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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
97 F350 dually 2WD automatic.

1. - Do these things take the old style / regular 80/90 weight in the rear differential?

2. - And how many quarts?

3. - Can I use high temp gasket sealer when replacing the pumpkin cap - or is it better to use a factory fit gasket?

Thanx
 

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I just replaced mine with 75w140 synthetic in the rear, and it took 6.9 quarts according to the manuals but I got a full 7 quarts into mine. Since yours is a dually it may take more. I didn't even pull the rear cover but used a 12 volt oil suction pump to get it all out of the fill hole. I actually measured it and what I got out came very close to the 7 quarts. If you do pull the cover I would use Fords sealant to go back on. There was no gasket for them except for some aftermarket covers.

I did have a dickens of a time getting the fill plug out and ended up welding a bolt to it to break it loose.
 

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Spec per the owner's manual is synthetic 75w/140. I'm a fan of Permatex "The Right Stuff" sealant and use it on any gasketed surface like this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanx guys!

I have a leak / drip (and am planning on changing) the rear seal of my automatic transmission.

While I have the drive shaft off - I'll change U-Joints and differential oil with 75w/140.

I'm pulling the pumpkin cover to clean out the sump (300,000 miles)
and will use Permatex to re-install.

Thanx again!
 

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Thanx guys!

I have a leak / drip (and am planning on changing) the rear seal of my automatic transmission.

While I have the drive shaft off - I'll change U-Joints and differential oil with 75w/140.

I'm pulling the pumpkin cover to clean out the sump (300,000 miles)
and will use Permatex to re-install.

Thanx again!

There will never ever be a better time to replace the yoke seal - just sayin' :icon_wink:
 

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There will never ever be a better time to replace the yoke seal - just sayin' :icon_wink:
A pinion seal, if that's what you're proposing a change of, isn't something you just pull and replace. These Sterlings use a crush sleeve and the retaining nut has to go back on with the same exact turning torque that it came off at. This isn't difficult, but do it wrong, and you can burn up pinion bearings in a hurry.

IMO, if it aint broke don't fix this one.
 
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