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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
good evening,

been a lurker here for SEVERAL years and usually find all my information just by searching and reading. Here's one i can't find an answer to.

have a 02 cc with around 95000 miles on it. did in tank mod and had a dp chip for years, got some gelled fuel this winter and had no choice but to drive about 25 miles at 15 miles an hr because truck would shake over 20. so got reg return thinking that it would return warm fuel to the tank. (also started using power service in the white jug again, argh, i'm an idiot) also just bought autoenginuity and did cyl rotational change test and #2 was at about .2, #3 was at 2.7 and #8 was at 6.5, all others were mostly at zero but a couple would flicker at .1 rarely, so decided to get ad injector for #8. was supposed to be a "new" injector on ebay but turned out to be a rebuild when it showed up, also looked like it had some oil in it and the orings looked like it had been installed but they weren't torn at all. today i changed it anyway. did buzz test before i put valve cover on, all ok. put truck the rest of the way together and did contribution test and #8 failed again. checked cyl rotational change test again and resultas were nearly identical. there also seems to be a slight knock just over idle as i accelerate slowly in gear. also my hpop psi goes to 1750 or so and sol duty cycle goes to 75 or so at wot acceleration on jody's 120hp tune. (hpop did that before injector change)

here are a few of my q?

what damage may i have caused running with gelled fuel?

did someone ship me a used injector with new orings? the tip wasn't black like the #8 i took out but it did look a little like it was brushed off.

could someone have shipped me a ae injector with an ad solenoid on it?

is my hpop shot?

i'm not planning on any crazy injectors would the adreneline from dieselsite be a good choice for me (seems priced real reasonable and i'm pretty broke)?

i did run some biodiesel last year, would that have damaged my injectors, can someone please post a pic of what a "coked" injector looks like?

Thank you very much

have a great evening

Patrick
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
another problem this morning,

started truck as usual and let idle for nearly 10 min, went to go to work and it would shake and shudder, checked cylinder rotational change and #8 was at 14+, just as i was about to take different vehicle to work it smothened right out and now it drives fine. any suggestions please?


thanks again

Patrick Borst
 

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It takes a while to get the air out of the oil after an injector change. Some say a few hundred miles.

You didn't mention who you got the injector from, but if it where Pensacole Diesel you may want to reconsider. I bought one from them that was absolute junk. The only good thing about dealing with them was that they gave ma a complete no questions asked refund.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
ok, pretty sure i got taken, or at least a bad rebuild, i swapped injector from 8 to 2, fired up truck, no oil squirt from 2 now. idled for a few min and oil started squirting. thought all was good. drove around for a while. waited over night. went to leave for work in the morning and truck shakes again, arghhhhhh....

found out that if i nailed it (assuming to get icp pressure up) starts to run a lil better. then in a few miles "mostly" good. so in my mind it has to be a bad injector right?


Regardless, i decided to just say heck with it, called swamps, went with 175/146 single shots and a chip reburn. wish me luck. They should be here end of next week. I'm really ready to get this thing going like normal again.
 

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this is the exact problem i have been trying to fix, what is the tester you are refering to? "checked cyl rotational change test"
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Autoenginuity, bought mine from itp diesel. lil expensive but very handy.

if you can "floor it" for a few seconds and it immediately starts to run better i am assuming it would be a stuck / bad injector. (sometimes it takes a few tries for me, and it helps if the truck/oil is a little warm) if it comes and goes at random it is probably a loose or bad under valve cover harness. check you're connections just inboard of the valve covers (it's actually part of the valve cover gasket) if those are tight can try and ohm out the injectors, center pin #5 is common with 3,4,6,7 corresponding to injectors. should ohm out to be about 3. pins 1,2, and 7,8 correspond to glow plugs, ohm out with a good ground, (someone please jump in if i am incorrect) an infinate resistance would most likely indicate bad connection under the valve cover.

good luck

Patrick

EDIT!!!!
these tests are for my 7.3 if you are working on a 6.0 i can't really help, autoenginuity would probably help but can't really give advice.

good luck again
 

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seller on ebay that i got remans from is sending me two injectors to replace the two that dont seem to be working correctly, i also ordered a Autoenginuity setup
 

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temp gun shows 6 & 8 are the cylinders not firing , pulled valve cover off started motor , no oil coming out of 6 & 8 but it is out of 2 & 4, replaced the two with the replacement remans that seller sent me, restart and all have oil comming out now and miss is gone, need to put some miles on it and see what happens
 

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100 miles later and its not perfect, misses just enough to barley feel, cylinder contribution test gives p0284 code, which is #8 , so i guess next step is to switch #2 and #8 injectors around and see what happens
 

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Swap those injectors and see what happens. Does #8 squirt oil even though it flunks the contribution test? Have you done a compression test yet?

Just FYI, the factory fuel system will always return warm fuel to the tank. Your engine would not run with out a return line period. I have never ran a dieselsite hpop myself, but in your case I would think ANYTHING newer would be a big step in the right direction. Your hpop is mostly trashed with the numbers you posted.
 

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thanks kanman for responding starting to think i was talking to myself, LOL

when i did the "cyl rotational change test" #8 has a reading of 5.2 what is this telling me?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
i think #8 usually fails contribution test if you have a gray cps, (factory ford recall). my number 8 was at around 5.4 and #3 was at 2.1. I am looking for the 1821720C99 international version cps as i believe it is supposed to be the best.

Does anyone sell them online, i never have a chance to get to the international dealer to ask them.

Thanks
 

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IH pt # 1821720C99 fixed mine, $46
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
thanks for the info, that's what i was hoping, did you buy online, if you purchased locally can i possibly bother you to buy one and ship it to me. be happy to either send a check or send money via paypal

Thanks
 
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