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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, many time reader, first time posting.

I have a problem with my 03 f250 6.0.
It has been running fine, just running hot while towing. I usually monitor the temps through my edge insight to be sure not to overdo it in the 100+ summer.

That being said, she was running fine, not towing or anything, went to town, shut her off and now a crank no start contition.

I just replaced both batteries as a precaution, they were old anyway.

FICM voltage is 49.5 so that's good
FICM reading 1 on crank so that's good
Battery voltage good.
Icp pressure is between 1000-2000 cranking so that's good.
IPR % is 14 KOEO and when I crank it goes to 80, then 50, then 40 within a matter of seconds.

So, that leads me to believe I need a new IPR valve but i want to discuss this with you guys. I had someone tell me that I needed to 'check the oil cooler and oil cooler screen's
He was saying that it may be an underlying issue with the ipr valve, just throwing that out there for comment on as well.

Thanks In Advance
 

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Please post the ICP sensor voltage at KOEO and when cranking. The ICP pressure values might not be actual, the PCM might be using an inferred value.

A leak in the high pressure oil system will also behave as you described.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok, I'll have to reinstall the ficm, intake, degas and reconnect batteries tomorrow and do that. I only checked the voltage KOEO and it was like .23 or .24 if I remember correctly. I did not check that/remember what it was while cranking.

Wish i had waited to start taking things apart but at least it's a very quick bit to put it back lol.
 

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You don't have to install the FICM, or even the air intake (but the degas bottle does need to be reconnected) for a 15 second crank.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I re connected my battery and now my edge insight is not working so I cant read the ICP voltage yet.

It turns on but will not let me press ANY buttons on the screen. ***, now I will call edge customer service as I have tried to plug in and out and reset and still nothing. It was working yesterday :/

Will post once working and tested
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
So apparently edge does not support this product or warranty any longer which I think is b/s since I I alot of money for it.

So, I need to get a new device that will get all my PID's.

I also need to be able to view while driving, like in dash or on windshield.
Should I just get the Insight 3?

Any recommendations?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So I contacted edge tech support and Moses helped me out. He extended my warranty (it has been expired for 3 yrs) and told me to send the unit in and they will cover it.

Guess I'm keeping the CTS2,
But will be a week before i get it back so... on hold

Bismic, I'll post back once I have the reading you wanted.
 

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That indicates that the ICP sensor is actually registering enough pressure for the engine to start. I do not think that the IPR valve is the no-start issue.

What rpms are you getting when cranking?
Can you get the "Fuel Pulse Width" value and the "5-volt reference voltage" readings when cranking?

Also, be aware that there is more that can go wrong with the FICM than the power board (ie all the 48 volt reading tells you is that the power board is probably ok).
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have the batteries on a quick charge then I'll get those readings and post.
Thanks again I really appreciate the diagnostic help.
 

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Sorry to "dribble in" the help, but I like doing the free/easy tests first.

Please add "Cam/Crank sync" and "FICM sync" to the data to look for when cranking. They should both turn from "0" to "1" when cranking.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
RPM IS 90! ***
Inj control psi >1500
Inj pulse width 1.24MS
Inj power 50.7
Ficm 49.5V
Ficm sync 1
Icp v .02 koeo
Icp v 1.8 crank
Ipr 85% then to 55% within 2 sec of crank

I dont see cam or crank sync
 

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Your engine won't start without 150 rpm cranking.

First step I would do is to load test each battery individually (charge them again first), and please don't assume that batteries are good because the resting voltage is good.

If you do not have excessive smoke when the engine finally starts, then I am going to assume that you don't have anything dumping liquid into a cylinder (ie no fuel or coolant).

Sometimes a failed A/C compressor drags down the crank. For that possible issue, you need to remove the belt to see if that gives you significantly better cranking speed, and an engine start.

Then you could always have a weak starter. Always check the starter (+) terminal and the main battery ground on the front of the block if you begin to suspect the starter.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok, I will go through all of this and post back.
I did have a problem with my AC so that could be a big part of the problem.

Both batteries are brand new, that's the first thing i did was purchase 2 new ones.
 

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I have bought a bad, brand new, battery before. Probably rare, but it can happen.

FICM LPower (logic power) and FICM VPower (vehicle power) would be good to see when cranking also. Since you have a good Fuel Pulse Width value, I think the FICM is working fine, but would be looking at these two voltages as an indication of system voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
I took off the serpentine belt and the truck fired right up...

AC compressor locked up.

This whole time I was over thinking it and never once did I think about my compressor.

Thanks so much for your help with troubleshooting this!!
now the fun part of replacing this compressor.

I will still test the batteries just to be sure I haven't messed em up doing all the troubleshooting.

I'll be in touch once I have done the job.

Anything you can think of looking at or replacing/upgrading while I'm down there?
 

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Glad to help, and glad you identified the issue.

Be sure to replace the A/C orifice tube.
 

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I wouldn't unless an inspection indicates something may be "compromised".
 
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