[mcintoshjr]

I have seached 400 post's on a search with no luck.
About 2 weeks ago I found my self having to put more and more pressur on the clutch pedal to enable starting, what I found upon inspection is that there is a switch on a lever over by the accelorator that appears to be the only electrical connection that could enable starting. The arm bushing (plastic) is worn and there are 4 wires comming out of the connector.
Question: Which wires need to be jumpered so I do not have to worry about clutch position? I will first jumper the plug to test then cut solder and heat shrink it once confirmed. I have always hated this "safety feature" anyway. I am capable of either placing in neutral or depressing clutch to start. I have had a need in the past to start other vehicles in gear due to bad clutches.
Thanks in advance.

92 1/2 F-260

 

[924x4]

I am having the same problem with mine right now. The only good side to this is that my friends cant run off in my truck but it is a real pain to try and start.As of right now i have not tried any thing because im to lazy to mess with it. But if i do anything i will buy the new part or do trial and error and find out which wires to bypass. If i do it soon ill get back at u about this.

 

[BuilderBob]

One of the many design flaws of this truck is the hydraulic clutch.
It will start out just a you described, you must depress the clutch pedal firmly to the floor to get the safety switch to close.
Next will be grinding into reverse, than grinding into 1st.
I will predict that you have hydraulic problems and/or clutch linkage problem, not safety switch problems.
Get on your back under the steering column and do a search for worn linkage parts.
I will bet that you find that the clutch master cylinder has an egged shaped hole on the push rod, and the opposing part is worn to almost breaking.
Good Luck

 

[9ENGEL]

Don't forget to check the clutch pedal bushings. I replaced mine and solved that problem.

 

[BuilderBob]

9ENGL,
You sound like a 10 penny nail hit with a greasy ball pein.
Right on!!!!

 

[mcintoshjr]

The only worn part was the bushing onthe end of the rotating rod which only apparent function is to operate a position switch.
Rig has had a new clutch - replaced DM with a SM LUK, Hyd cyl changed at the same time about 70K ago.

 

[cdnsarguy]

The safety switch you speak of, is a bypass on an auto trans. Just unplug one and put the bypass in from a wrecked truck. Also check the firewall for bowed out/cracked around the M/C, believe your truck year is past that problem but???

 

[Ceejmo]

Go to the Ford Dealership and order a part number E8TB-14A624-AB (this in the number marked on the part) . This is the bypass jumper that is used when you have an auto tranny.

 

[walkerlarry2]

Go to the Ford Dealership and order a part number E8TB-14A624-AB (this in the number marked on the part) . This is the bypass jumper that is used when you have an auto tranny.

But with this you will not have working cruse control

 

[klhansen]

But with this you will not have working cruse control

A little late to the party (as in ~15 years).

But I don't think that's an issue. On 99-01 auto trucks, that jumper block keeps 12V on the PCM pin that drops out cruise. That circuit gets opened as the clutch pedal is depressed on manual tranny trucks. I believe it would be the same on the earlier trucks.