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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
`95 1-ton 4WD 5-speed

I took my front drive shaft out to see what all the noise was about - the ball joint in the center of the CV joint is separated. It's almost dark outside so I didn't go any further into it. The u-joints are tight.

I've never been into a cv joint - what's involved in fixing this problem?

Also, the seal on the transfer case is leaking very slightly. Is it a major deal to pull the yoke and replace the seal?

I need this truck back in operation for the next desert blizzard - scheduled for next week. Thanks
 

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It's common to refer to that as a CV, but it's really a DC joint (double Cardan), and it's a PAIN to rebuild.



I've done several (for myself & professionally), and it usually takes 2 or 3 re-rebuilds to get it right. If you can find a local driveshaft specialist who uses Spicer parts, pay him whatever he wants.



If not, price a complete driveshaft before tearing into that one. Mine came from JBG, but it took them several tries to get me the right one, and even it had to be replaced a few months later.



If you're talking about the front t-case output yoke - it usually takes a MANLY breaker bar & stay tool to break the nut.



But before you dive into that, make SURE it's not a leak from somewhere else dripping & blowing onto that yoke.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
O'Reilley's sells a remanufactured driveshaft with a lifetime warrany for $310.

If it ever does go bad, it's a 20 minute job to r&r it. $310 is a bargain.
 

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I bought one from Advance. Their remanufacturer went to the trouble of spray-painting it gunmetal gray. That was it - the entire remanufacturing process. They didn't grease the U-joints, or even work them to hear the squeaking. O'Reilly's price & PN was exactly the same, which made/makes me think they buy driveshafts from the same supplier. I chose Advance because their warranty was SLIGHTLY better, and they gave me a slight discount.



At least all the ones I got through JBG were NEW. I know because they were all bare steel when they arrived - no paint or residue on the tubing, welds, seals, or U-joints. I painted this one:



But don't think a brief R&R time guarantees it'll be a bargain. That one only took minutes to remove after it broke apart. Lucky for me it happened at nearly 0MPH because neither JBG nor the supplier would have paid for incidental damage (to the truck) or consequential damage (to anyone else).



But it only took a little discussion to get them to send a free replacement & a return label. And that one has held up fine for right at a year now, including some rough use (& maybe some ABuse).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Do you have a link for JBG?

The shaft came in 4" too long, but it looked plenty good.

We have a shaft for a '94 on order, but I haven't seen it yet. The `94 shaft is $60 less expensive.
 

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Find a local driveline shop to rebuild the DC joint. They really aren't that bad to do, despite what has been said regarding that. I can knock one out in under an hour after rebuilding them a couple of times.

There's no need to replace the entire driveshaft. That's just throwing out the baby with the bath water.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The second driveshaft that came in was only 1 1/2 inches too long.

I got a refund and have taken the shaft to a driveline shop. He (the machinist) wasn't able to give me a firm price on the repair since he couldn't tell how much damage there was to the "H". And in his words "From a machinists point of view, Neapco (u-joints) hold the tightest tolerances that I've seen - they're the only brand I'll use".

So we'll see. I'll post back later.
 

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Machinist said:
...Neapco (u-joints) hold the tightest tolerances that I've seen - they're the only brand I'll use".
Neapco said:
http://www.neapco.com/index.php/about-neapco/overview-corporate

Neapco offers distinct advantages to automotive, commercial truck, off-highway, agricultural, construction and industrial customers with our driveline system and component manufacturing capability, including:
...
Global sourcing to ensure competitive pricing
Translation: "Our parts come from China & Bolivia because you want to buy cheap stuff." :frown2: I'll keep buying Spicer, or at worst, MotorCraft. :grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Translation: "Our parts come from China & Bolivia because you want to buy cheap stuff." I'll keep buying Spicer, or at worst, MotorCraft.

Thanks for the Neapco link, where I found this:

Neapco products for front and rear wheel drive light vehicles worldwide

Neapco serves the global front and rear wheel drive light vehicle market with a full line of innovative driveline products for automobiles, SUVs, commercial vans, light-duty trucks up to Class 3, and electric and alternative fuel vehicles.


The products are precision engineered and manufactured to close tolerances for Tier One OEM customers in state-of-the-art plants in North America and Europe. Neapco Drivelines, in Belleville, MI, the former driveshaft manufacturing division of Ford Motor Co., produces propshafts/driveshafts for the North American market. Neapco's Saltillo, Mexico, facility also produces propshafts to serve OEMs in the local Mexican market. Neapco Europe — with facilities in Dueren, Germany, and Praszka, Poland — produces sideshafts/halfshafts, differentials and aluminum high-pressure die castings.


----


Nothing mentioned about China or Bolivia.



Maybe Spicer makes their u-joints in the USA, but I sure didn't find that advertised on their website.
 

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Kimber1911 said:
Maybe Spicer makes their u-joints in the USA, but I sure didn't find that advertised on their website.
I just bought Spicer front axle and front driveshaft u-joints for my truck, and they all said "Made in USA" on the box. The axle seals (also Spicer) were made in Italy.
 

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Nothing mentioned about China or Bolivia.
Then you don't understand what "global" means, or have much of a sense of humor. :winking:
Maybe Spicer makes their u-joints in the USA, but I sure didn't find that advertised on their website.
I find it on their parts & packaging.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
"Made in USA" is normally a claim manufacturers really like to brag about. If I can't find such a claim fairly quickly on a website, I just assume the product's made elsewhere.

As an aside:
I recently bought a 50th Anniversary Buck knife that was "Made in USA". All over Buck's website, the re-seller's website, all the photos - nothing but "Made in USA" in bold letters, US flags waving in the breeze, etc. I opened the leather sheath and there's a sticker "Sheath Made in Mexico".

I don't appreciate misleading/false advertising. I sure don't appreciate being lied to. There are lot's of good knives out there - I'll never purchase another Buck product.

The driveline repair cost me $330, parts and labor.
 

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Find a local driveline shop to rebuild the DC joint. They really aren't that bad to do, despite what has been said regarding that. I can knock one out in under an hour after rebuilding them a couple of times.

There's no need to replace the entire driveshaft. That's just throwing out the baby with the bath water.
I had the front shaft go out of my Jeep, Chrysler said the whole shaft had to be replaced..($500)...but that was a lie, a local drive shaft shop can do the u joints just fine. (BTW I'm done with Chrysler products, they wouldn't even fix the joint with less than the 36K warranty miles on the Jeep) Grr

I had a Dodge Power Wagon with a CV joint, unfortunately the wife was driving when it went bad, and she didn't stop...took out the transfer case & timing chain...
Any vehicle that has a CV joint as soon as you hear ANY noise from them you need to STOP or risk losing all the stuff I did. :(
 
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