[Raise]

Raise,
Clear your codes.
Take truck for a drive until it reaches normal operating temperature.
Return home.
Retrieve Continuous codes.
Run Self Tests.
Take it for a drive. Accelerate hard.
Return home.
Rerun codes.

I am new to Forscan. I have the free version right now. Will this version let me run self tests?

 

[Maryland dieselnick]

I believe so. I don’t use Forscan.
What are you waiting on guy? Get out there.

 

[Raise]

I believe so. I don’t use Forscan.
What are you waiting on guy? Get out there.

If you knew my work schedule and home life…..im tryin man

 

[Maryland dieselnick]

Asked and answered. I understand.

 

[John in OkieLand]

I take pictures of the Screen so that I don't have to write down codes.

 

[Raise]

I take pictures of the Screen so that I don't have to write down codes.

10-4

 

[realdann]

You can make a test hose to connect to where the intake hose to the turbo connects. A PVC cap drilled and taped to accept a 1/4 air coupler and a rubber sewer hose coupler to clamp the PVC cap to the turbo. Set pressure regulator on air compressor to 10 psi. Couple the air hose to you new test cap and allow the compressor to hold the pressure at 10 psi. Have a spray bottle of soapy water and spray the turbo and all the piping and hose connections to the where it enters the heads. Air leaks will become apparent. Fix them. You can then up test pressure to 15 psi to double check. This will pinpoint just what boots you may need and if the big oring of the turbo charger intake housing is missing or leaking.

I had a turbo charger lock up once. You could drive the truck but it lacked power and it made a lot of smoke.

The intercooling piping from turbo to intercooler passes very close to the power steering hose fitting on the power steering pump and can rub a 1/4'' hole into the intercooler pipe. The aluminum insulation hides the hole. This happened to me.
If you find a hole there it can be welded but you will have to use Muriatic acid to burn off the aluminum coating around the repair site. Use the strong acid and not the environmental kind. Take a chip brush and just brush it on the area and follow all the precautions on the Muriatic acid bottle. The aluminized coating should be ate off in about 15 seconds. Have plenty of water available to rinse off the part. Then weld and paint.
I installed a rubber pad to the pipe and made sure it did not rub when I installed the pipe back in the truck.

 

[Raise]

You can make a test hose to connect to where the intake hose to the turbo connects. A PVC cap drilled and taped to accept a 1/4 air coupler and a rubber sewer hose coupler to clamp the PVC cap to the turbo. Set pressure regulator on air compressor to 10 psi. Couple the air hose to you new test cap and allow the compressor to hold the pressure at 10 psi. Have a spray bottle of soapy water and spray the turbo and all the piping and hose connections to the where it enters the heads. Air leaks will become apparent. Fix them. You can then up test pressure to 15 psi to double check. This will pinpoint just what boots you may need and if the big oring of the turbo charger intake housing is missing or leaking.

I had a turbo charger lock up once. You could drive the truck but it lacked power and it made a lot of smoke.

The intercooling piping from turbo to intercooler passes very close to the power steering hose fitting on the power steering pump and can rub a 1/4'' hole into the intercooler pipe. The aluminum insulation hides the hole. This happened to me.
If you find a hole there it can be welded but you will have to use Muriatic acid to burn off the aluminum coating around the repair site. Use the strong acid and not the environmental kind. Take a chip brush and just brush it on the area and follow all the precautions on the Muriatic acid bottle. The aluminized coating should be ate off in about 15 seconds. Have plenty of water available to rinse off the part. Then weld and paint.
I installed a rubber pad to the pipe and made sure it did not rub when I installed the pipe back in the truck.

