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Discussion Starter #41
Well, we are finally back to working on this and the tranny is about 1/2 inch away from mounted, but the damn thing won't go in. The bolts thread, but the thing won't move in and we don't want to torque the bolts. The plastic alignment tool moved in and out, but I must say when we double checked it today, it took a good bit of force to remove the plastic tool. Thoughts?
 

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You are correct in your assessment. The front shaft is supported by the front bearing and the pilot bearing. Out of the truck, it only has the one bearing supporting it, so there will be play at the end of the shaft and that is completely normal.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
ok, tranny is mated up. We had to drop it and back it out again. We loosened the pressure plate and pushed up on the clutch a touch. This made it so that the plastic tool could slide in and out like butter. We then tightened the bolts and kept making sure the tool was still nice and loose. Once we did this, tranny went in pretty smooth. We will likely get the cross member bolted up and call it a night. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #44 (Edited)
I am having difficulty getting the slave back into the tranny. It seems I cannot get it in far enough to twist. I know it is easy when new because it is tied up from the factory. But, once the plastic snaps break you have to push to compress the rod. Do I just need to push harder or is there a trick here? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
I got it in, just was not pushing quite hard enough. Now for my latest question. What it the adhesive that is between the tranny and the shift linkage? I seem to have some sort of gray silicone or something. Any idea what should be there?
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Yep, that is what I ordered. I used a post you made back in 2007 to see what the Ford Spec was and then cross referenced it to Permatex and Anaerobic gasket maker is the correct product. You guys have all been very helpful. I have other stuff going and I am not a master mechanic. I am taking my time and she should be back up and running this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Lol, I am not sure I will ever finish this. The only thing left is the shift boot and top of transmission. I have the anaerobic gasket maker. But, the directions call for Permatex surface prep and activator. I ordered it and it will be here on Sunday. Ugh. BTW, anybody know the proper torque for the rear u-joint bolts? Thanks again guys.
 

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BTW, anybody know the proper torque for the rear u-joint bolts? Thanks again guys.
The bolts on the t-case output flange are 76 ft-lb. The smaller strap type u-joints get 26 ft-lb.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Thanks!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Thank you to everyone. The truck is back on the road. It seems to shift fine and behaving well. However, there is clearly more noise now with the truck in neutral and idling with foot off the clutch. This noise improves greatly when I push the clutch in and even better when I then put it in gear. I am wondering if the style of throwout bearing is making more noise. What I took out had a plastic body and the new one is all metal. Thoughts?
 

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It's probably the new clutch disk being stiffer than the old one (different springs in the center). The ZF6 is known for making a lot of noise, because of the mass of the gears and the torsional vibration of the diesel. It's called gear rollover noise. A much softer clutch disk center reduces it.

With the tranny in neutral, the counter gear is rattling around, being driven by the engine. With the clutch disengaged, it's not seeing the torsional vibration although there may be some movement of the counter gear, and with it in gear, the gears in the tranny are completly stopped.

Try idling around a parking lot in 1st gear. You'll probably get people looking at you like they expect something to fall off the truck. Mine is fairly noisy. It's just the nature of the beast.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
This is different than the classic ZF rattling in 1st gear. That I a very familiar with since 2001. The odd thing is that this morning I started it up and worked the clutch in and out and it sounded factory new. When I went for a short test drive yesterday, it sounded perfect. But, after a longer drive, this rotational noise in neutral started. It is gone this morning. But, I did not go for a drive. So, it is odd. The old T/O bearing had grime around it and did not just pop out of the arm, it took a little torqueing and wiggling. The new one dropped right in and it is metal. That is why I am wondering if that is what it is. All I now know is that it is intermittent.
 

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:shrug03:
Maybe just put your earplugs in and wait till it "wears in". :winking:
 
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