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This is for my '99 F250 last winter. On one of our few cold days here in S.Texas a little below 20 I had a hell of a time getting my truck started. I waited for the GP light of course and even cycled it a couple of times. When I cranked the engine over it would start just briefly and then die. This went on for about 15 mins. When it did finally start the idle was surging violently for a bit and then smoothed out. I am asking because I am replacing my intercooler boots soon and was thinking about doing glow plugs and harnesses while I am in there. They are the originals from '99, 130k. I have tested the relay and it is good. I do have that big upgraded one to install tho.
I am not sure if I can but I will try and post a video.
Thanks
 

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You can test the resistance of each GP with an Ohm meter. Grom your dsvription and the age of the truck, I would guess you have a few worn out GPs.

I picked up 8 Motorcraft GP for $7/each on Amazon a month ago and in original Ford plastic packaging.

Good choice on the BIG GPR.
 

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BERU is the manufacturer for the Motorcraft GP so those are the brands to buy.

Steer clear of Bosch and other aftermarkets. There are reports of the tips breaking.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the info. I had planned on using the OEM Motorcraft GP's. The originals made it almost 20 years, might as well use them again.

I am not able to figure out how to post a vid of that cold start surging.
 

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Did the cold rough start also have alot of white exhaust out the tailpipe?
 

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Did the cold rough start also have alot of white exhaust out the tailpipe?
Arctic driver, had this happen to me for the first time owning the truck. I live in Phoenix so have never tested the glow plugs. I also didn't own the truck last winter. From what I've read is is most likely the GP's are bad. Is this most likely true? Otherwise runs like a top.

Thanks, Jared
 

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Jared,
If I had rough starting and white smoke that smelled like fuel in colder temperatures (and/or higher elevations) then the first thing I would check would be the GPRelay and the GPs using a multi-meter.

Its important to test the GPR after the engine is cold-soaked overnight.

Find a post by KLHansen and the link is in his Signature: “Hard Start/No Start”. It has the instructions.

Check back here with results and one of the guys can recommend best replacement parts before you buy.

I bought my GPR here:
http://www.dieselorings.com/16-009-white-rodgers-stancor-586-902-monster-glow-plug-relay.html

I bought my GPs from Amazon. Important to stick with Motorcraft brand or BERU (who manufactures the Motorcraft. There is one other vendor that guys have reported luck with but I don’t recall the name...maybe RXDiesel ?

Can someone give experience on RXDiesel?
 

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Thanks a ton A.D.! I went ahead and ordered a Motorcraft GPR from Oreilly's for 80 bucks immediately assuming that's what was bad. Got home and tested it and no voltage at the GP terminal with key turned before starting. Installed the new GPR yesterday and 10.5 volts at the terminal during wait to start. Yourself and the rest of the folks on here are kind in giving your time to help others with your knowledge. Also very classy forum i will add.

Jared
 

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Thanks a ton A.D.! I went ahead and ordered a Motorcraft GPR from Oreilly's for 80 bucks immediately assuming that's what was bad. Got home and tested it and no voltage at the GP terminal with key turned before starting. Installed the new GPR yesterday and 10.5 volts at the terminal during wait to start. Yourself and the rest of the folks on here are kind in giving your time to help others with your knowledge. Also very classy forum i will add.

Jared
$80 for a GPR is nuts. But about par for the course for Motorcraft stuff. You should have just bought a Stancor GPR instead for about $45, and been done with GPR issues for the life of the truck. Also, FYI, you can buy an identical GPR to the Motorcraft one (even down to the International part number on it) from an International Dealer for about $25-30. But those aren't worth the money either. I've had stock GPRs go bad in a matter of 3 months.
 

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Jared,

The good thing about the Motorcraft GPR is the 2-year warranty ! 99% of the time, Motorcraft is best for electrical sensors and compotents...the GPR is a rare exception because the Stancor (White Rogers) is a GPR on steroids.

Check out Autonation White Bear Lake for heavily discounted Motorcraft parts with any future purchases. I have found that their prices are still lower than my local Ford Parts even after shipping costs.

So did you test your GPs also? What were your numbers?

Are you getting quick starts at cold temps now?
 

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klhansen, thanks for the tip on the Stancor. I'll go with that next for sure. I did need to get this thing quick (got it next day) so thats why I went with Oreillys so I could easily return it if necessary.