Im trying to work in the boost leak test but i have no compressor

 

[Raise]

You can make a test hose to connect to where the intake hose to the turbo connects. A PVC cap drilled and taped to accept a 1/4 air coupler and a rubber sewer hose coupler to clamp the PVC cap to the turbo. Set pressure regulator on air compressor to 10 psi. Couple the air hose to you new test cap and allow the compressor to hold the pressure at 10 psi. Have a spray bottle of soapy water and spray the turbo and all the piping and hose connections to the where it enters the heads. Air leaks will become apparent. Fix them. You can then up test pressure to 15 psi to double check. This will pinpoint just what boots you may need and if the big oring of the turbo charger intake housing is missing or leaking.

I had a turbo charger lock up once. You could drive the truck but it lacked power and it made a lot of smoke.

The intercooling piping from turbo to intercooler passes very close to the power steering hose fitting on the power steering pump and can rub a 1/4'' hole into the intercooler pipe. The aluminum insulation hides the hole. This happened to me.
If you find a hole there it can be welded but you will have to use Muriatic acid to burn off the aluminum coating around the repair site. Use the strong acid and not the environmental kind. Take a chip brush and just brush it on the area and follow all the precautions on the Muriatic acid bottle. The aluminized coating should be ate off in about 15 seconds. Have plenty of water available to rinse off the part. Then weld and paint.
I installed a rubber pad to the pipe and made sure it did not rub when I installed the pipe back in the truck.

i did see a dark mark and a dent in the foil wrap on the intercooler pipe right where the power steering hose sits. So I tore off the foil right at the spot and it doesnt seem like there is a hole. It looks like silver piping underneath, but i will look closer

 

[Qpuller]

View attachment 187910
Well i finally found a tool that could retrieve my DTCs. From what ive researched, the first 2 are benign codes, like a burnt bulb at some point, or something of the sort. However, with the boost/boost gauge/lack of power issues Ive been having, I think there is something to the P1247 code, which is for low boost pressure. Let me start with the gauge. My Autometer boost gauge has sat at -5 since the day i bought the truck. With engine off and at idle, it sits at -5. While cruising, it barely moves at all, maybe 1 psi. Even when i step on it, it does not move more than 1-2 psi. Also, if you were a party to my other thread about having no power when downshifting, this all seems to tie together. The consensus ended up being that the trans was doing what it should, but upon stomping on the pedal and downshifting, the truck goes nowhere. Let me reiterate that this is all without towing, no load at all. Anyway, it seems that the code, gauge reading, and lack of power are all linked. I checked all the turbo boots, and tightened the ones that werent completely tight, with no change. I checked the fitting on the back of the gauge and its tight and the plastic tube looks good. I checked the hose going from the MAP sensor to the turbo y pipe and it looks good, no cuts or holes and feels tight as well. I took a picture of one of the boots and either the up-pipe or down-pipe, not sure which one it is, but it has the blue boot and i did notice the blue boot has what look like a good amount of soot on it, even though the boot clamps are completey tight. Also, the pipe has been wrapped in foil by the previous owner for some reason. Anyway, guys if you could give me your thoughts, i would really appreciate it. The picture is at the top of the thread. Thanks guys

Check for a vacuum leak on the intake, the 7.3 's are known to suck air at the back of the intake. This will cause lack of boost or no boost depending on the severity of the leak. Best bet is to smoke test the tubes and the intake just be sure.. Just a thought.

 

[klhansen]

Check for a vacuum leak on the intake, the 7.3 's are known to suck air at the back of the intake.

Unless you're talking about a non-turbo 7.3, the intake "sucking air" won't reduce boost, as the only place a Powerstroke can suck air is on the intake side of the turbo, and all that might do is bypass unfiltered air into the engine. But anything leaking between the turbo and the intake plenums would cause a reduction in boost.

 

[BlueForester]

Quite an interesting read. Hang with it J. Your doing good. Keep asking questions for clarification when not certain. Your going to learn a lot through the process.

Blue

 

[Raise]

Ok guys, i cleared codes, took it for a good hard drive for about 20-30 minutes, brought it home. Reran codes and all it pulled this time was the P1139, so i assume the other 2 were older codes. Where to check next? Do a boost leak test?