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Posts by Maryland dieselnick
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You need to clear your codes. You need to see if this code is continuous or Key On Engine Off so I can direct you to the right pinpoint test.
You need to disconnect all off that hinky wiring at that fuse box I saw in your other thread and any other place on that truck.
Clear your codes. Rerun key on engine off and key on engine running. Write codes down then clear them. Take it for a drive. Put it to it. Run codes the same way. Report back what codes come back.
Pull the intake hose that goes to turbo. Wiggle wheel. Post picture.
Foil on turbo tube is factory. That tube comes out of intercooler. Turbo compresses air. That makes it hot. Engine has more power with cool dense air. That foil insulation keeps the hot air in the engine compartment from effecting the air in that tube that feeds the engine.
Your boots and plennum couplers look original. Get rid of them. If they leak you will have low boost.
Fo what I said and report back.
You need to disconnect all off that hinky wiring at that fuse box I saw in your other thread and any other place on that truck.
Clear your codes. Rerun key on engine off and key on engine running. Write codes down then clear them. Take it for a drive. Put it to it. Run codes the same way. Report back what codes come back.
Pull the intake hose that goes to turbo. Wiggle wheel. Post picture.
Foil on turbo tube is factory. That tube comes out of intercooler. Turbo compresses air. That makes it hot. Engine has more power with cool dense air. That foil insulation keeps the hot air in the engine compartment from effecting the air in that tube that feeds the engine.
Your boots and plennum couplers look original. Get rid of them. If they leak you will have low boost.
Fo what I said and report back.
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You need to buy a digital multimeter. That analog volt meter you were using in your other thread is not adequate for working on your truck. They are inexpensive.
You should buy the Ford 7.3 Diesel Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis manual. Look to EBay for that. Same with the main manuals.
It is very apparent to me that this truck has been poorly maintained and has had poor quality work performed on it. Those books will be needed by you.
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You should buy the Ford 7.3 Diesel Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis manual. Look to EBay for that. Same with the main manuals.
It is very apparent to me that this truck has been poorly maintained and has had poor quality work performed on it. Those books will be needed by you.
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There should not even be a negitive 5 printed on an analog boost gauge.
Forget about the gauge for now.
It almost sounds like they used a vacuum gauge and you are reading it wrong or something. There is no tappable vacuum on a diesel because the air intake path is fully open. Take a picture of the gauge and focus on what I wrote.
Forget about the gauge for now.
It almost sounds like they used a vacuum gauge and you are reading it wrong or something. There is no tappable vacuum on a diesel because the air intake path is fully open. Take a picture of the gauge and focus on what I wrote.
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Never seen such a thing.
That gauge is for a turbo charged gasoline engine.
Now go get those codes in the manner directed.
That gauge is for a turbo charged gasoline engine.
Now go get those codes in the manner directed.
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Yes, Clear codes with scanner. Reread my directions for retrieving them. Do not skip steps in doing so.
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I called it the wheel. Take the hose that goes from the air cleaner to the turbo off. Make sure the wheel is free and not binding.
KHansen wrote wire. He has talking about an electrical connection related to your gauge. We have the gauge issue now handled. The photo you posted is of the turbo’s wastegate actuator pressure solenoid.
Dont get distracted. Run continuous codes. Run the Self Tests. Follow my code retrieval instructions. Stay focused.
KHansen wrote wire. He has talking about an electrical connection related to your gauge. We have the gauge issue now handled. The photo you posted is of the turbo’s wastegate actuator pressure solenoid.
Dont get distracted. Run continuous codes. Run the Self Tests. Follow my code retrieval instructions. Stay focused.
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( KOEO) Key On Engine Off means just that. Turn your key on but don’t start engine.
Key On Engine Running ( KOER ) means engine running.
Scanner will show Self Test Menu. Follow prompts.
Key On Engine Running ( KOER ) means engine running.
Scanner will show Self Test Menu. Follow prompts.
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Stay focused. Your already guessing at MAP sensor. You have a low boost code. Truck is behaving as it has low boost so guessing ( which you shouldn’t be doing) that your MAP sensor is bad makes no sense.
Your original intercooler boots and plennum couplers need to be replaced. Get them ordered. Get a digital multi meter ordered.
Your boost gauge has nothing to do with your code. It reads weird because it is not for use in a Diesel engine truck. Live with its weirdness or buy a regular boost gauge. The one you have is for a turbo gasoline engine equipped vehicle. Find one that reads 0-25 psi.
Stay on track. Get codes. Get. Boot kit and multimeter ordered.
Your original intercooler boots and plennum couplers need to be replaced. Get them ordered. Get a digital multi meter ordered.
Your boost gauge has nothing to do with your code. It reads weird because it is not for use in a Diesel engine truck. Live with its weirdness or buy a regular boost gauge. The one you have is for a turbo gasoline engine equipped vehicle. Find one that reads 0-25 psi.
Stay on track. Get codes. Get. Boot kit and multimeter ordered.
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Also put on your list a turbo outlet oring. You can get that from diesel Orings dot com. When you call there tell them you also need fuel pressure test fittings for the fuel bowl. You should have that set up on your bowl and it doesn’t make sense to put a $2 order in for an oring. You need that oring because you will be pulling that compressor manifold off the front of your turbo to replace the leaking rubber plennum couplers. You can buy them and the boots there as well.
Chop Chop.
Chop Chop.
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Take it for a drive until temp gauge on dash is normal temp. Do the code thing by clearing and running as I outlined. Take it out, push it to kick turbo in. Return home. Rerun codes.
Take a look at those red and green plastic pressure hoses at the turbo. If they are in rough shape, order a new pressure hose kit. The red and green come together.
Take a look at those red and green plastic pressure hoses at the turbo. If they are in rough shape, order a new pressure hose kit. The red and green come together.
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Just do your best to follow my instructions and prompts on scanner.
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Raise,
Clear your codes.
Take truck for a drive until it reaches normal operating temperature.
Return home.
Retrieve Continuous codes.
Run Self Tests.
Take it for a drive. Accelerate hard.
Return home.
Rerun codes.
Clear your codes.
Take truck for a drive until it reaches normal operating temperature.
Return home.
Retrieve Continuous codes.
Run Self Tests.
Take it for a drive. Accelerate hard.
Return home.
Rerun codes.
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Yes and write them down every time.
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I believe so. I don’t use Forscan.
What are you waiting on guy? Get out there.
What are you waiting on guy? Get out there.
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Asked and answered. I understand.
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