[veronese1]

Today, my wife & I did the Door Seal Mod.

I purchased the 3/8" Vinyl Tubing from Lowes, 4-20' Lengths for my CC. Total was about $16.00. I live in FL, no worries about the cold.

The door seals come off very easy. Remove the snap in kick plates and the door seal pulls right off the cab seams. No adhesives. Mark where the seam is on the bootom for easier re-installation.

I sprayed some silicone into the open channel on the door seal and used a fish tape to snake thru. Tied a string to the fish tape pulled the string thru, then drilled a small hole on the end of the tubing attached the string and pulled the tubing right thru.

Once I figured out the game plan on the 1st door, each other door only took 10-15 minutes.

It took an hour all together. All the doors close ok, except for the drivers door. That one is really tight. I think it will be ok after the molding & tubing settle a little.

I havent driven the truck, we did the mod after detailing the truck to cover it, as I am leaving for a trip on Tuesday. However, I did have to move the truck from one side of the driveway to the other before covering it, and I can say the cabin is dead quiet. No engine noise at all.

I look forward to driving it when I return. If the drivers door remains too tight, Ill swap that tubing for 5/16" or 1/4".

 

[DZacc]

[ QUOTE ]
Just a FYI. I picked mine up on ebay. here is a link

They call it rubber but I think its latex.

good luck

Big E

[/ QUOTE ]

Please let me know if it is soft and flexible like latex. HD wants $15 for 10' of latex.

DZ

 

[zpd307]

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Just a FYI. I picked mine up on ebay. here is a link

They call it rubber but I think its latex.

good luck

Big E

[/ QUOTE ]

Please let me know if it is soft and flexible like latex. HD wants $15 for 10' of latex.

DZ

[/ QUOTE ]
i just ordered the same thing on ebay last night. the key, i believe, is that it is described as being used for rehab and of course sling shots. it should be perfect. that seems to be a great price compared to what others have posted on paying for latex. i further checked ebay and this what the only one to carry the 3/8 od and 1/4 id hose.

 

[DZacc]

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Just a FYI. I picked mine up on ebay. here is a link

They call it rubber but I think its latex.

good luck

Big E

[/ QUOTE ]

Please let me know if it is soft and flexible like latex. HD wants $15 for 10' of latex.

DZ

[/ QUOTE ]
i just ordered the same thing on ebay last night. the key, i believe, is that it is described as being used for rehab and of course sling shots. it should be perfect. that seems to be a great price compared to what others have posted on paying for latex. i further checked ebay and this what the only one to carry the 3/8 od and 1/4 id hose.

[/ QUOTE ]

Please report back when you receive it.

Thank You
DZ

 

[zpd307]

will do. i cant wait as my drivers door rattles and lets a lot of wind in.

 

[HaulinDuals]

Can someone make any suggestions re: this mod? I did the mod on driver's side first, mostly for rattling doors (SuperCab). Result? Driver's side is hard to shut if windows are closed and both doors (with mod and without) still rattle incessantly. Ideas and suggestions? I sure would like to eliminate those annoying and a liitle embarrassing door rattles. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif THANKS!

 

[jgarden]

I did all the doors with my 9 yr old...and overall it went pretty smooth.

I used my Miller 250 (wire feed MIG) to feed a wire through the weatherstipping, then attached the wire to the tubing, then pulled silicone tubing through. Overall it was an easy mod.

It seemed to quiet down the rig. It is hard to tell as I hadn't driven the truck for 3 days prior to the mod, but I am pretty sure it is quieter.

I do have one issue, the driver's door is pretty hard to close, it now needs a pretty good slamming. Is there a way to modify/adjust the striker so the door is a little easier. Funny, my driver's side doors got a lot tighter, but the psgr side doors did not get tight enough that closing them is any different.

So any adjustment at the striker? Please tell me how?

 

[veronese1]

Exactly the same as my truck. All doors close pretty easily, except for the driver's door.

I may end up going with smaller tubing, i.e 5/16" or 1/4". The driver's door is really tight.

I haven't driven the truck since I did the mod. It has been under the cover in the driveway. Nice and Clean...The only reason I have to drive it right nw is my curiosity. I am trying to hold it at bay...I do not know how much longer I will be successful. I'm hoping until the weekend.

 

[my3wags]

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Just a FYI. I picked mine up on ebay. here is a link

They call it rubber but I think its latex.

good luck

Big E

[/ QUOTE ]

Please let me know if it is soft and flexible like latex. HD wants $15 for 10' of latex.

DZ

[/ QUOTE ]


I just did the job last night. The stuff from Ebay works fantastic. It's very soft and easy to pull through the seal. all four doors took me less than an hour by myself. I just used the methods as mentioned (ie soap and water) and this stuff slid right in.

The truck sounds like new inside. No more rattles. all doors close great. They do however need a little extra umph to close but nothing major.

