It means it's either not getting a signal to fire or not acting on it.
What did you get for solenoid resistance? Should be between 2 and 5 ohms IIRC. Did you check it against any other injector solenoids? They should all be in the same range.
To check the armature gap, you need to remove the solenoid and slip a feeler gauge between the plate and injector body. If it's closer than about 0.0015", then it's probably worn. But the fact that it's spitting oil means that the solenoid is activating the pilot valve (armature) in the injector.
You might have a low compression issue that's causing the fuel being injected not to combust. Could be valves or a cracked piston or ring.
A PSD capable scan tool would allow you to do a buzz test to check the electrical side of the injectors. The buzz test buzzes all the injectors and then in sequence, 1-8. Listening for differences in the sound during the sequence, will sometimes identify a bad injector.
The scan tool will also do a Cylinder Contribution Test, but that will only tell you which cylinder isn't contributing to engine power at idle. It won't differentiate between an injector problem and base engine problem (such as low compression) though.
You could follow up with a compression test, using a gauge that attaches thru the glow plug holes. If you have good compression on all cylinders (lowest within 25% of the highest meets service spec), that would pin it down to the injector itself.
What did you get for solenoid resistance? Should be between 2 and 5 ohms IIRC. Did you check it against any other injector solenoids? They should all be in the same range.
To check the armature gap, you need to remove the solenoid and slip a feeler gauge between the plate and injector body. If it's closer than about 0.0015", then it's probably worn. But the fact that it's spitting oil means that the solenoid is activating the pilot valve (armature) in the injector.
You might have a low compression issue that's causing the fuel being injected not to combust. Could be valves or a cracked piston or ring.
A PSD capable scan tool would allow you to do a buzz test to check the electrical side of the injectors. The buzz test buzzes all the injectors and then in sequence, 1-8. Listening for differences in the sound during the sequence, will sometimes identify a bad injector.
The scan tool will also do a Cylinder Contribution Test, but that will only tell you which cylinder isn't contributing to engine power at idle. It won't differentiate between an injector problem and base engine problem (such as low compression) though.
You could follow up with a compression test, using a gauge that attaches thru the glow plug holes. If you have good compression on all cylinders (lowest within 25% of the highest meets service spec), that would pin it down to the injector itself.
