[Jbatx]

Thats my issue. I never found the short, but its gone. My biggest worry is it may come back. My next time under there Im going to bend the 42 pin bracket up to keep the harness away from the valve cover.

I suspect that my idm connection was subpar and messing with it might have cleaned it up. Also, I cleared the dtc codes in forscan just before it worked. Also, I hadn't driven it much... Who knows really. Im getting the injector codes again but not the bank codes, 1293 and 1294. I imagine the inj codes will go away when it's warmed up and until I just bite the bullet and replace them outright

 

[bugman]

It might help if you got some electrical contact cleaner and sprayed the snot out of your IDM connector. It will clean dirt and grease out of the connector.

 

[Jbatx]

Well, p1316 is consistent now. Running buzz test shows p1271, p1273, p1274, p1276 all the time. On the first real drive today I noticed that the accelerator pedal needed to be pushed a good bit further before she would start moving. Power felt normal afterward. She also died once while slowing down from 60mph on the highway. Sketchy! It took a bit to get her started again.

Idle feels a little unstable but that's real transient. It'll drop low then jump up a little and then stabilize for a while.

I did clean up the idm plug like I mentioned above. There are no obvious abbraisions on the 42 pin harness. I don't think there's a short considering the wiring tests I already ran.

I guess there could be a pcm to idm wiring issue. However, it seems like that would throw other codes. Yes?

Watching hpop and ipr duty cycle on Torque, things seem stable and normal; the same as they were before all this work and all these symptoms.

Here are my test logs

=== Log ===
(OK) [15:35:21.722] KOEO Injector Electrical Self Test has been started
(WARN) [15:35:37.107] Test completed, found DTCs: P1271, P1273, P1274, P1276
(OK) [15:36:34.337] KOER Switch Self Test has been started
(WARN) [15:37:36.838] Test completed, found DTCs: P1536, P0220, P1780, P0571, P0703, P0565, P0566, P0567, P0568, P0569


I'm guessing these four injectors and maybe the idm need to be replaced. ...that's an expensive "maybe".

..maybe cam position sensor or throttle pedal assembly switch or whatever it is?

Forgot to mention that I have a php hydra installed. Using the stock settings gives the same results. I usually have it in the 65hp fuel sipper setting. Fwiw

JB

 

[jleedog]

Have you tried removing the tuner entirely and seeing how it runs?

 

[Jbatx]

Have you tried removing the tuner entirely and seeing how it runs?

No not yet.

 

[klhansen]

Removing a chip/programmer shouild be the first step in troubleshooting. The P1271, P1273, P1274, P1276 codes point to injector wiring issues. Could be internal to the IDM, but wiring is more likely. You don't have any PCM to IDM communication codes.

 

[30fathoms]

x3 on removing the programmer. Not sure I have anything cogent to add but if all points to intermittent wiring issues, it may be worth checking continuity again with a helper moving each wire as you test. I've found a couple of intermittent connections this way when there was no external sign of breakage. Also, and this may seem a bit extreme, but if you can make the old harness 'safe' by isolating the exposed wires it may be worth a try to re-install and doing a run. Good luck...pls keep us posted.

 

[Jbatx]

Update and progress

I got to thinking hard about this and figured out a test procedure to eliminate the injector rebuild as the root cause. First though, the reason I did not remove the hydra was because there are 0 reports of it causing these issues and it was not part of the delta before to after all the work that I did - which yielded the problems I'm now having. The Hydra has been on there for 3 weeks with no codes. Thus, It was unlikely to be a cause.

Anyhow, as I stated, the largest delta is the shimming of the injectors. Of course, I also installed new o-rings, check balls and springs in each injector. Yet, those are all factory replacements - not modifications. Adding the shims is a modification - all be it a seemingly minor one.

I was getting P1271,1273,1272,1274,1276 from the IDM. of course there's also the 1316

Here's the deductive process I used to find the root cause:

1. Pull the driver side VC.
2. Set #2 back to the original poppet/armature measurement by removing all shims.
3. Reset DTC codes
4. Start the engine - gotta do this or else it won't actually throw the codes.
5. Shut the engine off
6. Run the buzz test.

Result: P1271,1273,1274,1276 (No more p1272)

Repeat steps 2-6 for injector #4
Result: P1271,1273,1276 (No more p1274)

Repeat steps 2-6 for injector #6
Results: P1271,1273 (No more p1276)

...At this point it's reasonable to conclude that doing the same procedure for #1 and #3 would resolve the p1271, 1273 and finally p1316.

I pondered this a bit and rubber ducked it with my smarty pants wife. Initially these results do not seem logical. From researching it, I believe this indicates that the armature was hitting the bottom of the solenoid when the armature is shimmed even just .002 or .001 in some cases. The wear part is the poppet seat, not the armature's top surface, the spacer or the solenoids mounting points. The overall gap from the solenoid bottom to the adapter top cannot shrink. It begs the question, how the heck is shimming to a tight .002 causing this when the factory gap is .004?

I believe the answer is lateral play in the poppet piston and cylinder and also the solenoid's ability unevenly pull on the armature which, when shimmed, might have a less stable base of support. That is, when compared to the top of the poppet valve alone.

If the armature can flex even a tiny amount it could hit the solenoid. If over time, the solenoid develops uneven pulling force, I believe it could cause that.

Combine all that and you'd get these results. This is why shimming the actual solenoid is needed - something I did not do.

Well, the Bitterroot kit doesn't mention that and doesn't come with solenoid shims. It just says don't shim more than .002 or you'll get codes. ..I didn't

I'm left with the choice of shimming the solenoid the same amount as I shim the armature and hoping for the best or replacing the injectors with new ones.

PS. ...also, before doing this I pulled the wire loom off of the 42pin on the body side and the IDM plug all the way back, inspected each wire, cleaned the plugs and IDM port, put the loom back and re-taped. There was only on slightly abraded wire where it had previously rubbed the VC and been repaired. The PO had also installed additional wire loom. No other issues in the harness.

I hope this helps someone out

JB

 

[Jbatx]

I totally own possibly screwing up the poppet piston a cylinder by scrotchbriting it.

 

[Greg687]

So, the shim kit I did said to shim the armature plate .004 and the spacerplate .005, which eliminates the chance of contact and brings us back to specs-ish. I have zero codes and issues from doing this, and the measurements I got were just over .004 at the armature plate afterward. My issues afterward were wiring related.
It's possible that your injectors are too worn for the shims to work, as you discuss with the lateral play portion.

 

[Jbatx]

So, the shim kit I did said to shim the armature plate .004 and the spacerplate .005, which eliminates the chance of contact and brings us back to specs-ish. I have zero codes and issues from doing this, and the measurements I got were just over .004 at the armature plate afterward. My issues afterward were wiring related.
It's possible that your injectors are too worn for the shims to work, as you discuss with the lateral play portion.

It was your comment and some other similar threads that helped me realize the issue. Matthew from bitterroot said the generally the same thing about the oil side.

I pulled the shims from 1 and 3. No codes. With the new internals and o-rings, she runs great. At some point I'll put new injectors in. But, for now I need a pause on the $$$$. This has been an expensive rehab of a good old truck.