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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Nice looking unit. They are very similar in size to two gunburners I have out back. Both mine have dead ignition transformers so I'd be curious to learn how you do the adaption. On mine the ignition transformers are big brutes of things and they use the force of the fan to actually blow the spark into the path of the vapor. I'd not realized spark could be affected by the breeze quite to this extent till I saw it!

I'm not preheating the stack, I'm proposing to preheat the ingoing feedstock with waste heat from the stack.
 

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I am planing to mount electrodes in the burner before the area were the fuel gets atomized, then the fan will blow the spark into the atomized fuel. Do not know how the electrodes will be isolated yet.
I was thinking a vehicle coil, relay and capacitor to boost the spark, but don't know if the spark would be the right strength.
I have a box full of new 115/230v transformers but don't know how or if they can work in a different design and will have to ask a electrician.

Electrics is not my thing but the car coil system is basic and cheap to experiment with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
The electrodes are ceramic insulated. The original ignitions continuously spark as opposed to a car which is spark-spark-spark. I think the burners are set so they spark till the atomized fuel is ignited and when the sensor sees the flame, it quits sparking. I could be wrong though as I'm not an expert. While on the subject take a look at this Beckett burner manual It has lots of useful info including suitable combustion chamber dimensions to suit the GPH firing rate.

I'm about to revise my retort sensor probe set up. I need to be sampling the exact temperature the liquid is rather than a probe at the top which isn't in the liquid at all. This signal will be made to turn the flame up or down. So I need a 1.2m+ long mineral insulated thermocouple.
 

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I tried my burners today for the first time and realized that its not variable speed units.
They did not atomize very well and struggled to burn even with a flaming cloth as a ignition. I had to bent the retention head plates to get better wind swirl before anything happened.
I used waste engine oil mixed with petrol and later tried with pump diesel, what I can say is the fuel will have to be heated and be very well atomized for it to start up/burn.
It would be better to run the burner at a lower more constant heat, rather than switching on and off. If the modified/custom ignition don't ignite the burner there could be trouble when oil/diesel keep on running into the combustion chamber and later igniting.
Burning a permanent gas flame as ignition is another option.
Here is another very similar and useful site, it gives chamber sizes in different shapes. http://ncoilheat.org/publications/OILClassManual2013.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
I need to do more study but it might be that these burners run a light weight diesel or a kerosene. If you go to blend a batch, make it to a specific gravity. Kero is .78SG ~ .82SG. Diesel no.2 .82SG ~ .85SG.
See my test equipment page for the how to.

Definitely you need to have good control of the retort temperature. I believe these burners switch on/off to a thermostat but you may be able to vary the fuel pressure as a means of some control. Normally though the air control is set for a specific amount of fuel.
Else a smaller nozzle would make less heat but it will impact on the initial warm up period as well.

Yes, there is startling explosions as unburnt fuel suddenly ignites. It can be hair raising to say the least. Ignition needs to be reliable or in my case I sometimes run some coal for embers which makes ignition. It's a bit tedious so electrical auto-ignition is the way to go.

The gas flame thought may not work because the burner fan will blow it out.

Good news, today I picked up another gun-burner from a scrap yard. $20.
Said to be a runner as well.
 

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Excaliber, I have followed you from the youtube view for over a year and a half. First seem by a smokeonthequarter download. I haven't seen your updates and comments since July and wonder if you still are making fuel runs. I have been collecting the necessary components to build a system of my own. Question? Do you have photos of your burner/turk or furnace burner setup recently that control's your heat flow?
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Hi there,
with the reduction in diesel prices work has been suspended on the project. My bet is prices won't stay down for long, so I'm certain to resume at some stage.
I updated the page on the burner with some more pics from earlier on. Fuel from waste oil and plastic DIY Orion: Turk burner head and Forced draft fan, Orion #2
It's important that the burner heat closely match retort requirements. One can't use unlimited heat because the feedstock would boil over. A vessel can only handle so much applied heat too.
Hope this helps..
 
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