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105 Posts
Hello all,
I installed my DP Tuner, John Wood Valve Body, new trans filter, and 6.0 cooler last Oct/Nov and just started towing my boat trailer this spring and notice that on 40T and 60T I get one real "hard" shift that is much more noticeable when towing through the mountains. Its somewhat noticeable but not nearly as severe on flat land. When I say its hard, its "annoyingly hard" and I fear a bit for my driveline.
After reading through the site a bit, I *think* that its not really the 1-2, 2-3, or OD shifts but the torque converter locking and unlocking and does seem to happen right around 35-40 mph which is where I understand the TC locks/unlocks.
In stock mode it feels just fine towing the trailer through the mountains. There is no hard "slam" at all. Also on the 80e, 120, 140 settings it feels just fine as well. I have not tried towing in 80e, 120, or 140.
Truck and Trans have 77K miles on it, I've been running Mobil 1 synthetic since around 40K miles. Boat and trailer weigh around 5000 lbs.
I contacted the vendor I bought this from and they want to test it, possibly pull the pan and look for clutch material, and are telling me its most likely my transmission that is the issue and its slipping causing the hard shift. They are reputable but I'm a little hesitant for a couple reasons:
1) How "much" clutch material is too much. The fluid only has a couple thousand miles on it. So how does one define how much clutch material is too much. I would think that much like the motorcycles and such that I work on anything with wet clutches is going to have some material and how much is there is largely dependent upon how many miles, how its driven, mods, etc.
2) If it is the TC locking/unlocking can that tuning be adjusted better? I pretty much baby my truck which doesn't neccessarily exclude the trans from fault. I do understand that the 4R100 has a lot to be desired especially once you start modding, but I'd like to avoid the catch all fix of replacing with a $5K to $6 built trans for now (We'll get there at some point but if I can extend this one for a while longer that would be great.)
Is there something I can do to better diagnose the problem myself so that I can make a more informed decision on what to do here.
Thanks.
I installed my DP Tuner, John Wood Valve Body, new trans filter, and 6.0 cooler last Oct/Nov and just started towing my boat trailer this spring and notice that on 40T and 60T I get one real "hard" shift that is much more noticeable when towing through the mountains. Its somewhat noticeable but not nearly as severe on flat land. When I say its hard, its "annoyingly hard" and I fear a bit for my driveline.
After reading through the site a bit, I *think* that its not really the 1-2, 2-3, or OD shifts but the torque converter locking and unlocking and does seem to happen right around 35-40 mph which is where I understand the TC locks/unlocks.
In stock mode it feels just fine towing the trailer through the mountains. There is no hard "slam" at all. Also on the 80e, 120, 140 settings it feels just fine as well. I have not tried towing in 80e, 120, or 140.
Truck and Trans have 77K miles on it, I've been running Mobil 1 synthetic since around 40K miles. Boat and trailer weigh around 5000 lbs.
I contacted the vendor I bought this from and they want to test it, possibly pull the pan and look for clutch material, and are telling me its most likely my transmission that is the issue and its slipping causing the hard shift. They are reputable but I'm a little hesitant for a couple reasons:
1) How "much" clutch material is too much. The fluid only has a couple thousand miles on it. So how does one define how much clutch material is too much. I would think that much like the motorcycles and such that I work on anything with wet clutches is going to have some material and how much is there is largely dependent upon how many miles, how its driven, mods, etc.
2) If it is the TC locking/unlocking can that tuning be adjusted better? I pretty much baby my truck which doesn't neccessarily exclude the trans from fault. I do understand that the 4R100 has a lot to be desired especially once you start modding, but I'd like to avoid the catch all fix of replacing with a $5K to $6 built trans for now (We'll get there at some point but if I can extend this one for a while longer that would be great.)
Is there something I can do to better diagnose the problem myself so that I can make a more informed decision on what to do here.
Thanks.
