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Discussion Starter #1
I have a leak where the dipstick adapter is attached to the oil pan. I have the diesel o-ring kit. Problem is I can't loosen the nut on the outside of the pan. I put a solid rod inside the adapter to hold it from spinning. I still cannot loosen the nut.
I have thought about using a cutoff wheel to split the nut.

Does anyone have any suggestions?
 

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Oops. That's bad news. That inner piece should not spin. It has a notch in the pan that piece fits into to stop it from rotating, and to align it properly at install. An the O ring repair does not work 90% of the time. Most times the inside lip that holds the O ring gets warped from too tight, and the new seal wont seal. I forget who sells it, but theres a complete replacement billet piece you can buy to fix this. But they rape you on the price. Its ridiculous. I got my nut off. Cleaned all oil off. Used JB weld to goop all around the threads and hole, with the piece still in. THen tightened the nut back down and let the goop dry. Never leaked since, and if you clean up the mess before it drys, no one knows theres JB weld sealing it up. Worked fantastic. As for getting the nut off. Big pair of vice grips to hold the inner piece. And I had to use a 2ft cresent wrench to remove the nut. It is on tight. Odd yours spins, and is still tight. Im thinking cross threaded. Once mine broke loose, it spun off easily.
 

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I had to replace mine cause the inner flange got bent after being fixed once and would not seal. I had to do the Strictly Diesel external adapter on it saved a lot of trouble with the old design but have had no problems with it. It has been on my truck for two years. Here are some pictures of it installed on my truck I never had the nut not come loose but it can happen as the o-ring swells with oil it pulls on the nut causing the threads to lock the nut. You could try heating the nut a little and holding the inner pice with a pair of needle nose vice grips with a string tied to them and use a two inch wrench to loosen it. IMG_0295.jpg IMG_0318.jpg IMG_0319.jpg .



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That's the one I meant, its expensive. I didn't like dropping the old on in the pan either. So red neck fix for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I agree. I don't like the idea of dropping it in the oil pan.

Thanks for all the advice. I will have to pay the money for the billet pan adapter. Still have to remove the nut.
 

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Try a small chisel and hammer. The impact in the right direction may loosen the nut. The notch that Absolute mentioned should keep the adapter from turning in the pan, but it's not very big, just about 1/8" wide at one edge of the opening. You might soak it down with PB Blaster in case it's corroded on there. The heat idea is good as well. I think you can probably save the adapter, but you may have to get a new nut. That billet adapter is crazy expensive.
 

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I have a leak where the dipstick adapter is attached to the oil pan. I have the diesel o-ring kit. Problem is I can't loosen the nut on the outside of the pan. I put a solid rod inside the adapter to hold it from spinning. I still cannot loosen the nut.
I have thought about using a cutoff wheel to split the nut.

Does anyone have any suggestions?
That's a bummer... The dip stick adapter on these engines is terrible! It's not a matter of IF it will leak, but WHEN... :yesnod:

The hammer/chisel might work (as klhansen suggested), or even a small air-chisel, to try and "unscrew" it. If it still isn't budging, then the die grinder might be the way.

IIRC, I believe the nut is die-cast zinc (as are both pieces). In any case, just use care if you're gonna cut it off, so as not to damage/cut the pan, or get any "grindings" down in the engine/pan.

Fortunately, mine came apart quite easily, and I tried to fix the o-ring twice, but each time it began to weep again. Once those pieces get a little warped, it'll never seal correctly.

So I bit-the-bullet and bought the "Strictly Diesel" aluminum one. I HATED paying that much... however, it is a REALLY nice piece. With the twin o-rings inside, it should last a long time. Easy to install, and perfect fit. It is removable, should the o-rings ever leak. Personally, I had no issue dropping the old piece into the pan. Having had a pan off of these engines before, there's plenty o' room down in the sump/pickup area. It'll just lay down there, harming nothing. I did drain my oil prior to the install, to ensure the old piece did drop down into the sump.

No leaks so far... dry as a bone!
 

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I started hemorrhaging oil recently from the oil dipstick adapter...to the tune of 2 gallons in 20 miles.

You should be able to put some channel locks on that big nut to turn it. My adapter was loose but the nut was tight (pretty sure the threads were distorted from the o-ring swelling and pulling the adapter). There's a reason that dieselorings.com sells a thread restorer file also for the adapter.

I contemplated the repair kit and thread file but there was a chance that it wouldn't work and I'd be still be stuck with a leak. With my luck that would be me and I'd be out ~$80 and no better off.

