[Raise]

Well i finally found a tool that could retrieve my DTCs. From what ive researched, the first 2 are benign codes, like a burnt bulb at some point, or something of the sort. However, with the boost/boost gauge/lack of power issues Ive been having, I think there is something to the P1247 code, which is for low boost pressure. Let me start with the gauge. My Autometer boost gauge has sat at -5 since the day i bought the truck. With engine off and at idle, it sits at -5. While cruising, it barely moves at all, maybe 1 psi. Even when i step on it, it does not move more than 1-2 psi. Also, if you were a party to my other thread about having no power when downshifting, this all seems to tie together. The consensus ended up being that the trans was doing what it should, but upon stomping on the pedal and downshifting, the truck goes nowhere. Let me reiterate that this is all without towing, no load at all. Anyway, it seems that the code, gauge reading, and lack of power are all linked. I checked all the turbo boots, and tightened the ones that werent completely tight, with no change. I checked the fitting on the back of the gauge and its tight and the plastic tube looks good. I checked the hose going from the MAP sensor to the turbo y pipe and it looks good, no cuts or holes and feels tight as well. I took a picture of one of the boots and either the up-pipe or down-pipe, not sure which one it is, but it has the blue boot and i did notice the blue boot has what look like a good amount of soot on it, even though the boot clamps are completey tight. Also, the pipe has been wrapped in foil by the previous owner for some reason. Anyway, guys if you could give me your thoughts, i would really appreciate it. The picture is at the top of the thread. Thanks guys

 

[John in OkieLand]

your Autometer gauge must not be functioning right, or is miss plumbed, or there is a huge leak somewhere.

I get 5 psi just on cruise control, and have seen 18+ with throttle down a bit

 

[Maryland dieselnick]

 

[Maryland dieselnick]

 

[Maryland dieselnick]

You need to clear your codes. You need to see if this code is continuous or Key On Engine Off so I can direct you to the right pinpoint test.
You need to disconnect all off that hinky wiring at that fuse box I saw in your other thread and any other place on that truck.
Clear your codes. Rerun key on engine off and key on engine running. Write codes down then clear them. Take it for a drive. Put it to it. Run codes the same way. Report back what codes come back.
Pull the intake hose that goes to turbo. Wiggle wheel. Post picture.
Foil on turbo tube is factory. That tube comes out of intercooler. Turbo compresses air. That makes it hot. Engine has more power with cool dense air. That foil insulation keeps the hot air in the engine compartment from effecting the air in that tube that feeds the engine.
Your boots and plennum couplers look original. Get rid of them. If they leak you will have low boost.
Fo what I said and report back.

 

[Maryland dieselnick]

You need to buy a digital multimeter. That analog volt meter you were using in your other thread is not adequate for working on your truck. They are inexpensive.
You should buy the Ford 7.3 Diesel Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis manual. Look to EBay for that. Same with the main manuals.
It is very apparent to me that this truck has been poorly maintained and has had poor quality work performed on it. Those books will be needed by you.

 

[Raise]

your Autometer gauge must not be functioning right, or is miss plumbed, or there is a huge leak somewhere.

I get 5 psi just on cruise control, and have seen 18+ with throttle down a bit

i traced it all the way from the T fitting in the MAP hose to the back of the gauge itself. I could not find a crimp or a hole or anything.

 

[Raise]

You need to clear your codes. You need to see if this code is continuous or Key On Engine Off so I can direct you to the right pinpoint test.
You need to disconnect all off that hinky wiring at that fuse box I saw in your other thread and any other place on that truck.
Clear your codes. Rerun key on engine off and key on engine running. Write codes down then clear them. Take it for a drive. Put it to it. Run codes the same way. Report back what codes come back.
Pull the intake hose that goes to turbo. Wiggle wheel. Post picture.
Foil on turbo tube is factory. That tube comes out of intercooler. Turbo compresses air. That makes it hot. Engine has more power with cool dense air. That foil insulation keeps the hot air in the engine compartment from effecting the air in that tube that feeds the engine.
Your boots and plennum couplers look original. Get rid of them. If they leak you will have low boost.
Fo what I said and report back.

Ok, so clear codes and see if they return? Got it. Do i clear codes through the Forscan software or another way?

