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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 7.3 is hell on a cold start... it may be 55 at night then 70 in the daytime but makes no difference it takes about a 6-7 second turn over and I crindge at the thought of my starter working that hard... what do I need to do to fix this problem? I wouldn't think the weather is cold enough to plug the block heater in. Isn't there a bowl heater?... any advice would be appreciated, she also blows a pound of white smoke right at first when she eventually starts
 

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There is a fuel bowl heater, but it doesn't really do anything to assist with starting. It's only there to keep the filter from waxing up when it's really cold out.

You should check the glow plug system to be sure it's working correctly (see the Hard/No Start link in my signature). You might also check your batteries to be sure your cranking speed is at least 100 rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks man, I have the hardest time figuring out this website... but I'm going to check my relay tomorrow... YouTube says I should get the same reading on both sides.... I just cleaned my battery posts last month and the batteries are fairly new.... hopefully it's something as simple as a relay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Low voltage to the other side of the relay. I'm gonna replace it tomorrow and hope it fixes the issue.. had my buddy turn the key and the relay just makes one loud click.

I believe I've been cold starting this truck since I've had it so hopefully this solves. I'll give more details tomorrow
 

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Time to ohm those glow plugs. Check out the link in Kevin's signature for a tutorial. How many miles on your injectors? I take it you are in Burleson county? It's not cold enough to have issues yet.


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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Correct rt, eot temps were 67 when I hoped in after installing the new relay.... I can't figure out this website to find links... also I dunno about injectors as I got this truck with 242k and it now has 252k... I just use it for hauling but am trying to make it more user friendly.... could be injectors but I'd like to rule everything else out first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
The glow plugs on a 7.3 are under the valve cover???? That seems a little extreme


I've pulled valve covers off gas motors to do pushrods... I heard the 7.3 has wiring going through the valve cover gasket. Can it be re used? Am I over thinking a simple job like I usually do? Lol
 

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The valve cover gasket is reusable. You don't need to pull it to check the glow plugs- just unplug the harness and ohm them. KLHansen (Kevin) has a link in his signature.


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The glow plugs on a 7.3 are under the valve cover???? That seems a little extreme


I've pulled valve covers off gas motors to do pushrods... I heard the 7.3 has wiring going through the valve cover gasket. Can it be re used? Am I over thinking a simple job like I usually do? Lol
Yes. But in a good way. Pretty straightforward to remove the valve covers. Then you have harness connections on the outside of the valve cover gasket and connections under the valve cover at the injectors and glow plugs. Remove the connections from the glow plugs, blow any oil away from the glow plug base before removing. A short piece of hose to go over the GP when threading the new GP into the head makes it easy.

If you have no idea as to when the GPs were last changed, I'd do all 8 with MOTORCRAFTS!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok guys, ya so my truck basically wouldn't start this morning and when it did there was a massive cloud of white smoke.... I called and prices motorcraft glowplugs for 95 and am gonna go ahead and get them.... so my next question.

My buddy almost has me convinced to do a injector upgrade while I'm already in the area.... I was thinking single shot stage 2 swamp injectors? They say daily driving and aggressive towing... are there any aftermarket injectors yall could throw at me? Or things I might need to know?
 

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Stage 2 injectors will require upgrades to your HPOP, turbo, intake, and exhaust. Stick with stage 1 injectors. Both Stage 1 and 2 are single shots which will require re-tuning to drive them correctly. You can get a package deal from DP-Tuner - injectors by Full Force Diesel (Casserly) and the greatest tunes in the world to drive them.

Cold start issues (especially since you and I consider freezing to be anything below 70° F.) can be caused by worn injectors. That's why I asked about the mileage you had on the injectors. If you want to read about that, here's a good article - View attachment PoppetValve.pdf

I do want to add this - I'm about 60 miles away from you as the crow flies, so basically the same temperatures. I can walk out to my truck on the coldest morning we've had this year and crank the truck without waiting for my glow plugs and mine will fire right up. While I think getting your glow plugs changed is a good idea, I don't think its your problem. You really shouldn't need glow plugs until we get into the 30°s.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm betting you're right RT and I'll check that link. My friend says my truck idles rougher then his. He went with swamps 1.5 injectors... but besides the rough idle lope.. they say you can cycle the key on and off for weak glow plugs and that doesn't seem to help my situation.... I'll get the injectors, plus glow plugs... If all is good hopefully I can get by with my old gaskets.. maybe save that $160

I'll keep y'all updated as I go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Split shot or single shot injectors? I don't really care for the idea of getting rid of my edge programmer for a custom ta chip. They say all single shot injectors need to be custom tuned
 

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I'd put that Edge on eBay first thing in the morning. Horrible programs- rough on the transmission. If you really want to keep it, your stuck with split shots.


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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well it's a 6spd... I really just liked the prices on the split shot. They also say the stock hpop works well with stage 2 split shot vs stage 1 single shots... I've already got exhaust and air intake upgrades... eventually going to do the wicked wheel 360 kit on my turbo
 

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How does the truck run once it starts? I'd be willing to bet your injectors are fine.

I'd get my starting system in order before even thinking about doing injectors.

To "replace the injectors while I'm in there" doesn't really make sense since it isn't all that difficult to get everything out of the way to begin with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
It runs pretty good, it's louder then my buddies but I do have a 4in exhaust going back.... here the past couple days I've been setting a timer to the block heater. When the eots are at 100 the thing lights up. Troubles with the car this morning, eot at 68, hesitant but it started like usual.. when the eots drop in the lower 50s is when the truck doesn't want to start... till I save up enough money I guess I'll just plug the heater with my timer.


That link that RT asked me to read did kinda mention alot of the issues tho.
 

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It runs pretty good, it's louder then my buddies but I do have a 4in exhaust going back.... here the past couple days I've been setting a timer to the block heater. When the eots are at 100 the thing lights up. Troubles with the car this morning, eot at 68, hesitant but it started like usual.. when the eots drop in the lower 50s is when the truck doesn't want to start... till I save up enough money I guess I'll just plug the heater with my timer.
Is this occurring after you replaced the GPs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
No sir, I haven't had time to do glow plugs yet. Only the relay. Does it hurt to leave the block heater plugged in for a extended amount of time?
 
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