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Need pics of this. I am assuming all you do is tap the rubber line before the pump, and run it into the Dahl, then back to the pump?
Pics are very helpful!
Pics are very helpful!
Dahl 100 Install
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As the President of the Dahl flippers club, I welcome you to our fraternity. You certainly could plumb your filter that way but there may be air released from the fuel as it passes all of the various hose to hard line to hose connections. My fuel pickup is a straight pipe to the OEM tubing which was dremeled and reemed out to remove the rolled metal edge and then 3/8" i.d. hose runs from the tank forward to the Dahl filter which is mounted right behind the transfer case for protection. A 3/8" hose then leads forward to connect with the pump inlet.
Fuel pickup tubing pre modding.
Fuel pickup tubing post reeming.
Dahl 100 mounted behind the transfer case.
Link to movie of air released at fuel pickup/hose connection.
Fuel pickup tubing pre modding.
Fuel pickup tubing post reeming.
Dahl 100 mounted behind the transfer case.
Link to movie of air released at fuel pickup/hose connection.
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525 Posts
So you have one tube coming from the tank to the Dahl, then to the pump? rather than cutting and inserting hoses?
Here's a shot of one mounted outside of the frame. It uses the Diesel Innovations tank pickup with the 5/8" steel pickup tube going into -10 Marine rated hose also supplied in the DI kit. The -10 then makes its way on to the SX pump in the stock pump location which takes a -8 to the heads. Since it's a Dahl 150 it stuck down pretty far at the T-case location due to its being about 4 or so inches longer, but at the spot next to the tank pickup the frame is at its highest point and the bottom of the filter is above the lowest point of the frame down near the T-case and only slightly lower than the bodyline.
It's on the outside because the fuel tank is on the inside at the high point of the frame, and also because it doesn't make the fuel lines reverse direction at all going through the filter. It would be nice if it wasn't outside the frame, but it is pre-pump, so if it were to take an impact from a wreck or from some large debris, it would just pull air not spray fuel everywhere being on the suction side of the system.
Dahl 150
On Edit:
The Dahl 150 was used because it is rated at 80gph and the SX fuel pump is also rated at 80gph. It should be fine. The Dahl 100 wouldn't have kept up with the SX pump, but I'm sure it's fine for the stock fuel system. Talk to Bob at Dieselsite about them if you have questions.
It's on the outside because the fuel tank is on the inside at the high point of the frame, and also because it doesn't make the fuel lines reverse direction at all going through the filter. It would be nice if it wasn't outside the frame, but it is pre-pump, so if it were to take an impact from a wreck or from some large debris, it would just pull air not spray fuel everywhere being on the suction side of the system.
Dahl 150
On Edit:
The Dahl 150 was used because it is rated at 80gph and the SX fuel pump is also rated at 80gph. It should be fine. The Dahl 100 wouldn't have kept up with the SX pump, but I'm sure it's fine for the stock fuel system. Talk to Bob at Dieselsite about them if you have questions.
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525 Posts
Yeah, I've been reading and it seems like some webpages are saying that the 100 is small, and 8 cylinder diesels should be using a larger filter... Not sure if this is relevant or not...
WHere is teh cheapest to get the Dahl setup?
Also, would it be better to run a larger dahl?
WHere is teh cheapest to get the Dahl setup?
Also, would it be better to run a larger dahl?
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6,286 Posts
[ QUOTE ]
So you have one tube coming from the tank to the Dahl, then to the pump? rather than cutting and inserting hoses?
[/ QUOTE ]Exactly. Every time there is a transition, there is an opportunity to release air from your fuel. My hose runs straight from the pickup over the frame, curving gently forward under the fuel fill tube and then back over the frame to the Dahl which is mounted inside behind the transfer case. The outlet from the fuel filter goes directly forward to the pump. No hard lines at all. No air problems now unless I run the tank way down. Fuel pressure is rock steady at 71 psi and the measured restriction was measured in cm of H20 and was low single digits IIRC, ie. no restriction at all.
So you have one tube coming from the tank to the Dahl, then to the pump? rather than cutting and inserting hoses?
[/ QUOTE ]Exactly. Every time there is a transition, there is an opportunity to release air from your fuel. My hose runs straight from the pickup over the frame, curving gently forward under the fuel fill tube and then back over the frame to the Dahl which is mounted inside behind the transfer case. The outlet from the fuel filter goes directly forward to the pump. No hard lines at all. No air problems now unless I run the tank way down. Fuel pressure is rock steady at 71 psi and the measured restriction was measured in cm of H20 and was low single digits IIRC, ie. no restriction at all.
