It's been getting cold here, I am used to cold weather, but where I currently live its going to be getting down to -16f later on this week. So I feel like using my block heater, I run 5w 40 synthetic in my 7.3 and it started up just fine this morning at 0f but it was a little grumpy. I'd like to use the block heater, but I have a fear of it burning down my truck, I am sentimental about my truck and wouldn't want to lose it after reading all the horror story's of the 7.3 block heater fires. I've known people with the new 6.7s catching fire with the block heater as well. I've had it spark on me in the past, no flames but sparks. How could I know my block heater will be safe? Should I replace it with a new OEM heater element and cord? I just would like some insight, I am not too worried about hurting the motor starting in -16f without the heater, but it would be better on it I know.
Dangers of using the block heater.
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Single digits here in CO. I currently have to park outside. I plug mine in all night on a GFI plug.
I sleep like a baby
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I sleep like a baby
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9,235 Posts
And put it on a timer to come on around 3 hours before you need the truck. Any longer is a waste of electricity unless you are not paying for it.
Also I have never read or heard of a block heater causing a fire. Unless you have a problem with your garage or home wiring the breaker should trip before there is a problem. Now the cruse control wiring to the brake switch is a different thing.
Also I have never read or heard of a block heater causing a fire. Unless you have a problem with your garage or home wiring the breaker should trip before there is a problem. Now the cruse control wiring to the brake switch is a different thing.
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Do you have any links to any of these? I can't say it hasn't happened, but I have never heard of a block heater causing a fire.
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What Graupp said :thumbsup:
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A GFCI would be nearly useless for preventing this. The purpose of that plug is prevent people from electrocuting themselves in the bathroom or kitchen. An Arc Fault circuit interrupter would be the plug (or breaker) you would want on this circuit.
I suspect any fires that were caused by a block heater were due to worn cords and not the heater itself.
AFCISafety.org
I suspect any fires that were caused by a block heater were due to worn cords and not the heater itself.
AFCISafety.org
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I have never heard of a block heater causing a vehicle fire and I have worked in the Arctic where these trucks were plugged in at all times they were not running.
As was suggested above, you could install a new block heater cord...its just as cheap to buy the "Kit" which includes the new heater and cord.
Other than that, use an extension cord only as long as you need to reach the vehicle. Don't use a 100' cord if 60' of it is just going to be coiled up and I agree with the posts above that you want 12-gauge cord.
In those temperatures, you will be doing your engine a big favor by plugging it in.
As was suggested above, you could install a new block heater cord...its just as cheap to buy the "Kit" which includes the new heater and cord.
Other than that, use an extension cord only as long as you need to reach the vehicle. Don't use a 100' cord if 60' of it is just going to be coiled up and I agree with the posts above that you want 12-gauge cord.
In those temperatures, you will be doing your engine a big favor by plugging it in.
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There are many cases of block heater fires, all one has to do is Google "block heater fires". Some of them have even been documented on the dieselstop site. The cause is the cord. The OEM cord is molded and the conductors are contained in a flat jacket. Over the years of bending back and forth, accidentally driving away while still plugged in etc the strands of copper where the plug meets the cord begin to break until there is not enough conductor cross sectional area to carry the load safely, and a glowing connection results. Once the plastic starts to burn it's well on it's way to burning down the vehicle. A GFCI won't see it because there is no load imbalance. A circuit breaker won't see it because there is no overload. Even an Arc Fault breaker won't see it unless there is an arc. There may be an arc, a load imbalance or a short circuit (overload) eventually as things melt down, but by then the fire may be self sustaining.
1,000 watts is a big load (which is why you get the big "load spark" when you plug it in), cords must be in good condition and sized appropriately. Replacing the OEM cord when it gets old or damaged or switching to a bumper mounted inlet like the Marinco are both good moves to prevent a fire. Also the extension cord must grip the plug blades tightly, a worn female end on the cord will also get hot enough for a melt down.
https://www.google.com/search?q=blo...=kmVLWPaMG6aA0wKHvpuwBw#imgrc=Ga_prph3sXXYAM:
1,000 watts is a big load (which is why you get the big "load spark" when you plug it in), cords must be in good condition and sized appropriately. Replacing the OEM cord when it gets old or damaged or switching to a bumper mounted inlet like the Marinco are both good moves to prevent a fire. Also the extension cord must grip the plug blades tightly, a worn female end on the cord will also get hot enough for a melt down.
