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Discussion Starter #21
There was alot of clearance between the impeller and body of the water pump the system would not pressure up installed new pump less than half the clearance the other had installing a second temp gauge to ensure I do not damage the engine plus I love back up gauges thank you for the help hopefully I can return the it in the future
 

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You can drive a 7.3 easy to moderate in cooler temps and not have the thermostat open and feel upper hose get warm in 20 minutes. Does the heater get warm? Are the heater hoses on RH valve cover one hot and the other warm after 10 minutes of driving? Brand new water pump not pumping would only happen if the impeller fell off. You can leave it full of coolant and take belt off and turn water pump using the cooling fan. If it is pumping there will be a lot of resistance. The bent paddle (my words) impeller style that all 7.3 pumps I have ever installed had would be hard to get on that pump wrong and it not leak as it is part of the seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I took the pump off just to investigate there did not seem to be any issues reinstalled it all new seals installed a auxiliary Gage in the extra port in the process of wiring the gauge have a neighbor going to bring is air lift over and vacuum the air out does the coolant sensor control anything other than the gauge on the dash?
 

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You can drive a 7.3 easy to moderate in cooler temps and not have the thermostat open and feel upper hose get warm in 20 minutes.
Now you have me wanting to test this when I get back to my trucks before I disagree. 😉

What are the cooler temps I should drive in?
 

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What is the outside temp when you take the test drive? I can drive 15 minutes to work, around town roads, and the coolant gauge will not move if it is 20 degrees outside.
 

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Having recently replaced a water pump on a 2000 7.3L, I found that filling the system as much as possible before installing the heater hose on top of the water pump, and before connecting the upper radiator hose to the radiator, provides ample means for air to escape while getting the entire water jacket in the block full of coolant, right up until the point when coolant starts bubbling out of the water pump heater hose stand pipe.

At that point, connect the heater hose, then connect the top radiator hose to the radiator, and proceed with continuing the fill. Then run the engine with the heater on to finish the bleed of the heater core and the top third of the radiator core. Doing the pre fill with the heater core hose on the water pump disconnected at first in order to fill up the lower half of the cooling system really accelerates the bleeding process and ensures no air is anywhere in the water jacket of the block.
 

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"Ok I'll Orient the spring side towards the block it is a new tstat from Ford it looks to be identical "




Looking back at his previous posts I think he had the T-Stat in backwards!
 

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Looking back, I think that he had a defective water pump that he replaced with a good one.
 

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Looking back, I think that he had a defective water pump that he replaced with a good one.
Not a problem you hear of often.

What was the brand?
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I replaced the water pump the fins on the new pump are a lot closer to the body of the pump than the one I replaced didn't get a exact measurment but visually I could see the difference everything is great now Murray was the brand
 
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