[rodman68]

I believe Ziggster and some other people have done this! I would like to know how and if there is someone out there can help me with this? No welding/fabricating experience and the dana 60's are too expensive if you can find one!!! I figure even if I had to pay someone to weld this it should more reasonable.

Rodney
Olympia

 

[Jason R]

Rodney
Here's a link to SwampDonkey's webpage for some more reading and pics of his converted D50 if you don't already have it. <font color="blue">Click</font> /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[rodman68]

Thank you!

I tried to email him but says email rejected! Wanted to see if he has the brackets prefabed for sale?

Rodney

 

[Spencnaz]

Hey Jason, that's a pretty cool article. I may consider doing that to the PowerSmoke here in the future.

 

[rodman68]

Let me know if your are planning on doing the weld I am very close could give some assistance just to see how its done.

Rodney
Olympia, Wa

 

[Jason R]

Here's a link to his other web site. <font color="blue">Click </font> Maybe you can reach him there.

 

[Spencnaz]

It probably wont be for a long while. I'd consider welding up the front axle if I want to goto a lift kit.

I have some injector repairs to do, the original o-rings are finally shot and have to be replaced. And I need to install a few goodies on the truck for long-distance driving.

 

[highfive]

Howdy, did mine a couple months back working good, rides much better due to the RSK and super duty v code springs I have.

I would have been satisfied with just a set of 350 springs when I welded it up as they don't ride that bad but the springs on the TTB are way stiff once you make it one piece. The steering worked adequately with the IFS style of tie rods but is better with the straight axle setup as the toe isn't constantly changing.

What all info are you needing? I learned quite a bit in hindsight and wouldn't mind finding another TTB axle that someone was giving away just to weld it up with the different ideas in mind from what I learned.

My suggestion: an RSK is easy enough to build and super duty springs are readily available for cheap so might as well get the best ride possible. plus you will like the clearance you gain between the axle and cross-member with the lift from the RSK which makes it all easier to work on.

 

[Jason R]

Let's all meet in Portland and get to work! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[Spencnaz]

Sound's like a plan to me.

 

[rodman68]

high five pardon my stupidity but what is RSK? The owner of the truck accepted my offer so if I can weld this thing that would save me some cash!! When is the trip to Portland?? The truck has a 6" superlift on it and I think they are for a F350 the one thing I think is wrong with the setup is if I remember correctly I believe there was shackles on the front and rear attachments to the frame. This is probably the reason he has broken one drop down bracket. I think the axles are trying to twist!! Can I get some pictures of your setup highfive??

Thank you
Rodney

 

[highfive]

An RSK is a reverse shackle kit to fix that problem with the weak shackles on the front letting it wander. I did one when the axle was still 2 pieces with longer pivot brackets but it doesn't address the problems with the axle pivoting.

The springs on yours would probably be okay if it was solid then as they should be softer than the stock 250 springs but if you did an RSK you would gain another 2-3 inches in lift that you may not want.

Definitely when you lift the TTB's and have the longer pivot brackets and more travel it overstresses the brackets, shackles, bushings and is hard on things that's a plus of the RSK as it moves the mount and puts the shackles where they should be.

I have some poor pics of the front end if you click on the "my truck" link in my sig and then pic "see all of users photos" below the pic. I can get some newer ones. one warning is welding up the TTB is not for the faint of heart or someone doubting their welding ability. I did the design and fitting and had my older brother stick it for me as he has been a master welder for 20 years or so. The RSK is easy, sticked that myself and made the pivot brackets and built the track bar and truss but I wasn't as worried about the welds.

 

[86turbodsl]

Need more pics dude!!!!

Can't see anything in those pics.

What did you do with the rear mount on the RSK? Drop down off the regular bracket like everyone else, or in-frame like the newer superduties?

 

[highfive]

Will try and get some, kind of a slacker on taking pics, wife looks at me funny when I take pics of the truck.