A.D., I haven't tried starting in our 40 degree mornings yet. Will for sure tomorrow morning and re-post. I haven't tested the GP's knowing nothing remotely close to what happened has happened before and it has been close to 40 degrees previous mornings. I figured not all 8 GP's would just go out at once. And We just moved 2 weeks ago so pulling valve covers is something I'd like to avoid if possible for a little while. Haha
 

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A.D., I haven't tried starting in our 40 degree mornings yet. Will for sure tomorrow morning and re-post. I haven't tested the GP's knowing nothing remotely close to what happened has happened before and it has been close to 40 degrees previous mornings. I figured not all 8 GP's would just go out at once. And We just moved 2 weeks ago so pulling valve covers is something I'd like to avoid if possible for a little while. Haha
If a couple of GPs are bad then you should still be able to start it by plugging in the block heater 2-3 hours before you need it.

You’re probably already familiar with this stuff but I will post it for any new truck owners.

You might want to check the resistance on your block heater before you really need it because its quite common for the 120v cord to suffer damage to the internal copper strands by dangling over the bumper for years. You can’t see the damage because its inside the insulation and so it all looks good when you plug it in but its not actually generating heat. The way to test it is with the engine cold, use your multi-meter on the two prongs and your resistance should be about 15-ohms (I think).

I think I have gotten my last two from Amazon (KATZ brand). The heating element seldom fails so you are just wanting the new cord. I have even just made my own using a length of extension cord spliced into the first 8”-10” of the original cord.
 

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My last truck (stolen) had a block heater with the cord dangling inside front bumper. New 7.3 I don't think, has one. Been under the hood plenty and never seen the cord. Originally an AZ truck then to Utah now back to AZ. Would they not install one from factory when ordered and destination a warm climate? Someone know anything about this?
 

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Back in the day if the dealer did not order the cold weather prep package (or whatever the name for that was) the truck came with the block heater but no cord.
DENNY
 

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My last truck (stolen) had a block heater with the cord dangling inside front bumper. New 7.3 I don't think, has one. Been under the hood plenty and never seen the cord. Originally an AZ truck then to Utah now back to AZ. Would they not install one from factory when ordered and destination a warm climate? Someone know anything about this?
A lot of the truck came with the cord no matter where it was purchased at as new.

Take a look at the oil filter header and see if the cord is coming off of the heater element right above the filter. If not all you would still need is just the cord.
 

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As Bugman suggested above:
A photo of the block heater location and the orange factory cord. The cord easily unplugs from the element once you open spring clip and you can test the two prongs of the element for resistance while still installed.

If you ever have time, could you post a thread on how your truck was stolen? How they got in, etc..

It is one of the fears that I can never fully shake...Lol
 

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Started right up yesterday morning with no smoke. I've seen that thick orange wire, so it's there. I'll have to trace it and see if i can find the plug end.

A.D., it was a 2001 7.3 psd sitting in my driveway when it was stolen overnight. They picked there way in is all I know because they put it up on blocks in the middle of the Indian Reservation and torched it. The fire was so hot it burned anything that wasn't thick steel. They took off the brush guard, all 4 Fuel wheels and Toyo's and I'm sure anything else they could find. All of my baseball equipment (including my 9 yr old twin boys equip.) was in the bed along with all my tools. Really too much to add. It was a relatively valuable truck.

Some tips to all...I put on my, new to me, 7.3 a Revelco which is an advanced kill switch for the vehicle theft pro's, an alarm for the rookies and a club on the steering wheel as a deterrent.

Jared
 

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My truck was stolen twice so far.
First time I was in Fresno with my wife visiting my parents when I got a call on Christmas morning telling me that a bunch of drug dealers were in my house smashing up the place. We immediately left for home, and when we got there, the drug dealers were no longer in the house, but my truck was missing from my driveway. I called the police, and they told me that they had immediately pulled over the truck. They said that three drug dealers had been using the truck all week to deliver drugs, and that they had an unmarked police car following it the entire time. The police gave me a ride to where the truck was pulled over, and I was able to recover the truck. The drug dealers had used a screw driver and hammer to break the ignition lock. I don't know how they got into the truck.


The second time, I had taken the train to work, and had parked the truck in front of the train station. When I got back from work, there was nothing in the parking space where I had parked except a pile of broken glass. I talked with the security guards, and they said that they had neither seen nor heard anything, except that they had also seen the pile of broken glass in the parking lot. I reported the theft to the police, and they were able to recover the stolen truck, minus the $3000 worth of tools and other items that I had in the truck. The thief had broken the driver's side window in order to get into the truck.
 

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Recently saw some ads for a metal piece that you bolt to the door handle inside the door. Apparently it is very easy to get into these trucks using a screwdriver inserted under the door handle. Hers a link to a solution https://jimmijammer.com/JJ description, 103000.htm
 
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