What is the maintenance on the newly installed ELC coolant. Do nitrate levels need to be maintained as if it were the original gold (i.e. same concentration)? I need to convert my X (like sometime in the next two weeks) but am a little foggy about down the road maintenance. Thanks.
Coolant Flush
I’ve read through several threads to plan for my flush. Here’s a list of what I did simply for reference and/or feedback.
Purchased:
4 gallons of Zerex EL EC-1 Coolant ($25/gal @ Napa)
2 quarts of Motorcraft VC-9 Cleaner ($22/qt @ dealer)
2 quarts of Simple Green ($4/qt @ Walmart)
40 gallons of Distilled Water ($0.85/gal at Walmart)
Steps:
1. Drained system at radiator plug, lower radiator hose and driver’s side block plug.
2. Added 2 quarts of VC-9 and about 3 gallons distilled water. ** I did not remove the thermostat as it was nearly 100-degrees out in Atlanta and after each refill step I drove 15+ minutes at highway speeds so I’m sure the thermostat was open. I also had the heater running on high. Yes, Atlanta summer with the heater blasting, very uncomfortable drives.
3. Drained system at radiator plug, lower radiator hose and driver’s side block plug. ** comment: the drained coolant was dark, i.e black. ** hint for removing the block plug when hot: use a hex bit on a long 3/8 ratchet drive extension and keep the cap on the degas reservoir until after the plug is removed. Very little hot coolant will drain until the pressure is relieved.
4. Added 4 gallons of distilled water and repeated 15 min drive.
5. Repeated draining at all three locations.
6. Added 2 quarts simple green and about 3 gallons distilled water and repeated 15 min drive.
7. Repeated draining at all three locations.
8. Added 4 gallons distilled water and drive.
9. Repeated steps 7 and 8 until the drained water was clear. This took 7 post-simple green flushes.
10. Added 3.5 gallons Zerex coolant and topped off with distilled water.
I already had a DieselSite Coolant Filter and now I’m pretty confident that I cleaned out any sludge/sand/oil.
Purchased:
4 gallons of Zerex EL EC-1 Coolant ($25/gal @ Napa)
2 quarts of Motorcraft VC-9 Cleaner ($22/qt @ dealer)
2 quarts of Simple Green ($4/qt @ Walmart)
40 gallons of Distilled Water ($0.85/gal at Walmart)
Steps:
1. Drained system at radiator plug, lower radiator hose and driver’s side block plug.
2. Added 2 quarts of VC-9 and about 3 gallons distilled water. ** I did not remove the thermostat as it was nearly 100-degrees out in Atlanta and after each refill step I drove 15+ minutes at highway speeds so I’m sure the thermostat was open. I also had the heater running on high. Yes, Atlanta summer with the heater blasting, very uncomfortable drives.
3. Drained system at radiator plug, lower radiator hose and driver’s side block plug. ** comment: the drained coolant was dark, i.e black. ** hint for removing the block plug when hot: use a hex bit on a long 3/8 ratchet drive extension and keep the cap on the degas reservoir until after the plug is removed. Very little hot coolant will drain until the pressure is relieved.
4. Added 4 gallons of distilled water and repeated 15 min drive.
5. Repeated draining at all three locations.
6. Added 2 quarts simple green and about 3 gallons distilled water and repeated 15 min drive.
7. Repeated draining at all three locations.
8. Added 4 gallons distilled water and drive.
9. Repeated steps 7 and 8 until the drained water was clear. This took 7 post-simple green flushes.
10. Added 3.5 gallons Zerex coolant and topped off with distilled water.
I already had a DieselSite Coolant Filter and now I’m pretty confident that I cleaned out any sludge/sand/oil.
1 - 3 of 7 Posts
???? Are you saying the ELCs do not have cavitation issues? I also have a 6.4, which some have had serious cavitation issues with the front cover. Are you telling me the cavitation is due to the coolant cooling ford is using? Don't get me wrong i know how cavitation works and what causes it but this is the first i have heard of the ELCs reducing the cavitation potential. If it is then i am converting both trucks now even though the 6.4 is still under the 3/36..
thanks
thanks
The new coolant in the post 2011 diesels is an ELC (right?) and i wonder if i convert from the gold to the new ford red would they still have warranty issues (I know you can't really answer this...)? My 08 has the gold in it and i would like to change it out but the truck only has 6k miles on the clock and is still under all of the warranties.
I guess this is the main reason i haven't made the jump yet. Everything about these trucks are expensive and to make a mistake would be very expensive. I need to know what the maintenance of the ELC is once i convert it over. I am assuming that nitrates are still a requirement otherwise they would not be required in so many other Diesel engines. I remember when ford went from green to gold. It took them a couple years but they did once and for all come out and say it was ok to convert from green to gold. I am hoping they do the same to go from gold to red (or pink or what ever color it is now)...
I guess this is the main reason i haven't made the jump yet. Everything about these trucks are expensive and to make a mistake would be very expensive. I need to know what the maintenance of the ELC is once i convert it over. I am assuming that nitrates are still a requirement otherwise they would not be required in so many other Diesel engines. I remember when ford went from green to gold. It took them a couple years but they did once and for all come out and say it was ok to convert from green to gold. I am hoping they do the same to go from gold to red (or pink or what ever color it is now)...
1 - 3 of 7 Posts
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