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Discussion Starter #1
Just replaced the water pump on my 2001 powerstroke all went well broke the coolant sensor ran to the parts store got another now started up let it run temp gauge never moved heater started blowing hot gauge still didn't move got another sensor still the same felt the upper and lower hoses and they were warm but not as warm as the heater hoses not sure what to do thanks in advance for your help.
 

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It takes quite some time to warm a 7.3 at idle. The part store sending units rarely work on our trucks. You need to get a genuine Motorcraft sending unit. Did you change the thermostat?


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Have you driven it much since refilling with coolant? There can be some air pockets in the system.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the info I'll order sending unit tomorrow and yes I replaced the thermostat with a parts store brand probably just order one from Ford thanks again I'll update if and when I get it going
 

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I think you may have air trapped in the system. Try running without the degas cap on for a few minutes and look to see if the level drops. You could also try disconnecting the upper radiator hose and see if you are getting any flow out of it while it is running.
 

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I think you may have air trapped in the system. Try running without the degas cap on for a few minutes and look to see if the level drops. You could also try disconnecting the upper radiator hose and see if you are getting any flow out of it while it is running.
Good tricks.
Another is to repeatedly squeeze the upper radiator hose while engine is running and you should feel pressure.
My favorite trick is to go drive up and down steep mountain roads to get rid of air pockets...ofcourse, this works much better in CO than FL.

Did you actually see the coolant sensor break? Or it just quit working? Maybe worth looking at the pigtail connection closer.

Also, did you get the serpentine belt wrapped properly around the pulleys. Back when I used to trust my memory, I reinstalled the serp belt only to realize after that I installed it wrong around a couple pulleys.

Last thought, did you do anything with your thermostat during your waterpump replacement?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes I saw it laying in two pieces on the shop floor lol and me cussing ranting crying so bought the part store sensor no good realized today the Ford place sold me engine oil temp sensor *** and I have a new Ford thermostat my question being (now that my funds are low) can I install a numerical gauge from autometer ( have one here I bought for my feed truck) or do I need this sending unit the stealership said it would run me 90 bucks Amazon said 50 to 60 any opinions
 

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Genuine Motorcraft is $45 at Rockauto and you can get 5% off that if you google a coupon code. Yes, you can put the Autometer temp gauge in. There is an extra port in the water pump. That’s where I have mine.


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Just verified no flow from the water pump serpentine belt installed correctly so I'll be returning the pump 😵
The impeller and the belt pulley share the same shaft, don’t they?

Is the pulley loose?

I hope you can salvage the coolant atleast, what a pain.
 

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Really not much to a water pump as long as the impellors are not missing, interesting why its not flowing? What brand is it?
 

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If you have not torn into it yet, lets think about it a bit more.

How did you determine the waterpump is not working?

Is your degas bottle filled with coolant?

Does the upper radiator hose feel full of coolant when you squeeze several times?

Does the upper radiator hose get hot after the engine runs a bit?

I hate to see you pull off the waterpump if unneeded.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
No the upper radiator hose would not get warm after driving it roughly 20 minutes and the degass bottle never had to have coolant added I would think that if the pump was pumping correctly then the air would be pushed out and I would need to add coolant I drove the truck a few short drives since I've installed the new pump and never had to add coolant I was able to install the thermostat without losing much coolant and still it hasn't emptied the degass bottle it's a murry I should have went to Ford I guess I forgot the lower rad. hose wasn't hot either
 

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Are you sure you got the long stem thermostat? Do you have the brand and part number of the one you got? Put it in spring side towards the motor?
 

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No the upper radiator hose would not get warm after driving it roughly 20 minutes and the degass bottle never had to have coolant added I would think that if the pump was pumping correctly then the air would be pushed out and I would need to add coolant I drove the truck a few short drives since I've installed the new pump and never had to add coolant I was able to install the thermostat without losing much coolant and still it hasn't emptied the degass bottle it's a murry I should have went to Ford I guess I forgot the lower rad. hose wasn't hot either
Good info.

As RT mentions above.
The wrong t-stat or a stuck open t-stat could result in running very cold.

These coolant systems are designed for towing, ofcourse, and run on a small portion of their capacity wnen the engine is not working hard. A bad t-stat would open all that extra cooling capacity and the engine operating temp would stay cold.

This is one possibility.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ok I'll Orient the spring side towards the block it is a new tstat from Ford it looks to be identical but who knows all I can say is it only took me 40 minutes to remove the pump this time practice makes perfect thanks for the help all ideas were appreciated hopefully it will be going this weekend then on to other repairs momma said it's gotta last me
 

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Here is a photo to show the difference between the correct long t-stat vs incorrect short (Ignore the part numbers since I don’t know their source).
 

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