[RLTW1988]

I have a 1989 F350 4x4 with the Dana 60 monobeam front axle. Recently I heard a grinding noise in the front right wheel. I identified it as the brake caliper grinding inside the wheel, and found that the cause of the extra play in the wheel was that all 8 studs were free spinning in the hub. I limped it a mile home to the driveway and once I had a day off work, spent the entire day with an extractor kit and my drill removing the old lug nuts and studs so that I could get the tire off. I was hoping that the studs were bad, but once I tried to anchor brand new OEM studs in the hubs I confirmed that the hubs were actually throated out, for lack of a better term, so the knurling on the studs had no solid grip. I then made the unfortunate discovery that the wheel hubs (centric part number 124 65.002) were discontinued. I have ordered them from dealers and wholesalers several times, only to have the dealers come back to me and say that their inventory systems were incorrect, and they cannot get the part (complete with refund and apology of course). I don't have the time to chase them around scrap yards all over NC, and centric estimates they won't have more until March.

My solution to get the truck back on the road is to step up the size of the knurling on my studs and get everything else as close as possible on the studs. So my question is, has anyone done a similar fix before? How well did it work and what measurements were most important to match the studs/bolts? Each of the holes in my hub seem to be at slightly different levels of wear, so can I utilize JB weld or some similar product? I'm using Dorman's database and have a few likely candidates but I want a sanity check from some more experienced folks in this area if they're available.

Thanks to all who frequent these forums, I'm constantly picking up really solid info here.

 

[klhansen]

If you can't find a replacement hub, you might consider in a pinch, tack welding each of the studs in place. I'd only do this if you're sure that there is some resistance as you insert each stud so they're centered. The head of the stud serves to hold the tension when tightened. The knurling is to resist turning when torqued, and the tack weld would serve that purpose. You'd have to do this off the truck, with the hub bolted to a wheel at least snugly to be sure the studs were seated all the way. Then hit each one with an arc welder in a couple of spots.

To those who are aghast at my suggestion, it's only a last resort. Lots of us have seen sketchier repairs.

 

[RLTW1988]

Well I am replacing both rotors and inspecting u joints while I have everything apart. I am having trouble pressing the lug studs out of the hub that is still good. Soaking it on pb blaster overnight to tackle again tomorrow. I have decided the track welding is the best solution for the worn out hub. Should I have that done on the head inside the rotor, or to the shank where it protrudes from the hub on the outside? I've attached a couple pictures of my homemade press process for inserting new studs without torquing them. Another forum user suggested that I not reuse studs once removed, but the old ones look fine. Any thoughts on that? The studs can be a pain to track down and the cost is adding up.

 

[klhansen]

Looking at your picture, I now realize that you wouldn't be able to weld the studs on the inside, as the rotor is cast iron. I don't think I'd try to weld them to the hub on the outside where the wheel seats as there may not be enough clearance for the wheel lug holes. Are the knurled portions of the studs spaced away from the head? Maybe you could post a picture of them.

On later trucks (such as my '99) the rotors are sandwiched between the hub and the wheels, so are easy to remove. And the hub is steel instead of cast iron, so welding would be a possibility on the back side. I thought yours might be the same configuration, but your picture indicates that's not the case.

I would not reuse wheel studs after they've been driven out. So to get them out, just use your trusty BFH. Much easier than doing it with a c-clamp.

It sounds to me that you should try to get a replacement hub so the studs will seat properly.

 

[RT]

Tack welding on cast won't be an issue. I've done it thousands of times. The problem with cast would be a structural weld or welding long enough that a preheat would be required for expansion issues. I'm with Kevin. Put the studs in, put the rotor on, and run the lug nuts down using washers as needed if the threads aren't long enough. Then flip it over and tack it. Since this is a hub centric vehicle, is consider this a permanent repair.


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