[Raise]

Well i finally found a tool that could retrieve my DTCs. From what ive researched, the first 2 are benign codes, like a burnt bulb at some point, or something of the sort. However, with the boost/boost gauge/lack of power issues Ive been having, I think there is something to the P1247 code, which is for low boost pressure. Let me start with the gauge. My Autometer boost gauge has sat at -5 since the day i bought the truck. With engine off and at idle, it sits at -5. While cruising, it barely moves at all, maybe 1 psi. Even when i step on it, it does not move more than 1-2 psi. Also, if you were a party to my other thread about having no power when downshifting, this all seems to tie together. The consensus ended up being that the trans was doing what it should, but upon stomping on the pedal and downshifting, the truck goes nowhere. Let me reiterate that this is all without towing, no load at all. Anyway, it seems that the code, gauge reading, and lack of power are all linked. I checked all the turbo boots, and tightened the ones that werent completely tight, with no change. I checked the fitting on the back of the gauge and its tight and the plastic tube looks good. I checked the hose going from the MAP sensor to the turbo y pipe and it looks good, no cuts or holes and feels tight as well. I took a picture of one of the boots and either the up-pipe or down-pipe, not sure which one it is, but it has the blue boot and i did notice the blue boot has what look like a good amount of soot on it, even though the boot clamps are completey tight. Also, the pipe has been wrapped in foil by the previous owner for some reason. Anyway, guys if you could give me your thoughts, i would really appreciate it. The picture is at the top of the thread. Thanks guys

 

[Raise]

your Autometer gauge must not be functioning right, or is miss plumbed, or there is a huge leak somewhere.

I get 5 psi just on cruise control, and have seen 18+ with throttle down a bit

i traced it all the way from the T fitting in the MAP hose to the back of the gauge itself. I could not find a crimp or a hole or anything.

 

[Raise]

You need to clear your codes. You need to see if this code is continuous or Key On Engine Off so I can direct you to the right pinpoint test.
You need to disconnect all off that hinky wiring at that fuse box I saw in your other thread and any other place on that truck.
Clear your codes. Rerun key on engine off and key on engine running. Write codes down then clear them. Take it for a drive. Put it to it. Run codes the same way. Report back what codes come back.
Pull the intake hose that goes to turbo. Wiggle wheel. Post picture.
Foil on turbo tube is factory. That tube comes out of intercooler. Turbo compresses air. That makes it hot. Engine has more power with cool dense air. That foil insulation keeps the hot air in the engine compartment from effecting the air in that tube that feeds the engine.
Your boots and plennum couplers look original. Get rid of them. If they leak you will have low boost.
Fo what I said and report back.

Ok, so clear codes and see if they return? Got it. Do i clear codes through the Forscan software or another way?

 

[Raise]

You need to clear your codes. You need to see if this code is continuous or Key On Engine Off so I can direct you to the right pinpoint test.
You need to disconnect all off that hinky wiring at that fuse box I saw in your other thread and any other place on that truck.
Clear your codes. Rerun key on engine off and key on engine running. Write codes down then clear them. Take it for a drive. Put it to it. Run codes the same way. Report back what codes come back.
Pull the intake hose that goes to turbo. Wiggle wheel. Post picture.
Foil on turbo tube is factory. That tube comes out of intercooler. Turbo compresses air. That makes it hot. Engine has more power with cool dense air. That foil insulation keeps the hot air in the engine compartment from effecting the air in that tube that feeds the engine.
Your boots and plennum couplers look original. Get rid of them. If they leak you will have low boost.
Fo what I said and report back.

I disconnected those gauge wires from the fuse panel, now just waiting to get a few fuse taps to rerun gauge wires to the box

 

[Raise]

You need to clear your codes. You need to see if this code is continuous or Key On Engine Off so I can direct you to the right pinpoint test.
You need to disconnect all off that hinky wiring at that fuse box I saw in your other thread and any other place on that truck.
Clear your codes. Rerun key on engine off and key on engine running. Write codes down then clear them. Take it for a drive. Put it to it. Run codes the same way. Report back what codes come back.
Pull the intake hose that goes to turbo. Wiggle wheel. Post picture.
Foil on turbo tube is factory. That tube comes out of intercooler. Turbo compresses air. That makes it hot. Engine has more power with cool dense air. That foil insulation keeps the hot air in the engine compartment from effecting the air in that tube that feeds the engine.
Your boots and plennum couplers look original. Get rid of them. If they leak you will have low boost.
Fo what I said and report back.

Ok so wiggle the turbo wheel itself and check for play? Got it

 

[Raise]

Did you poke a wire thru the connection on the turbo wye? Maybe it's clogged. If so, it wouldn't let pressure get to the MAP sensor (or your boost gauge). But the gauge showing -5 psi with the engine off is an indication that it may be a problem with the gauge. That wouldn't cause a code though.

Are you referring to the electrical connection on the turbo Y or the where the MAP hose attaches to the turbo Y?

 

[Raise]

Where the hose connects to the turbo wire.

