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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My door ajar light stays on all the time. I’ve tested the door ajar switches from the plug at the VSM.
If I test using the ground wire on the plug, the passenger front and rear test ok and driver front and rear have no continuity. If I test the driver side using a ground on the truck, the drivers side has continuity.
Does that mean I have a bad ground somewhere? I have checked the wiring that goes through the door hinge and I don’t find any broken wires. Where do I go from here?
 

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If you supply a ground, does the light go off?
 

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What year is your truck? I’ll have to pull up the schematics. Meanwhile, saturate the door lock with WD-40 and work the latches. That’s usually all it takes to loosen them up and get the door ajar to go away.


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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
What year is your truck? I’ll have to pull up the schematics. Meanwhile, saturate the door lock with WD-40 and work the latches. That’s usually all it takes to loosen them up and get the door ajar to go away.


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2003. Thanks, I appreciate it. I already tried WD-40, no luck.
 

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OK - finally got the wiring schematics. It looks like the driver's door is on one circuit and the other three doors are on one circuit. The reference voltage comes from the instrument cluster. The door lock mechanisms have the door ajar switches incorporated in them and when any one of the three on one circuit or the one on the other circuit shows open, it blocks the vREF from being grounded. (Actually, the diagrams don't show if the switch is normally open or normally closed so it could be the opposite.)

At any rate, finding the pink/light blue wire for the three-door group or the light green/yellow for the driver's door and grounding them to the chassis should turn the light off. If it does, then you can investigate which switch is giving you the issue. You may have to do some continuity testing to find a broken wire or there may just be a bad switch that needs replacing or bypassing.
 

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1999 F-250 Superduty 7.3L
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My understanding is that the drivers side door contact inside the door has a known issue with getting stuck in the closed position. Usually, a liberal dose of WD40 will cure the problem, but sometimes it involves disassembling the driver's side door latch and replacing the switch. My truck (1999 7.3) has the same issue, and I usually just wait for the ECU to time out and shut the dome lights down for me. It seems to be a sporadic problem; sometimes the switch works properly, and sometimes it doesn't.
 

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'02 7.3L Excursion 3.73 Warn Hubs AutoTranny
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15 Posts
I was just going to post up this same exact problem.
Door Ajar light is on, parasitic draw from battery is 0.9 Amps and it will kill the batteries in a few days...
I have to keep a Battery Charger on it 24/7 .... does that "Door Ajar" lamp actually draw 0.9 amps?

'02 7.3L Excursion, should be the same as post #1 for wiring.

Just acquired the truck 7/4/2002 so new to me, and no maintenance records.

the Driver's Door has been replaced.... I determined that by the white crayon marks denoting year/make/model and stock number for the door... written on the inside door jamb face of the door.

There is a hole in the A-pillar at the base of the door opening, is there supposed to be a switch there?

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Nothing there on my '99. The switch is built into the door latch.
 
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