We have a 2000 Ford Diesel Excursion and are considering converting to biodiesel fuel. Are there any special conversions we might have to make before we begin using this product? What type would be best to use...B20 up to B100? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif
Considering biodiesel
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Pump it in and go. The whole point of biodiesel (as opposed to SVO, WVO, etc.) is to make it completely compatible and freely intermixable with, petroleum-based diesel.
If you've been using especially dirty petrodiesel in the past, and use a high concentration of biodiesel now, it could desludge your fuel system fast enough to make your fuel filter clog up sooner than usual. I've not personally had it happen, but it's theoretically possible. You could start out with B20 and change your filter at the regular interval, and see how it looks.
Duncan
If you've been using especially dirty petrodiesel in the past, and use a high concentration of biodiesel now, it could desludge your fuel system fast enough to make your fuel filter clog up sooner than usual. I've not personally had it happen, but it's theoretically possible. You could start out with B20 and change your filter at the regular interval, and see how it looks.
Duncan
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Thanks so much for the reply. I am also considering the "adventure" of making it myself. I am going to take classes and such. What type would be best?
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What type of oil? Just about anything clean will do. When my son and I were making some for his school science project, we had great success with used turkey fryer oil - someone you know probably deep-fries turkeys, and the oil doesn't get too nasty during cooking. Especially if you want to start out small to see how it works, it's much easier to deal with that sort of quantity of used oil.
Duncan
Thanks so much for the reply. I am also considering the "adventure" of making it myself. I am going to take classes and such. What type would be best?
[/ QUOTE ]
What type of oil? Just about anything clean will do. When my son and I were making some for his school science project, we had great success with used turkey fryer oil - someone you know probably deep-fries turkeys, and the oil doesn't get too nasty during cooking. Especially if you want to start out small to see how it works, it's much easier to deal with that sort of quantity of used oil.
Duncan
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We have a 2000 Ford Diesel Excursion and are considering converting to biodiesel fuel. Are there any special conversions we might have to make before we begin using this product? What type would be best to use...B20 up to B100? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif
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It sounds like you are making a very common mistake: You are confusing "biodiesel" with other organic renewable fuels (WVO & SVO/VVO).
Straight/Virgin Vegetable Oils are any cooking oils that have not been used to cook with. Waste Vegetable Oil (including lard & shortening) has been used to cook with & no longer tastes good. These oils can be burned in a diesel engine, but commonly need to be heated prior to going to the fuel pump to make them flow right - hence the conversion necessarry. They also have been used "cut" w/ #2 diesel and or kerosene & Regular Unleaded Gas (not something I'd use in a newer high pressure injection system).
Biodiesel is a vegetable oil base stock that has been processed to remove Free Fatty Acids (FFA's). This is transestrification (the "brewing" process) that uses a lye/alcohol mix (methoxide commonly) to remove the FFA's in the form of glycerol, a non-toxic, biodegradable goo used in soap/cosmetic manufacture & animal feed.
Biodiesel is very close in chemical properties to regular #2 petroleum based diesel, with a higher cetane level and greater grease cutting properties. It is bio-degradable, non-toxic, and a good degreaser, as well as fuel. There is no need to modify a diesel engine to use biodiesel. However, on engines made before about 1997, the biodiiesel will attack the natural rubber hosess & seals in the fuel system. anything after 97 & you should be good to run w/ no worries, othere than it will clean your fuel system of stuff left by #2, so you will probablly need a new fuel filter in few 1000 miles.
We have a 2000 Ford Diesel Excursion and are considering converting to biodiesel fuel. Are there any special conversions we might have to make before we begin using this product? What type would be best to use...B20 up to B100? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif
[/ QUOTE ]
It sounds like you are making a very common mistake: You are confusing "biodiesel" with other organic renewable fuels (WVO & SVO/VVO).
Straight/Virgin Vegetable Oils are any cooking oils that have not been used to cook with. Waste Vegetable Oil (including lard & shortening) has been used to cook with & no longer tastes good. These oils can be burned in a diesel engine, but commonly need to be heated prior to going to the fuel pump to make them flow right - hence the conversion necessarry. They also have been used "cut" w/ #2 diesel and or kerosene & Regular Unleaded Gas (not something I'd use in a newer high pressure injection system).
Biodiesel is a vegetable oil base stock that has been processed to remove Free Fatty Acids (FFA's). This is transestrification (the "brewing" process) that uses a lye/alcohol mix (methoxide commonly) to remove the FFA's in the form of glycerol, a non-toxic, biodegradable goo used in soap/cosmetic manufacture & animal feed.
Biodiesel is very close in chemical properties to regular #2 petroleum based diesel, with a higher cetane level and greater grease cutting properties. It is bio-degradable, non-toxic, and a good degreaser, as well as fuel. There is no need to modify a diesel engine to use biodiesel. However, on engines made before about 1997, the biodiiesel will attack the natural rubber hosess & seals in the fuel system. anything after 97 & you should be good to run w/ no worries, othere than it will clean your fuel system of stuff left by #2, so you will probablly need a new fuel filter in few 1000 miles.
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2,430 Posts
With biodiesel, the only thing you will have to be concerned about is that biodiesel will soften rubber lines and o-rings in the fuel system. But, it takes time for this to occur.
I've put on nearly 10k with biodiesel and no hoses have leaked yet. These hoses can be replaced very cheaply with Viton lines which are resistant to biodiesel.
Biodiesel really makes my old PowerSmoke run so much quieter. I have noticed that in running LSD and ULSD in my truck the thing really rattles a whole lot more and power delivery is very choppy.
Have an extra fuel filter handy too, as stated above. When it gets clogged, pull out the filter wrench, fill the new filter up with fuel and reinstall. Hit the starter and you're good to go.
I've put on nearly 10k with biodiesel and no hoses have leaked yet. These hoses can be replaced very cheaply with Viton lines which are resistant to biodiesel.
Biodiesel really makes my old PowerSmoke run so much quieter. I have noticed that in running LSD and ULSD in my truck the thing really rattles a whole lot more and power delivery is very choppy.
Have an extra fuel filter handy too, as stated above. When it gets clogged, pull out the filter wrench, fill the new filter up with fuel and reinstall. Hit the starter and you're good to go.
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