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6,286 Posts
If you want to run a monster pump, then you may need a bigger Dahl. At WOT, my fuel pressure does not budge so the pump can keep up with demand. Talk to Bob Riley, he can tell you what you need for your planned mods.
It looks like it would be hard to drop the bowl for filter replacement. Can you still get to the top to unscrew it?
I still have a brand spanking new 150 just sitting on the bench, complete with heater. I don't know if it would be a good idea to plumb the fuel line from the sump (bottom of the tank) up to the top of the Dahl, then back down to the pump. Would this be self defeating in regard to the positive pressure the sump was designed to deliver?
DZ
I still have a brand spanking new 150 just sitting on the bench, complete with heater. I don't know if it would be a good idea to plumb the fuel line from the sump (bottom of the tank) up to the top of the Dahl, then back down to the pump. Would this be self defeating in regard to the positive pressure the sump was designed to deliver?
DZ
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2,458 Posts
[ QUOTE ]
Every time there is a transition, there is an opportunity to release air from your fuel.
[/ QUOTE ]
Can somebody enlighten me a little on this? I am looking into a fuel system on my truck and want to avoid problems. I knew you guys eliminated the quick connect fittings and modified the pickup but what about this?
Tom
Every time there is a transition, there is an opportunity to release air from your fuel.
[/ QUOTE ]
Can somebody enlighten me a little on this? I am looking into a fuel system on my truck and want to avoid problems. I knew you guys eliminated the quick connect fittings and modified the pickup but what about this?
Tom
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6,286 Posts
Sharp bends in the hose, sharp edges on fittings etc, cause turbulence and generate an air bubble stream if the flow rate is high enough. Take a look at the video I posted the link to above. Those bubbles are from the transition between the pickup outlet pre-dremel/reeming and 3/8" id. tubing. What do you think the velocity is in the significantly smaller i.d. hardline. Some have found better fittings for the Dahl filter than Bob Riley provides in order to avoid the 90º bend before and after the filter.
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2,067 Posts
call bob at dieselsite.com
Can someone post more information on the fittings that have smoother curves than a 90º bend? Photos, specs, part numbers, etc.
I plan on doing the intake modification from ITP. I also have the Dahl 100. I haven't done it yet, but the Dahl and truck seem to have a perfect bolt pattern match behind the transfer case. I think I just need to widen the holes on the bracket, and purchase 2 nuts. Hope it works out this easily
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6,286 Posts
If you are talking about the Torx bolts coming from the seats through the floor pan, they are nearly perfect and the holes on the mounting bracket need minor elongation. That is where my filter has resided for nearly 6 years. No problems. The best way to do this would be to replace the torx bolts with longer ones to get a bit more thread to hold the bracket on. Mine have been held on with locktite and a narrow locking nut. The torx have an unusually fine thread. I think it is like a M22x1.75 or something like that.Can someone post more information on the fittings that have smoother curves than a 90º bend? Photos, specs, part numbers, etc.
I plan on doing the intake modification from ITP. I also have the Dahl 100. I haven't done it yet, but the Dahl and truck seem to have a perfect bolt pattern match behind the transfer case. I think I just need to widen the holes on the bracket, and purchase 2 nuts. Hope it works out this easily
I just confirmed that the nut will not have enough threads on the bolt. So now I'm trying to understand Torx bolts and which bolts are the ones to do something with.
Where can I buy longer Torx bolts? What size?
Can the Torx bolts extend further by tightening them down? I'm not sure how these bolts work, but I notice there's some extra bolt length at the top where they bolt to the seat.
What tool/size do I need to remove the Torx bolts (E6, E7, E8, E10, E12, E14, E16...just looked at Sears online)?
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6,286 Posts
See the red colored comments.
Here's what my seat bolt looks like. It is possible that I'm working with the wrong seat bolt.
From the photo, you can see I have a torx and I have a hex nut. This is why I though I could adjust the length of the bolt. I loosened the hex nut, and this did not loosen the bolt. I think the hex nut is for the seat, and the torx for the bolt.
I thought the "T" torx bit was for the male, and the "E" torx for the female?
From the photo, you can see I have a torx and I have a hex nut. This is why I though I could adjust the length of the bolt. I loosened the hex nut, and this did not loosen the bolt. I think the hex nut is for the seat, and the torx for the bolt.
I thought the "T" torx bit was for the male, and the "E" torx for the female?
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6,286 Posts
Mine do not look anything like that.:shrug03:
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