Rather than risk doing the job twice I opted for the "buy once, cry once" and got the Sinister Diesel billet adapter. Installed it and no more leak. My truck is my DD so it was worth every penny IMO.
 

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I've only seen this repair and havent actually done it, (yet) but is it possible to get something in the hole and cut or deform the piece inside the pan enough that it can be removed?
 

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If you are scared about the flange inside of the pan dropping into the oil I would suggest that you just pull the engine, remove the pan and repair it.

Once that flange in down in the oil it will do zero damage to anything. It won't bounce around unless you plan on driving the truck without any oil in the pan.
 

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I've only seen this repair and havent actually done it, (yet) but is it possible to get something in the hole and cut or deform the piece inside the pan enough that it can be removed?
The adapter is pretty thick and there's a considerable amount of flange inside the pan to seat it (see picture).

Even if you could get something in there to cut it there's no way to prevent a bunch of shavings/waste from the evolution from getting into the sump.

If you are scared about the flange inside of the pan dropping into the oil I would suggest that you just pull the engine, remove the pan and repair it.

Once that flange in down in the oil it will do zero damage to anything. It won't bounce around unless you plan on driving the truck without any oil in the pan.
The flange is pretty beefy and will just sit at the bottom of the sump. There are plenty that have gone before me and haven't had an issue.
 

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I see what you mean now.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I received my billet dipstick adapter yesterday. I have to wait for better weather to install it and rebuild the oil cooler.
 

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I received my billet dipstick adapter yesterday. I have to wait for better weather to install it and rebuild the oil cooler.
Good deal! Although it's a pricey piece, it is well engineered, and works like charm!

As I mentioned above (I think), I would recommend to drain the oil [out of the engine] before you start the dipstick adapter install. That way, you can "hear" the old piece fall to the bottom of the pan/sump, and be assured it got there. Also, I did mine on a slightly inclined driveway (truck pointing up-hill) to further ensure that the piece fell down into the sump area.

Also, make sure you retrieve the old o-ring (as the install directions indicate).


Have fun!
 

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Good deal! Although it's a pricey piece, it is well engineered, and works like charm!

As I mentioned above (I think), I would recommend to drain the oil [out of the engine] before you start the dipstick adapter install. That way, you can "hear" the old piece fall to the bottom of the pan/sump, and be assured it got there. Also, I did mine on a slightly inclined driveway (truck pointing up-hill) to further ensure that the piece fell down into the sump area.

Also, make sure you retrieve the old o-ring (as the install directions indicate).


Have fun!


Also get some black rtv to put on the adapter between the o-rings to seal it up. The oil pans are not flat and taper a little the rtv will insure it seals up good luck and have fun.


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Also get some black rtv to put on the adapter between the o-rings to seal it up. The oil pans are not flat and taper a little the rtv will insure it seals up good luck and have fun.
Yeah... no.


I wouldn't recommend using any RTV. The double o-ring design on the new adapter seals very well.

RTV really is NOT your friend around oil systems, IMHO.
 

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Yeah... no.


I wouldn't recommend using any RTV. The double o-ring design on the new adapter seals very well.

RTV really is NOT your friend around oil systems, IMHO.
The double o-ring design works great. I have absolutely no leakage.

If you feel the need to seal anything on the oil system I recommend using the Ford TA-31 sealant (RTV). It is specifically designated for use on the 7.3L (says so on the tube) and is what Ford used as the gasket material for the oil pan.
 

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Some pans are so warped you have to use rtv. It’s in the Instructions now from strictly/driven.

I’m about to order the same adapter.

My friend just installed his and had a big gap at the bottom of the flange that required rtv
 

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Some pans are so warped you have to use rtv. It’s in the Instructions now from strictly/driven.

I’m about to order the same adapter.

My friend just installed his and had a big gap at the bottom of the flange that required rtv


What blue99stroker said I did a test fit on mine and I had the warp on the pan so not wanting to do it twice I got the high heat made for oil rtv and no problem so far no problems.


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What blue99stroker said I did a test fit on mine and I had the warp on the pan so not wanting to do it twice I got the high heat made for oil rtv and no problem so far no problems.


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I don't think it's a warp as much as the contour of the pan since mine has it too (if it's at the bottom of the adapter).

I just did this a couple of weeks ago and don't remember any mention of RTV in the instructions. With two o-rings and a clean pan surface I figured that would work well enough so did not use any TA-31 when I did the job.

After I installed the "Nugget" I warmed up the truck and ran a few errands close to home to put a few short heat cycles on the engine/oil/pan/o-rings. Haven't had a problem.
 
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