Im sorry man, what exactly is the turbo wire?

 

[Raise]

There should even be a negitive 5 printed on an analog boost gauge.
Forget about the gauge for now.
It almost sounds like they used a vacuum gauge and you are reading it wrong or something. There is no tappable vacuum on a diesel because the air intake path is fully open. Take a picture of the gauge and focus on what I wrote.

It reads boost above 0 and vacuum below 0. Here is a picture of it, and it stays right at -5 all the time…engine off, idling, and cruising

 

[Raise]

Never seen such a thing.
That gauge is for a turbo charged gasoline engine.
Now go get those codes in the manner directed.

So just clear them with the software and see if they return after a few miles of driving?

 

[Raise]

Where the hose connects to the turbo wire.

Sorry man, i was just confused, in one post you called it the turbo wye and the next you called it the turno wire. I wasnt sure if i was looking for an electrical connection or if you meant where the MAP hose enters the Y area of the turbo like in this picture

 

[Raise]

Yes, Clear codes with scanner. Reread my directions for retrieving them. Do not skip steps in doing so.

Im not sure what you mean

Yes, Clear codes with scanner. Reread my directions for retrieving them. Do not skip steps in doing so.

Im not sure what you mean when you say “key on engine off” and then “key on engine running.” I know the positions you are referring to but i dont understand exactly what you are instructing me to do.

 

[Raise]

I called it the wheel. Take the hose that goes from the air cleaner to the turbo off. Make sure the wheel is free and not binding.
KHansen wrote wire. He has talking about an electrical connection related to your gauge. We have the gauge issue now handled. The photo you posted is of the turbo’s wastegate actuator pressure solenoid.
Dont get distracted. Run continuous codes. Run the Self Tests. Follow my code retrieval instructions. Stay focused.

i am focused, i just dont see how we have the gauge issue handled??? And your instructions for clearing and retrieving do not make sense to me.

 

[Raise]

Damn spell check

TURBO WYE is what I meant to type. The hose that connects to the MAP sensor over on the heater box runs down to the front of the TURBO WYE and connects to a metal nipple on the front of the wye (can't really see it in your pic).

Oh yeah the metal 90 degree nipple? Yeah i saw that. So take the hose off and make sure the fitting and hose are not clogged?

 

[Raise]

YES!!
Sorry it took so long to get that point across. I was just getting ready to post your first pic with an arrow pointing at it.

Thanks buddy, i appreciate it. If these lines are clear, could a bad MAP sensor possibly be the culprit? Could the sensor alone cause a low to zero boost situation like this?

 

[Raise]

If the lines are clear, a bad MAP sensor could cause a low boost code, but not actual low boost. But the gauge should show some movement, assuming your turbo is working correctly (not bound up) and the intercooler boots aren't leaking severely. But the gauge may be bad as well (multiple issues?) if it doesn't move at all. If you have a mityvac tool, you could pull a vacuum on it and see if it moves. Or hook up a tire pump and put some pressure on the MAP sensor and see what the scan tool shows for pressure, as well as check the boost gauge. But like Nick said, that's a boost gauge for a gasser with a turbo, which develops vacuum as well as boost in the intake system.

So even if the gauge isnt bad, should i be looking for a boost gauge geared toward a diesel?

 

[Raise]

Stay focused. Your already guessing at MAP sensor. You have a low boost code. Truck is behaving as it has low boost so guessing ( which you shouldn’t be doing) that your MAP sensor is bad makes no sense.
Your original intercooler boots and plennum couplers need to be replaced. Get them ordered. Get a digital multi meter ordered.
Your boost gauge has nothing to do with your code. It reads weird because it is not for use in a Diesel engine truck. Live with its weirdness or buy a regular boost gauge. The one you have is for a turbo gasoline engine equipped vehicle. Find one that reads 0-25 psi.
Stay on track. Get codes. Get. Boot kit and multimeter ordered.

10-4 on the gauge. I already have a digital multimeter

 

[Raise]

( KOEO) Key On Engine Off means just that. Turn your key on but don’t start engine.
Key On Engine Running ( KOER ) means engine running.
Scanner will show Self Test Menu. Follow prompts.

Ok i will get the codes cleared. How much driving should i do before i try to pull codes again? It is not a daily driver truck

 

[Raise]

Take it for a drive until temp gauge on dash is normal temp. Do the code thing by clearing and running as I outlined. Take it out, push it to kick turbo in. Return home. Rerun codes.
Take a look at those red and green plastic pressure hoses at the turbo. If they are in rough shape, order a new pressure hose kit. The red and green come together.

The Forscan software should walk me through the KOEO and KOER steps for clearing codes shouldnt it? I just wana make sure i do everything in the right order

 

[Raise]

Raise,
Clear your codes.
Take truck for a drive until it reaches normal operating temperature.
Return home.
Retrieve Continuous codes.
Run Self Tests.
Take it for a drive. Accelerate hard.
Return home.
Rerun codes.

Thanks Nick. Am i clearing the codes again before taking the truck for the 2nd drive?