https://www.google.com/search?q=blo...=kmVLWPaMG6aA0wKHvpuwBw#imgrc=Ga_prph3sXXYAM:
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Interesting, Never have as most of those heaters get plugged into are 15 amps and if heater cod shorts from chaffing, the breaker trips but only needs that one sparks but usually you would need a material like a fenderiner impregnated with an acellerant.. Interseting
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Yank you cord off, inspect cord and terminals that plug into heater and is the power plug in end.
Miss the the 1950s GE Christmaslights but one year they didn't meet inspection, right?
Miss the the 1950s GE Christmaslights but one year they didn't meet inspection, right?
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1,368 Posts
A short has nothing to do with it. A bare wire touching a conductive surface will create a short circuit and will trip a breaker. A spark or two from a slow reacting breaker will not be enough to start the fire. The problem is a reduction in conductor cross sectional area inside the cord assembly that cannot be seen. That causes a glowing connection which can carry on for hours and eventually burn the truck down.
We see this in house wiring when back stabbed receptacles were used and a heavy load runs through the circuit for an extended period. Once the glowing connection finally gets hot enough to flame it just burns everything in the box. Even a plastic box has a fire rating long enough to last the time it takes to burn the contents, so most of the time a house fire is avoided. Sometimes you get curtains or things stored up against the outlet which can be another story.
Heater Cord
The heater cord itself has a cap for it...to protect it.
The male prongs have a tendency to oxidize or corrode over time.
In order to make a good connection, you may have to clean the male prongs with a wire brush or steel wool..
Better yet, get some brass cleaner at Walmart
Oxidation will inhibit the flow of current across the connection, causing heat buildup...
Just like on your truck battery posts...
Those lead posts develop oxidation and current doesn't flow across the terminals
Giving you poor starts...
Just one more thing to think about...
The heater cord itself has a cap for it...to protect it.
The male prongs have a tendency to oxidize or corrode over time.
In order to make a good connection, you may have to clean the male prongs with a wire brush or steel wool..
Better yet, get some brass cleaner at Walmart
Oxidation will inhibit the flow of current across the connection, causing heat buildup...
Just like on your truck battery posts...
Those lead posts develop oxidation and current doesn't flow across the terminals
Giving you poor starts...
Just one more thing to think about...
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1,194 Posts
never used the block heater on either truck. both started to -20F without an issue. Starting systems in good working order is the key.
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Block heater system in good working order (including the cord and plug) is also key to not burning down your truck.
RT said it best. And a fixed receptacle (like the Marinco Charger inlet) on the bumper is the best protection for your cord.
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Ford Recalls Trucks Again Over Faulty Engine-Block Heater
Ford recalls trucks, including the 2015-2019 F-150 and 2017-2019 Super Duty, for a second time to repair damage that may have occurred in a recent recall. Consumer Reports explains.
www.consumerreports.org
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I had not been aware of this so thanks for posting.
It sounds like the 2018 recall was a poor seal against the elements but this newest recall sounds like faulty electrical design.
It sounds like the 2018 recall was a poor seal against the elements but this newest recall sounds like faulty electrical design.
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We don’t put ancient Christmas tree lights on our Christmas trees…
Don’t run an ancient block heater and cord on your truck.
I regularly see block heaters with its insulation between the pins inside of the connection cup on the block heater, cracked and crumbling. Ive seen corrosion on the pins I’ve cut cords open and found green corrosion running up the cord under the insulation, while the plug looked perfectly good.
Put a new block heater on. Use dielectric grease on cord.
Easiest- Safest- Best peace of mind for both parties upsell.
Don’t run an ancient block heater and cord on your truck.
I regularly see block heaters with its insulation between the pins inside of the connection cup on the block heater, cracked and crumbling. Ive seen corrosion on the pins I’ve cut cords open and found green corrosion running up the cord under the insulation, while the plug looked perfectly good.
Put a new block heater on. Use dielectric grease on cord.
Easiest- Safest- Best peace of mind for both parties upsell.
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