Good luck guys

Big E

 

[zpd307]

i just got my hose in today from ebay. it is latex, and its the red stuff. its the stuff someone else put a link to. it came in a 50 foot roll. after it was all said and done, i had only had several inches left. it went in way easy. i did not have to lube anything. i used my 1/4 diameter pipe snake, the tubing fit right over it. i just put a little electrical tape on to hold it on. my wife helped hold the seal straight and tight, a must. without her it would have been a pain in the ass. the tubing pulled right through without any problem. just watch out for the hose stretching. otherwise it will jump back inside the seal when you take off the pipe snake and you will have to start all over. it was all done in 40 minutes. i have not driven it at highway speeds yet to see if it was more quiet. the doors did not seem to be much harder to close, by the way i used the 3/8 od 1/4 id latex hose. the drivers door is much tighter, it was loose and rattled before. with a cost over just over 20 bucks, i would say that it would not hurt. by the way, it is 4 bucks cheaper if you wait out the auction. i did not want to and paid the 13.95 plus shipping. ill report back if it really works.

 

[Chinookman]

don't need pics...lol.....the seals will slide off the frame.......roll it out......run the snake thru.......tape the end to the hose......use baby powder...forget the messy soap...blah..blah..blah.....the tubing will slip by easily...and your truck will smell much nicer for a day or two......then insert the edge of the seal onto the frame and work it around the door frame......drink beer....and repeat until your out of doors or beer...... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif

C-man.....

 

[zpd307]

i am pleased with the result. the truck feels tighter now. the inside is a little more quiet, a plus. the wind is not howling through the seal anymore, a big plus. and my drivers door does not rattle going over any little bumps anymore, a huge plus. i damn near feel like i am driving a brand new truck!

 

[jgarden]

I did the mod using silicone tubing (see one of the above posts). My driver's door was difficult to close at that point. Anyhow, the striker is adjustable to about 3/16 of an inch. You will need a Torx 40 socket to do the job. I adjusted the striker about 1/16 and now the door is perfect.

So for those of you with too tight a door after the mod, it is an easy adjustment.

 

[Ottoman]

I did the 3/8 O.D. silicone tubing at first on just the passenger side (as the wife is the one with the pickiest ears). I really didn't see that much of an improvement, and the wife said she actually heard more wind noise at highway speeds. The door was hard to close and it didn't quite line up with the body anymore when it did close. That worried me, so I pulled it out.

Next, I did the 3/8 O.D. latex on just the passenger side and whoa, BIG difference. The door mated up well AND no wind noise. The doors shut just a little bit harder than before, but not too hard – even the 4 and 5 year old kids have no trouble closing the doors. I finished out the truck with the latex and she is WAY quieter now. In my opinion, the latex was significantly better than the silicone - well worth the money.

The frustrating thing is that I now have the bug and want to make it as quiet as possible! I'm not a car stereo aficionado, but I’m curious if the Dynamat stuff would make it even quieter. Has anyone done this? If so, did you just do the doors only? The firewall only? Both? The whole cab?

That stuff isn’t cheap, but it might be worth it if it cuts the noise another half as much as the latex door seal mod did.

 

[w4racing]

Question for the guys who bought the ebay red tubing. Is that latex or silicone? Also have any of you guys put any of the left over tubing in the freezer to see if will have issues in cold weather. I live in IL and the weather can get pretty cold, I was just wondering if I would experience any issues with cracking or freezing or any sort of issue with the tubing when its really cold out.

 

[zpd307]

[ QUOTE ]
Question for the guys who bought the ebay red tubing. Is that latex or silicone? Also have any of you guys put any of the left over tubing in the freezer to see if will have issues in cold weather. I live in IL and the weather can get pretty cold, I was just wondering if I would experience any issues with cracking or freezing or any sort of issue with the tubing when its really cold out.

[/ QUOTE ]
latex, i didnt put it in the freezer to see what it would do. latex is natural rubber and it is very flexible and stretchy, unlike vinyl and possibly silicone. so i would think it would work well in the winter. i guess ill have to see what mn winters will do.

 

[Chinookman]

[ QUOTE ]

The frustrating thing is that I now have the bug and want to make it as quiet as possible! I'm not a car stereo aficionado, but I’m curious if the Dynamat stuff would make it even quieter. Has anyone done this? If so, did you just do the doors only? The firewall only? Both? The whole cab?

That stuff isn’t cheap, but it might be worth it if it cuts the noise another half as much as the latex door seal mod did.

[/ QUOTE ]

Take a look at HUSHMAT.com Hush Mat

They are more reasonable than Dynamat...C-man

 

[RidinHigh00]

im plannin on totally sound deadening my interior...check out http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ this guy did a very good controlled test on all the name brands and from this i have made the decision to use either RAMMat BXT or B-Quiet Extreme...both equal if not better than Dynomat and wayyyy cheaper....check it out

 

[jgarden]

Since the topic has migrated to sound deadeners.....If a person was only going to do one area, where is the most beneficial? A particular portion of the floor, doors, firewall (probably difficult?) ???? Anyone have any idea?

 

[shytbyrd]

Ok, have 40' of silicone tubing on hand. I have an extended cab that has some sort of foam or tubing on top inside the seal (approx. 8 - 12") on the top where the two doors meet. Anyone have any tips on installing the tubing since it seems I can't go all the way through? Is it possible to push it through from each end until I hit whatever is already in there? Any tips or ideas from those that have already done it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.