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okay, I have a 2003 6.0.. studs, EGR delete, Airaid intake, Magneflow 4" turbo back duals, Juice tuner..

problem I am having is the degas cap is popping off when towing my trailer 9,000# up hills.. I changed the cap to an OEM one and it happened again.. I am not sure if my fan is actually coming on or not, the temp gauge never climbs much about midrange when I am pulling weight..

I want to install a coolant pressure gauge on my dash but I am not fond of running a hose from the tank inside my cab.. Does someone have what they used to do this and how it gets wired up? Any help would be appreciated.. Also is there a way to test my fan clutch to see if it works?
 

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If more than one cap is popping off, then it is more than likely the degass bottle itself. An aftermarket cap like Stant is better than the stock caps. As far as the fan, it will usually set a soft code if there is an issue. Here is the wiring and ohm checks for the fan.

Pin 1: FANSS. Red/Orange on the engine side, White on the fan side.
Pin 2: Signal return. Brown/pink on the engine side, Black on the fan side.
Pin 3: Open
Pin 4: Solenoid ground. Dk Blue on the engine side, Green on the fan side.
Pin 5: Solenoid power. Red on the engine side, Red on the fan side.
Pin 6: VBPower. Brown/lt Green on the engine side, Orange on the fan side.

So-

Pin 4 to pin 5 = 6.9 Ohm
Pin 6 to pin 2 = 5.45 MOhm
Pin 6 to pin 1 = 7.38 MOhm.

You can ground pin 4, the one with the blue wire on one side and green one the other to command the fan to fully engage. You do not disconnect the plug, just pin in to one side with a probe connected to a ground source. If you do this, make sure you give the fan time to respond. It may take a minute or so depending on temperature for the fan to engage. Also doing this will set a P0480 soft code, which is no big deal. Mine is grounded through a switch so I can command the fan on at will. Great for long hills and idling for longer periods with the AC on.
 
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