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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a 2004 6.0 Excursion. Alternator done, clutch fan, EGR leak repaired, injectors, FICM, and probably some other things. It has 120,000 miles. After the clutch fan three or fours days later the engine was smoking coolant. Coolant was changed with clutch fan. Guy I was using went out of business very familiar with these engines. So I need another mechanic around Long Island NY if you know one. So I had no where to take it so I filled about gallon of water and some coolant every day for 30 mile trip sometimes just water. Not sure how much anti-freeze is left vs. plain water. So after two weeks of this the coolant stopped dropping:confused::confused::confused::confused: Oil is fine with no coolant in it or none I can see without Blackstone test. Truck runs fine no smoke or coolant loss for two weeks or more. *** is wrong? How does it just stop leaking. Initially though I warped the heads because it got hot check engine light came on briefly before it was repaired as I drove it to shop.

Open for clues I can check or tell a mechanic so I am not on a fishing expedition with someone. Thanks in advance.

PS easiest way to drain coolant to add anti-freeze to bring it up to proper ratio? What type should I buy I read not Ford stuff?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
OK thanks. When testing coolant for freeze point how long does it take to circulate properly to the coolant overflow tank for a proper reading?
 

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Any Cat EC1 rated coolant is what you want. I used Prestone that I got from an IH dealer, but any ELC coolant that meets the EC1 spec is fine.
 

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If you change to an EC-1 rated coolant you will HAVE to do several clean water flushes followed by a distilled water flush before putting the EC-1 antifreeze in, very important. You may or may not want to use a chemical, actually 2 to flush, as the chemical can cause problems of it's own such as loosening enough sediment to plug oil cooler. I used both chemicals and installed a coolant filter and ran for a month and then replaced oil cooler that was already on its way out. If you search the forums you will find several write ups on how to properly flush your cooling system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
put prestone in today and drove 30 miles no smoke so far no clue how it could stop leaking fluid.:SM030::icon_confused::eek3: 3.5 gallons of prestone had clutch fan installed and they charged for a flush. What kind it was I have no clue doubt much except radiator draining. 100 bucks makes me think not very though.
 

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Was it leaking coolant? Like leaving a puddle on the ground? Or was it just disappearing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
disappearing out exhaust. I think now after 65 miles it has started it again when I stopped at bank few blocks from home whitish smoke when idling. To short a time to see coolant loss in tank.
 

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Does it still have an EGR cooler on the engine?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
yes it does. EGR was replaced because it was leaking coolant last winter

had clutch fan put in also then it started smoking a week later. thanks

thought may be I warped the heads or melted something. Check engine light was never on for more than seconds and never pegged the gauge. Why no loss if only water? thanks for any advice
 

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I'd have the EGR cooler tested and see if its leaking again. What you're describing is either a bad EGR cooler or a blown HG. If its the cooler I'd just delete it if you can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
why no loss of coolant when it's water is what puzzles me. How do you test if it is head gasket pressurize it some how? Does it pass emissions with EGR delete? Seems to be less noticeable when it warns up would that indicate head gasket? No feeling of loss of power or idling quality. When it ran hot is the EGR susceptible to any damage? EGR seemed to just leak when cold before I had it fixed not when parked hot. when engine cooled it dripped.

edit went out this morning for a short ride not up to temp and there was a hissing sound could that be the EGR? I think the guy replaced the huse last time to stop the leak.
 

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The water vs. coolant thing may be entirely incidental. HG leaks start small, and can leak only under certain conditions at first. As they progress they get worse and eventually leak all the time.

You wold only fail a visual check for emissions. The EGR system is not active at idle. The only place I know where they would know you have an EGR cooler delete is CA.

You can tee a pressure gauge into one of the liens going to the degas bottle and watch the pressure as you drive. If the pressure in the system rises with throttle input and exceeds 16psi then you have a leaking HG.
 

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Check your degas bottle. Had a friend just do the egr delete only to find out his coolant loss was due to a crack in the degas bottle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
got it to a shop price is bit over two grand. Any questions I should ask like does it include oil cooler like some kits I see out there? What would be an acceptable warranty on the work? Said he was pretty sure it's not the head gaskets. I want to be 100% sure how do they test for that pressurize the cooling system? Started it once and saw fluid / coolant coming from turbo area like a cup full after it sat a while. Anything else to do while in there? Thanks!
 

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What exactly are they doing for $2,000? I'd want a specific list of parts and procedures. They should be able to furnish you with a written estimate. I need to know what they are planning to do to be able to say whether or not I consider it exorbitant or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
1425 labor and 620 for EGR cooler and gaskets. said stainless steel tube one. No clue on brand. Now I see kits with oil cooler also like Sinister. Odds of that going bad? Should it be replaced while in there? thanks
 

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You're going to have to remove the intake to do an EGR cooler. Were it up to me I would just delete the cooler rather than replace it. The only state I see that being an issue in is CA. IPR makes a really nice delete.

If you are going to go with a new cooler, BPD is the only way I would go. They have a lifetime warranty.

As for the OC, if you don't have a coolant filter on the truck I'd be very worried about the OC. If there isn't a filter then I wouldn't just replace the OC, you need to install a filter, get it through its first two changes, then flush the system, and then swap the OC. Not doing that pretty much guarantees that you'll just plug the new one up. I would only use a Ford OC. There are others out there that have been shown to have at best mixed results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
EGR cooler and oil cooler were replaced at Precision Diesel on Long Island. So far so good with few other small items it was about 2500 with tax. Stainless tubed cooler not sure what brand. Told ne lifetime warranty on cooler. Thanks for all the help.
 
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