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I just bought some aftermarket door lock actuators. How do remove the factory actuators.

Also the aftermarket look nothing like the oem, how have you guys been installing? Any photos? I bought the am actuators from Parts express.com

Any help will be appreciated.
 

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Usally people leave thier stock ones in place and put the aftermarket up a little higher and splice into the factory wiring. I need to do the same thing soon.
 

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I bought oem replacements from Ford. They were not that hard to put in. They were alittle tricky, and took about 1hr each. They basically pop out. They have a clip on the top(i think), and just slide out of a groove on the bottom. I only paid like $40ea. for mine from Ford, since they fit right back in, I think it was worth it.

Good Luck, Greg
 

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Their was a post about door actuators in the General forum and the guys were only paying $5 for 2 and $4 for 4 a very good deal, but i can't find the web page.
 

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I have done one and will be finishing this weekend if I have time, about 30 minutes each side so far. I will take pictures if I remember. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif I left the oem ones on and "piggybacked" the new ones on the rod coming down. very easy if you get the concept. The wires on my 01 that I had to splice were pink and pink/black. Hope this helps.
 

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I REPLACED ALL 4 OF MINE JUST TIE ONTO THE FACTORY ROD AND LEAVE THE STOCK ONES THERE...BE CAREFUL WHEN YOU MOUNT THEM (CLEARANCE PROBS ON REARS)
 

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I done mine with ones from the parts store, A set of 4 cost $26 , and just wire back into your old wiring.
You may have to drill new mounting holes on the inside of the shell but this will be covered by the trim.:thumbsup:
 

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Look up foil fix. And you can take back the actuators. Done 2 of 4 of my doors. Cost time and a few $ for screws.
T
 

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I bought Dorman brand actuators from rockauto. Fit like OE and priced right.
 

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Look up foil fix. And you can take back the actuators. Done 2 of 4 of my doors. Cost time and a few $ for screws.
T
I'd have to +1 this. I did the foil fix on my actuators (technically the actuator motors). I think I spent a grand total of 3 hours and ~$1.50 on screws+JB Weld. 4 Years and 58k miles later the actuators are still working splendidly. I'm glad I didn't spend money on new actuators.


The only thing I would do differently than he does in the video is make sure you don't damage the brushes in the electric motor. He used the brushes as a pivot point while removing the resistor from the motor. That's probably how he killed the motor on his driver's side door. Additionally, I did the "wrap the resistor in foil" method and it only needs 1 layer of foil. You can't fit more than 1 layer in that small space anyway.

If you're curious as to why this happens in the actuator motor, the little plate is a PTC Thermistor. As current passes through the thermistor to the motor, the thermistor heats up slightly causing it to become more resistive (read: less electricity is allowed to pass through it the hotter it gets). This is designed to protect the actuator motor from overheating. The problem that occurs in our actuator motor is that the thermistor, as it transitions from warm and slightly resistive to cooled and almost non-resistive over and over, it eventually becomes more and more resistive at it's cooled state. Since it becomes naturally more resistive more current is required to pass through it causing more heat generation. This only kills the thermistor faster and faster eventually leading us to our situations: thermistor remains in a completely resistive state and the actuators don't work.

If you're worried about your motor dying by doing this mod, don't. If the motor dies then you can replace the actuator (which houses the motor) with the one you were considering in the first place. If you're worried about the motor generating too much heat, I wouldn't. I attached the same motor to the battery directly for ~2 mins. and it was pretty warm to the touch, but not really that hot. I doubt you'll be on your locks for 2 mins. straight anyway. And even if you were on it for more than 2 mins. straight there is only one activity that I can think of that would cause that and it's totally worth burning a motor over. :jester:

EDIT: Just realized, what's with the necro >_>
 

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+1. went to replace actuators today and the vendor sent two driver side actuators. did the foil fix on passenger and it works like a charm. I drilled out the two metal rivets and the plastic ones popped right off with a screwdriver. snapped it back together and secured it with three screws.
 

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You don't have to take half the stuff off the guy in the video does to pull the actuator... I just pealed back the lining and pulled the rods off from the inside. I surprised he didn't end up pulling the doors off the hinges...


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Still its a good write up on how to do the job , and with RT's extra info it will help us all.:thup:
 
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