 

[Raise]

You need to clear your codes. You need to see if this code is continuous or Key On Engine Off so I can direct you to the right pinpoint test.
You need to disconnect all off that hinky wiring at that fuse box I saw in your other thread and any other place on that truck.
Clear your codes. Rerun key on engine off and key on engine running. Write codes down then clear them. Take it for a drive. Put it to it. Run codes the same way. Report back what codes come back.
Pull the intake hose that goes to turbo. Wiggle wheel. Post picture.
Foil on turbo tube is factory. That tube comes out of intercooler. Turbo compresses air. That makes it hot. Engine has more power with cool dense air. That foil insulation keeps the hot air in the engine compartment from effecting the air in that tube that feeds the engine.
Your boots and plennum couplers look original. Get rid of them. If they leak you will have low boost.
Fo what I said and report back.

I disconnected those gauge wires from the fuse panel, now just waiting to get a few fuse taps to rerun gauge wires to the box

 

[Raise]

You need to clear your codes. You need to see if this code is continuous or Key On Engine Off so I can direct you to the right pinpoint test.
You need to disconnect all off that hinky wiring at that fuse box I saw in your other thread and any other place on that truck.
Clear your codes. Rerun key on engine off and key on engine running. Write codes down then clear them. Take it for a drive. Put it to it. Run codes the same way. Report back what codes come back.
Pull the intake hose that goes to turbo. Wiggle wheel. Post picture.
Foil on turbo tube is factory. That tube comes out of intercooler. Turbo compresses air. That makes it hot. Engine has more power with cool dense air. That foil insulation keeps the hot air in the engine compartment from effecting the air in that tube that feeds the engine.
Your boots and plennum couplers look original. Get rid of them. If they leak you will have low boost.
Fo what I said and report back.

Ok so wiggle the turbo wheel itself and check for play? Got it

 

[klhansen]

Did you poke a wire thru the connection on the turbo wye? Maybe it's clogged. If so, it wouldn't let pressure get to the MAP sensor (or your boost gauge). But the gauge showing -5 psi with the engine off is an indication that it may be a problem with the gauge. That wouldn't cause a code though.

 

[Raise]

Did you poke a wire thru the connection on the turbo wye? Maybe it's clogged. If so, it wouldn't let pressure get to the MAP sensor (or your boost gauge). But the gauge showing -5 psi with the engine off is an indication that it may be a problem with the gauge. That wouldn't cause a code though.

Are you referring to the electrical connection on the turbo Y or the where the MAP hose attaches to the turbo Y?

 

[klhansen]

Where the hose connects to the turbo wire.

 

[Maryland dieselnick]

There should not even be a negitive 5 printed on an analog boost gauge.
Forget about the gauge for now.
It almost sounds like they used a vacuum gauge and you are reading it wrong or something. There is no tappable vacuum on a diesel because the air intake path is fully open. Take a picture of the gauge and focus on what I wrote.

 

[Raise]

Where the hose connects to the turbo wire.

Im sorry man, what exactly is the turbo wire?

 

[Raise]

There should even be a negitive 5 printed on an analog boost gauge.
Forget about the gauge for now.
It almost sounds like they used a vacuum gauge and you are reading it wrong or something. There is no tappable vacuum on a diesel because the air intake path is fully open. Take a picture of the gauge and focus on what I wrote.

It reads boost above 0 and vacuum below 0. Here is a picture of it, and it stays right at -5 all the time…engine off, idling, and cruising

 

[Maryland dieselnick]

Never seen such a thing.
That gauge is for a turbo charged gasoline engine.
Now go get those codes in the manner directed.

 

[Raise]

Never seen such a thing.
That gauge is for a turbo charged gasoline engine.
Now go get those codes in the manner directed.

So just clear them with the software and see if they return after a few miles of driving?

 

[Maryland dieselnick]

Yes, Clear codes with scanner. Reread my directions for retrieving them. Do not skip steps in doing so.

 

[Raise]

Where the hose connects to the turbo wire.

Sorry man, i was just confused, in one post you called it the turbo wye and the next you called it the turno wire. I wasnt sure if i was looking for an electrical connection or if you meant where the MAP hose enters the Y area of the turbo like in this picture