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Those years you generally dont hear the turbo. Once you crank up the fuel screw, it will come to life. It's a typical complaint, don't feel alone there. In case you haven't been to the Low Buck Fuel Rate site I made, I'll copy the highlights:
To the rear of the pump on the top is 2 different allen plugs. The bigger one is the fuel rate, and the smaller is the star wheel, or pre-boost smoke adjustment.To do the fuel you take off the plug with either a 3/8" or 10 mm allen wrench. Now tie up the fuel shutoff sol. or pull cable in the run position and you will see the adjustment screw. You may need to put a brick or such on the accelerator to keep the screw in the right spot under the hole. Break the jamb nut loose with a 3/8" or 10 mm deep socket. A good trick is to use a skinny screwdriver that fits inside the deep socket you just used on the jamb nut. As you hold the nut with the socket, back out the screw(CCW) about 10 turns, then snug down the nut. Now pull out the socket & screwdriver to make sure you didnt go too far. Run the accelerator lever to make sure the screw doesnt come in contact with the pump. If you go too many turns, you'll see what I'm talking about. Then if it's ok, a good snug on the jamb nut and it's done. Note #1: if you get the screw too high, it'll hit the top of the pump and make the rpm stick. Note #2: If you drop the screw inside the pump you can retrieve it easily with a pencil type magnet, and it's not that easy to get out. Untie the shutdown sol. and remove the accelerator weight tool. Under the smaller allen plug is the star wheel. Take the plug off with either a 5/16" or 8mm allen wrench. Spin the star wheel towards the front of the pump(rotate towards the pass side) to increase low end power(smoke)and away for less low end smoke(essentially releasing the tension on the spring inside). The governor spring mods, and accelerator stop screw are the same as the newer 466's described above, except you cant use a Dodge/Cummins P-pump set of governor springs. I'm working on getting a shim to work on these MW pumps. :thumbsup:
 

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when you say ten turns is that ten full 360 degree turns
Yes, that's 10 full turns. You can do just the fuel screw. Likely don't need to mess with the star wheel(smaller plug in the back). The fuel screw alone can make it smoke bad enuf without doing any AFC(star wheel) adjustments.
I'm not allowed to link it, or I'll get banned. Some think I'm advertising, but it's a free site I made as reference material. Here's a hint: type in Low Buck Fuel Rate or Low Buck Diesel Power in a web search, and it should pop up.
I didn't touch on adjusting the gov yet either:lol::jester::thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I did it....... and it helped a bunch.
Way more power. I only did the main fuel screw.
It smokes at low end....by adjusting the smaller star wheel counter clockwise,
Can I tune some of the smoke out??
Its what the truck needed.
Do I need to watch pyro now? if so..How hot - for the exhaust temps?
Thanks
 

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A pyro will help greatly! Keep it under 1600:lol:
Not really, try to stay under 1300-1350 for a sustained pull. It probably wont even break 1150 now. You can get some of the smoke with the star wheel, but you may not be able to get it all gone without backing off the main fuel screw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
A pyro will help greatly! Keep it under 1600:lol:
Not really, try to stay under 1300-1350 for a sustained pull. It probably wont even break 1150 now. You can get some of the smoke with the star wheel, but you may not be able to get it all gone without backing off the main fuel screw.

Sweet thanks......You have been great help:thup::thup:
 
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