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I called it the wheel. Take the hose that goes from the air cleaner to the turbo off. Make sure the wheel is free and not binding.
KHansen wrote wire. He has talking about an electrical connection related to your gauge. We have the gauge issue now handled. The photo you posted is of the turbo’s wastegate actuator pressure solenoid.
Dont get distracted. Run continuous codes. Run the Self Tests. Follow my code retrieval instructions. Stay focused.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Yes, Clear codes with scanner. Reread my directions for retrieving them. Do not skip steps in doing so.
Im not sure what you mean
Yes, Clear codes with scanner. Reread my directions for retrieving them. Do not skip steps in doing so.
Im not sure what you mean when you say “key on engine off” and then “key on engine running.” I know the positions you are referring to but i dont understand exactly what you are instructing me to do.
 

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Im sorry man, what exactly is the turbo wire?
Damn spell check :mad:

TURBO WYE is what I meant to type. The hose that connects to the MAP sensor over on the heater box runs down to the front of the TURBO WYE and connects to a metal nipple on the front of the wye (can't really see it in your pic).
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I called it the wheel. Take the hose that goes from the air cleaner to the turbo off. Make sure the wheel is free and not binding.
KHansen wrote wire. He has talking about an electrical connection related to your gauge. We have the gauge issue now handled. The photo you posted is of the turbo’s wastegate actuator pressure solenoid.
Dont get distracted. Run continuous codes. Run the Self Tests. Follow my code retrieval instructions. Stay focused.
i am focused, i just dont see how we have the gauge issue handled??? And your instructions for clearing and retrieving do not make sense to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Damn spell check :mad:

TURBO WYE is what I meant to type. The hose that connects to the MAP sensor over on the heater box runs down to the front of the TURBO WYE and connects to a metal nipple on the front of the wye (can't really see it in your pic).
Oh yeah the metal 90 degree nipple? Yeah i saw that. So take the hose off and make sure the fitting and hose are not clogged?
 

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YES!!
Sorry it took so long to get that point across. I was just getting ready to post your first pic with an arrow pointing at it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
YES!!
Sorry it took so long to get that point across. I was just getting ready to post your first pic with an arrow pointing at it.
Thanks buddy, i appreciate it. If these lines are clear, could a bad MAP sensor possibly be the culprit? Could the sensor alone cause a low to zero boost situation like this?
 

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If the lines are clear, a bad MAP sensor could cause a low boost code, but not actual low boost. But the gauge should show some movement, assuming your turbo is working correctly (not bound up) and the intercooler boots aren't leaking severely. But the gauge may be bad as well (multiple issues?) if it doesn't move at all. If you have a mityvac tool, you could pull a vacuum on it and see if it moves. Or hook up a tire pump and put some pressure on the MAP sensor and see what the scan tool shows for pressure, as well as check the boost gauge. But like Nick said, that's a boost gauge for a gasser with a turbo, which develops vacuum as well as boost in the intake system.
 

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Stay focused. Your already guessing at MAP sensor. You have a low boost code. Truck is behaving as it has low boost so guessing ( which you shouldn’t be doing) that your MAP sensor is bad makes no sense.
Your original intercooler boots and plennum couplers need to be replaced. Get them ordered. Get a digital multi meter ordered.
Your boost gauge has nothing to do with your code. It reads weird because it is not for use in a Diesel engine truck. Live with its weirdness or buy a regular boost gauge. The one you have is for a turbo gasoline engine equipped vehicle. Find one that reads 0-25 psi.
Stay on track. Get codes. Get. Boot kit and multimeter ordered.
 

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Also put on your list a turbo outlet oring. You can get that from diesel Orings dot com. When you call there tell them you also need fuel pressure test fittings for the fuel bowl. You should have that set up on your bowl and it doesn’t make sense to put a $2 order in for an oring. You need that oring because you will be pulling that compressor manifold off the front of your turbo to replace the leaking rubber plennum couplers. You can buy them and the boots there as well.
Chop Chop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
If the lines are clear, a bad MAP sensor could cause a low boost code, but not actual low boost. But the gauge should show some movement, assuming your turbo is working correctly (not bound up) and the intercooler boots aren't leaking severely. But the gauge may be bad as well (multiple issues?) if it doesn't move at all. If you have a mityvac tool, you could pull a vacuum on it and see if it moves. Or hook up a tire pump and put some pressure on the MAP sensor and see what the scan tool shows for pressure, as well as check the boost gauge. But like Nick said, that's a boost gauge for a gasser with a turbo, which develops vacuum as well as boost in the intake system.
So even if the gauge isnt bad, should i be looking for a boost gauge geared toward a diesel?
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Stay focused. Your already guessing at MAP sensor. You have a low boost code. Truck is behaving as it has low boost so guessing ( which you shouldn’t be doing) that your MAP sensor is bad makes no sense.
Your original intercooler boots and plennum couplers need to be replaced. Get them ordered. Get a digital multi meter ordered.
Your boost gauge has nothing to do with your code. It reads weird because it is not for use in a Diesel engine truck. Live with its weirdness or buy a regular boost gauge. The one you have is for a turbo gasoline engine equipped vehicle. Find one that reads 0-25 psi.
Stay on track. Get codes. Get. Boot kit and multimeter ordered.
10-4 on the gauge. I already have a digital multimeter
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
( KOEO) Key On Engine Off means just that. Turn your key on but don’t start engine.
Key On Engine Running ( KOER ) means engine running.
Scanner will show Self Test Menu. Follow prompts.
Ok i will get the codes cleared. How much driving should i do before i try to pull codes again? It is not a daily driver truck
 

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Take it for a drive until temp gauge on dash is normal temp. Do the code thing by clearing and running as I outlined. Take it out, push it to kick turbo in. Return home. Rerun codes.
Take a look at those red and green plastic pressure hoses at the turbo. If they are in rough shape, order a new pressure hose kit. The red and green come together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Take it for a drive until temp gauge on dash is normal temp. Do the code thing by clearing and running as I outlined. Take it out, push it to kick turbo in. Return home. Rerun codes.
Take a look at those red and green plastic pressure hoses at the turbo. If they are in rough shape, order a new pressure hose kit. The red and green come together.
The Forscan software should walk me through the KOEO and KOER steps for clearing codes shouldnt it? I just wana make sure i do everything in the right order
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Raise,
Clear your codes.
Take truck for a drive until it reaches normal operating temperature.
Return home.
Retrieve Continuous codes.
Run Self Tests.
Take it for a drive. Accelerate hard.
Return home.
Rerun codes.
Thanks Nick. Am i clearing the codes again before taking the truck for the 2nd drive?
 
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