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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Went out to start my rig today and got nothing but white smoke. I let the glow plugs cycle again and again nothing but white smoke. Waited 30 seconds, tried again, nothing but smoke. I have not had any problems starting in the past?!?!? Not due for oil change for 1,000 miles and fuel filter change in 2,000 any suggestions greatly appreciated. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif
 

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did you tried using the shrader valve to bleed the fuel line while you tried those several times? might just be air on the fuel lines. have you done any work on the truck lately, you provably knock a fuel return line.

my 2c, Exekiel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Haven't done any work on her lately, she's been running fine. Out of the clear blue today she didn't want to turn over. I'm running the same fuel I always use. (Pilot brand)
 

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This reminds of the day that mine would not start.
Lift pump
Running good one day, would not start the next.
 

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whoa whoa whoa stop we need to do some trouble shooting before we start thowing parts at her! YOu have white smoke but no crank. whats the temp up there? I can send you some glow plug tests to chekc your glow plugs first and rule them out. Nex we'l do a lift pump test pull the sharder valve out and hook up a pressure meter to it. you should see 4-6 psi while cranking. then you need to do a quantity test. in 10 seconds of cranking you should have 1/3 of a pint. pm me you email and i will get those glow plug tests sent to you. if it turns out to be the lift pump its 21 dollars but go eletric dude! If its the lift ill expound on the eletric pump later!



-Jeremy Roooster /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 

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did the Wait To Start light stay on for the 7-10 seconds or did it flash on for 2 or 3 and then start clicking?If it was the latter then bad glow plugs.Test them with an Ohm Meter not a test light.They can be shot but still pass current!

Did you hear any post warmup clicking?If not then your glow relay ain't working right(Bad ground?).
 

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The lift pump is too cheap to trouble shoot $21 NAPA, takes a rookie, (like myself) about 2 hours, to remove & replace.

Now about the GP's,
Ohmmeters are of someuse when used by knowledgable people, if you insist on using an Ohmeter, purchase a new GP, with this GP measure the ohmage, this will be what a good GP will read.

[ QUOTE ]
They can be shot but still pass current!


[/ QUOTE ]

No I don't think so, if they are shorted they will burn "Open" is the blink of an eye, as there is nothing else in the circuit, use OHMs Law to prove this, the internal resistance can not "grow", if it can pleae decribe the details, (and not what you GrandPa use to tell you).

If you follow the trouble shooting methods as decribed in the FORD manual it make NO mention of a meter, it does describe trouble shooting with a test light. If there are those not will argue, answer me this? Is 2.9 ohms good or bad, How about 3.1 ohm? what is good what is bad? How do you test your meter for accuracy?

BB
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just checked with my local NAPA store, they carry Autolite, AC, and Champion glow-plugs. I've heard the Autolites are not a good choice, how about the other two?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks Tim, I've just located a full set at Azone. New problem is the plastic GP boots are disintegrating as I try to pull them off of the GPs. Are these replaceable?

I've been using the search to find an article about glow plug replacement with no luck, if anyone can remember any archived articles feel free to point me in the right direction. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Crap! All of the GP's check out okay, I figured I had a couple that were out because this winter I had to plug the ol' girl up every night it dipped below 40 degrees. I used a test light to check each one and each one lite up like a Christmas tree.

Does this sound like an fuel pump that's headed south?
 

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[ QUOTE ]
Does this sound like an fuel pump that's headed south?


[/ QUOTE ]
Possibly, an I/P,
I would try a lift pump, very cheap, very easy.
How would you like to pay for a new I/P, only to discover that you needed a $21 lift pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'll probably heat shrink the connector ends and look at the Lift Pump first. The leak just started today, would not start yesterday, thanks for the tips I'll keep you posted. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
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