Used shackles on the brackets like everyone else-used factory rear ones for a while then got some from sky when I put the Superduty springs on.
I know there is a writeup someone did on using all the factory spring mounts and shackles from a 99+ superduty and put the shackle thru the frame so they ended up with no lift with the RSK, great idea but I wanted the lift so didn't want to do it that way. nice thing is now I can use whatever springs from a 99+ I want to and they have alot more lift options if I ever want to go higher.

 

[ziggster40]

I did weld up my D50. Although, like many, I have always hated the IFS suspension, it was not my invention/idea to weld it solid. I Got my ideas from Swamp donkey's page, and from Huff who also did it.
My welding, although usually very solid, isn't usually very pretty. I pulled the whole thing from the truck first, lined it all up on the shop floor, paying attention to spacing of the springs, and accepting that castor/camber shims can be used to fine tune/align things later. I opted to cut off the passenger hinge point, and left the one on the drivers side, and then used 3/8" buttress plates and 1/4" thick angle iron to join the 2 halves. I spent about an hour aligning it all up before I finally started to stitch it together, and then I had it inspected/aligned by a well respected front end shop locally, and it drives straight as an arrow.
I used springs off a crewcab F350 with 460 gas, and it handles much better than before, but the ride is a bit bouncy. I also used all the steering stuff off the F350, because the stuff off the IFS axle allowed quite a bit of "bump steer" and it bucked horribly when turning sharp in a parking lot. I've had a new set of tires on there since last summer, and I can't even see a hint of wear.
I'd do it again in a heartbeat, my only complaint is that it took me so long to get up the nerve to do it in the first place...
..from the front..
..from above and behind..(Told you the welding was ugly!!)
..from below and in front..

Lastly, I want to add a bit about the reverse shackle. This pic describes it:
..Pic..

So, Just to be clear, the Reverse shackle only works on positive arch springs. If you put one on a negative arch spring, it actually makes the ride/handling worse!

Just my .02...

Zigg /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[highfive]

Like Zigg said, a plagerized the idea originally off of swamps writeup and after reviewing both Huff's and Zigg's success. It's a one way trip kind of deal but I am dang glad I did it too. I hated the constant camber changes and all. My TTB was in great shape and the only wear was to the bushings in the front shackles so it was tough to talk myself into welding it up but I am happy with the results.

I did the RSK originally mainly for the lift it gave and keeping the stock ride which it did with the stock springs even though in theory it is wrong like zigg showed but the 250 springs are so stinkin stiff I think it overrides the negative arch deal. Now with the positively arched superduty springs it is an ideal setup and rides like a new truck but I gained 5 inches of lift. The best way would be to do like zigg said and remove the axle from the truck and square it up first, I chose to take a chance and leave it in and level the truck up and 0 everything out, after about 8000 miles the camber is dead on 0 on both sides and everything tracks well, I plan on getting it in for an alignment check one of these days just to see what they say but my tires show no wear either. I think the TTB with leaf springs was the worst idea ford ever had.

 

[Jason R]

Do any of you have a rough estimate of what it cost you to do this?
I checked and sure enough the upper spring shackle bushings /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif are crushed and squishing out the sides of the shackle.

 

[highfive]

Well, I did multiple steps over about a year and a half so will give each piece separately:

DIY Reverse Shackle Kit
$160 including the sky manufacturing shackles added later and grade 8 hardware in addition the drill bits and welding material which would have cost about another $40.

Superduty springs added later
$80 take-offs from a low mile 2003 with v codes at local 4wheel drive shop can get them on ebay or from salvage yard for about the same price but these were like new.

TTB Made Solid
About $50 for 1/2 and 3/8 plate steel
$20 for welding rod
$20 for chevy/ford hybrid tierods/draglink setup this is cheaper than most would find but there is an outfit on ebay that has the whole F350 straight axle 4x4 tie-rod and drag link setup for about $140 all new stuff and then you wouldn't have to ream the holes for the tie-rod and it is a bolt-on setup.

 

[94_turbo]

high--got a ebay name of the guy that has the steering stuff for sale??? thanks

 

[highfive]

sent you a pm