[go_buffs]

I’ve read through several threads to plan for my flush. Here’s a list of what I did simply for reference and/or feedback.

Purchased:
4 gallons of Zerex EL EC-1 Coolant ($25/gal @ Napa)
2 quarts of Motorcraft VC-9 Cleaner ($22/qt @ dealer)
2 quarts of Simple Green ($4/qt @ Walmart)
40 gallons of Distilled Water ($0.85/gal at Walmart)

Steps:
1. Drained system at radiator plug, lower radiator hose and driver’s side block plug.
2. Added 2 quarts of VC-9 and about 3 gallons distilled water. ** I did not remove the thermostat as it was nearly 100-degrees out in Atlanta and after each refill step I drove 15+ minutes at highway speeds so I’m sure the thermostat was open. I also had the heater running on high. Yes, Atlanta summer with the heater blasting, very uncomfortable drives.
3. Drained system at radiator plug, lower radiator hose and driver’s side block plug. ** comment: the drained coolant was dark, i.e black. ** hint for removing the block plug when hot: use a hex bit on a long 3/8 ratchet drive extension and keep the cap on the degas reservoir until after the plug is removed. Very little hot coolant will drain until the pressure is relieved.
4. Added 4 gallons of distilled water and repeated 15 min drive.
5. Repeated draining at all three locations.
6. Added 2 quarts simple green and about 3 gallons distilled water and repeated 15 min drive.
7. Repeated draining at all three locations.
8. Added 4 gallons distilled water and drive.
9. Repeated steps 7 and 8 until the drained water was clear. This took 7 post-simple green flushes.
10. Added 3.5 gallons Zerex coolant and topped off with distilled water.

I already had a DieselSite Coolant Filter and now I’m pretty confident that I cleaned out any sludge/sand/oil.

 

[2 Stroker]

Do you have gauges to check EOT-ECT because i would never do a flush without knowing these deltas. That coolant flush may or may not do the job how many miles on it important. This is the flush most do takes about 12hrs once you start you do not want to stop but it is your truck.



This should help you understand the reason to ditch the Gold junk it can't take the heat. Gauges are a must to do this need to know EOT-ECT
Replaced oil cooler still difference in temps - Page 21 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

Flushing and cleaning the 6.0

Restore is for cleaning out any silicate goo. VC-9 is for cleaning out iron and scale. Restore Plus is the same as VC-9 and cheaper.

To flush drain the coolant by removing the lower radiator hose from the radiator, and removing the drain plug from the driver side of the block. There is a drain plug on the passenger side also but you have to remove the starter to get to it. I don't bother with that one.
I also highly recommend you pull the thermostat out on your first drain and put the housing back without the thermostat. It only takes about 10 minutes and will save you 2.5 hrs or so in doing this whole procedure.

Ok now put the lower hose back on and the drain plug back in the block if you removed it. This is the procedure you will use each time to drain the system, except you will not touch the thermostat again until you're finished the whole procedure. Make sure that you set your heater to high while doing this to flush out the heater core as well.

Fill the cooling system with distilled water, start the truck and let the water circulate for 5 minutes. (if you did not remove the thermostat you must run the truck until the thermostat opens + 5 minutes to circulate. This takes 15 to 20 minutes each cycle and is why you should just remove the thermostat) Stop the engine. Drain the system and repeat the flush.

Now add at least 1/2 gallon of Restore and fill with distilled water. I used cardboard in front of the radiator because you have to get to 185* 190* for these products to work. Drive truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes just before you get back from your drive remove the cardboard this will help in the cool down same on the Restore+ flush. Drain and flush 3 or 4 times. or tell clean

Add 2qts VC-9 or 1/2gal of Restore Plus, top with distilled water, and drive the truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes. Now drain and flush until flush water comes out clear and clean. When you get clean flush water, flush 3 more times using distilled water while draining the block.

After your final distilled water drain it is time to put the thermostat back in. I recommend you install a new thermostat at this point. They are only $20 or so and it is good maintenance procedure to do so. Fill with 3.5 or 4 gals of ELC concentrated coolant and top off with distilled water. Drive the truck or let run for a while topping off with distilled water. Check the truck over the next few days and top up as required while any air left in the system works its way out.

Keep some 50/50 ELC on hand to use to top off the cooling system from here out and you are good to go.

new t/stat from Ford it should all come together (housing-t/stat-o-ring) in a box. The part number is RT-1169

Here is the Restore Product from Cummins dealer
http://www.fleetguard.com/pdfs/produ...LI33024-GB.pdf
2 stroker:ford:

 

[rock_doctor]

What is the maintenance on the newly installed ELC coolant. Do nitrate levels need to be maintained as if it were the original gold (i.e. same concentration)? I need to convert my X (like sometime in the next two weeks) but am a little foggy about down the road maintenance. Thanks.

 

[2 Stroker]

What is the maintenance on the newly installed ELC coolant. Do nitrate levels need to be maintained as if it were the original gold (i.e. same concentration)? I need to convert my X (like sometime in the next two weeks) but am a little foggy about down the road maintenance. Thanks.

The ELC coolant is not like the Ford Gold Junk most are the same this is what i used. Just think no more test strips.

Delo Extended Life Coolant/Antifreezeconcentrate is ethylene glycol based and contains Chevron`s patented carboxylate technology. This product does not contain conventional inhibitors like silicates, nitrates, amines, phosphates or borates. Delo ELC concentrate can be used for initial fill or top up but it must diluted. It should be used full strength for freeze point adjustment.
Delo Extender should be added to Delo ELC at 500,000 miles/10,000 hours/4 years to reach a coolant service life of 1,000,000 miles/20,000 hours/8 years. The amount of Extender needed is based on the volume of the cooling system. Extender should only be added once during the service life of Delo ELC.
2 stroker:ford:

 

[rock_doctor]

???? Are you saying the ELCs do not have cavitation issues? I also have a 6.4, which some have had serious cavitation issues with the front cover. Are you telling me the cavitation is due to the coolant cooling ford is using? Don't get me wrong i know how cavitation works and what causes it but this is the first i have heard of the ELCs reducing the cavitation potential. If it is then i am converting both trucks now even though the 6.4 is still under the 3/36..

thanks

 

[bismic]

go buffs - if you had oil in the coolant, be sure to replace ALL of the hoses.

I am aware of two cases where the ELC coolant turned to mud. I do not know the specifics, but I would be VERY leary of going more than 100k miles on ELC EC1 coolant (I don't care what they claim).

I also would like to know how the ELC coolant is better at cavitation prevention than a silicate formula (if it really is better).

 

[rock_doctor]

The new coolant in the post 2011 diesels is an ELC (right?) and i wonder if i convert from the gold to the new ford red would they still have warranty issues (I know you can't really answer this...)? My 08 has the gold in it and i would like to change it out but the truck only has 6k miles on the clock and is still under all of the warranties.

I guess this is the main reason i haven't made the jump yet. Everything about these trucks are expensive and to make a mistake would be very expensive. I need to know what the maintenance of the ELC is once i convert it over. I am assuming that nitrates are still a requirement otherwise they would not be required in so many other Diesel engines. I remember when ford went from green to gold. It took them a couple years but they did once and for all come out and say it was ok to convert from green to gold. I am hoping they do the same to go from gold to red (or pink or what ever color it is now)...