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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All -

I've got an alternator issue that I could use some help troubleshooting. Here is the long story:

Last summer I installed a new high out put alternator (DC Power) on my 2006 F350, complete with the upgraded wiring kit.

A few months ago, I went to drive the truck and noticed the batteries were pretty low. I had been doing some work on the radio recently and had the truck on/off several times so I figured that was the reason. It did start up, however I then noticed the battery light on my dash. It seems that the in-line 250 amp fuse that comes with the wiring kit had popped. I am fairly certain this did not pop before, I think it happened at that point.

I replaced the fuse, checked the wiring, and went on my way. All seemed well. The truck then sat for a few months as it doesn't get used much in the summer. Upon driving it again, I noticed my alternator was not putting out enough juice. Edge insight was showing around 12-12.2 volts. I popped the he hood and noticed the alternator was flaming hot and even smelled of some burning. I immediately called DC Power and they instructed me to send it back for repair.

In the meantime, I popped a ford OEM alternator out of my other 6.0 to put in this truck in the meantime. I have been driving the truck around with the OEM alternator for a few weeks with no noticeable problems. The voltage, however, does randomly show either 13.8-13.9V or 13.0-13.1V on my edge - not sure if this is normal or if it should always be 13.9.

At this point, DC Power called me to tell me they would not fix the alternator under warranty because the truck caused the failure. I am obviously angered by this but would like some opinions.

Thoughts?
 

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It sounds like you have something drawing a lot of power or perhaps a bit less but even when the engine is off. Personally I'd start by disconnecting the radio and anything else you installed recently. You might also get this Hall effect sensor. [ame]https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DDQM6Z4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472259868&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=hall+effect+meter&dpPl=1&dpID=41qkkmNYE-L&ref=plSrch[/ame]

I just bought one for another project but it seems like just the ticket for determining how much current your alternator is putting out, especially at only 13v. You might want the 400a one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It sounds like you have something drawing a lot of power or perhaps a bit less but even when the engine is off. Personally I'd start by disconnecting the radio and anything else you installed recently. You might also get this Hall effect sensor. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01D...fect+meter&dpPl=1&dpID=41qkkmNYE-L&ref=plSrch

I just bought one for another project but it seems like just the ticket for determining how much current your alternator is putting out, especially at only 13v. You might want the 400a one.
Just ordered a DC clamp on amp meter to test for this... Should be here Sunday...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Just tested the alternator wire with my clamp on meter. Started the truck with A/C on full blast, radio blaring and lights on. Was getting about 90-100amp. After a few minutes dropped down to about 60amps. SHut off radio, lights and A/C and I was getting readings closer to 10-20amps.

DC Power wants $175 to fix the high amp alternator, after I already spent $65 to ship it out. No thanks, very dissapointed in their response. Advance Auto has a 140amp for $150 w/ lifetime replacement and I am sure they don't do forensic analysis to determine failure like DC Power is doing...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Any current draw from the battery with the engine off? What's the battery voltage after sitting overnight?
No current draw w/ engine off. Well check batteries in the morning...


What controls the voltage output of the alternator? Reason I ask is, would it have been possible to damage the alt driving around with the in-line fuse blown? In this case the batteries would be decreasing voltage and the alternator running but not able to charge due to the blown fuse.
 

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Well I've got to ask the question........ Did you ask them what on your truck caused the failure (or would cause the failure) that they're not gonna warranty.
I've got one installed and have for years and never had a issue. I don't have any upgraded wiring kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well I've got to ask the question........ Did you ask them what on your truck caused the failure (or would cause the failure) that they're not gonna warranty.
I've got one installed and have for years and never had a issue. I don't have any upgraded wiring kit.

They are claiming that something on the truck was drawing too much power and caused it to overheat. When they first called, the first question out of their mouth was "what was wrong with the truck before the alternator died". It was FICMrepair.com who actually called to give me this news since that was where I bought it. I finally got ahold of someone from DC Power and they said they are going to look over the alternator again on Monday and get back to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well no update on truck status as I haven't had any problems with the Ford alternator -- but quick update on DC Power. They've had the alternator for 3 weeks now and I still have no definitive answer. Since the point when they called to tell me it wasn't going to be covered under warranty, I have talked to two separate people both who have said they were going to personally look at the situation and get back to me asap.

Getting pretty frustrated. Expected a lot more.
 

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I have a 200 amp Quick Start large frame that has been flawless for 5 years now.
 

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IF you blew a 200amp fuse you definitely have/had something wrong.. That is a TON of current and shy of a dead short, nothing should've blown that. Do you have aftermarket lights and/or stereo equip? What is your need for the large DC alt anyway? The stock 110amp unit was barely capable of supplying what the truck needs but the 135amp stock units are more than capable with actual output around 160-180amps.

I'd do a thorough check on the truck, have the batteries LOAD TESTED, just hanging a volt meter on them tells nothing. If you have stereo equip, disconnect it all and see what happens.
 

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I had a similar problem with a 185 amp alternator. 5 months in it started to run very hot, had carbon and metal bits on the outside and finally failed putting out only 12.2 volts. Talked with Anthony Ledesma in tech support and he said they were having trouble with the voltage regulators. Mine has been at their facility for 3 weeks, not a peep from them. Very disappointed.

WDP
 

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Wow....was getting ready to pull the trigger on a new DC Power alternator but notice most of the 03' 6.0 PSD's are all out of stock on their website. Add this to WDP's comment above and........yep, I don't think I'll be going with a DC Power alt now. Perfect timing!!! OP--Didn't mean to hijack your post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
finally fixed

update on DC Power's customer service... after three weeks of calls speaking with three different people who all said "I'll check into it tomorrow and get back to you", I had just about given up. I happened to then be away on vacation for a week, and low and behold when I got home the alternator was on my stoop all fixed. Never heard from them, I guess I just bugged them enough until they fixed it? Not the ideal customer service experience, but at least its fixed....
 

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Good deal!
 
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