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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We are having our 2006 4300 (DT466) towed for the 3rd time. All 3 times same problem: the truck will be driving fine and all of a sudden the truck dies and will not restart. " no sputtering, nothing ... Just quit" (more details below)

(1) August 2015 ... truck was towed back to our place. One of the guys here said that he drained water out of the fuel and the truck started, but then it didn't start next day so we called local mechanic and he checked electrical connectors and found that fuse in battery box was not making connection and shorted. He charged us $200.00. truck ran fine for about 2 months

(2) October 2015 ..... Driver said he driving about 50 mph on 2 lane road when he realized something was wrong because the cruise control stopped. He said the accelerator was slightly responsive a few times but the truck stopped and would not start (even after it cooled off). We had it towed back to the International dealer where we spent over $1000.00 According to the wording on their invoice they did 4 tasks (1) they cleaned the fuel filter system and installed prescreen, replace fuel filter, screen fuel strainer, regulator assembly (2) they "found fuse for IDM burnt need to hard wire the connectors in battery box, by starter and by firewall need to replace the EDM/IDM power cable in the battery box" they did note "hard wire and the truck starts good. (3) one of the fuses shorting out, (4) reinstall drive shaft , installed drive line aired up trucked pushed in shop KT strap kit u-jt strap

(3) November 2015 ..... (Today) Driver was exiting freeway on an uphill ramp when he intentionally disengaged the cruise control. This time the pedal was unresponsive. So we are having it towed back to the International dealer.

Anybody know what is wrong with our truck. Obviously the professionals are clueless.
Thanks

Granny DP
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
After a little research I am wonder about....
1. Could it be the Cam Sensor going bad? (how do you check the cam sensor)
2. Maybe the IPR is stuck or coil is bad (I read you can gently tap it and it will come unstuck) but if so why does it keep sticking?
3. Maybe we need a new IPR Valve.... (how would we know)?
4. maybe we need to replace the HPOP (high pressure oil pump)?
5. If it is wiring to the fuse continually go bad.... why?
6. maybe we need to replace the ECM relay in the fuse box?
7. I read where some guy had problem with his B+ wire because it wasn't conducting.
8. Maybe we are using the wrong engine lube.... gotta find out what we used last.
 

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Wow you hit the bases .
First look in fuel bowl from lots of sediment and an old filter.Note color of fuel.
Regarding cps,, do you have tach needle movement?
Check to see if you have juice on one of the ipr wires.
Take a gander at that stuff.
 

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(3) November 2015 ..... (Today) Driver was exiting freeway on an uphill ramp when he intentionally disengaged the cruise control. This time the pedal was unresponsive. So we are having it towed back to the International dealer
Did driver cancel Cruise by the OFF button or Cruise cancel by braking?

Could the Cruise mechanism be rubbing on a wire harness, like the chain shorting out a wire.

I'd check that IDM fuse again, if it's blown again. No power to IDM, you ain't going anyplace.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Sorry, I didn't get to check out any of your suggestions because it was towed directly to the local international dealer. They just got it "fixed" today (hopefully)
They performed 1 task .... "found ipr faulty pigtail, , cut out old IPR pigtail and wire in new one"

parts $24.91
labor $260.00
misc 5.00
taxes 2.70
total 292.61


Would a bad IPR pigtail cause the problem we were having?
Thanks
Granny DP
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not to any concerning camshaft sensors on 2005+ DT engines.. they rarely if EVER fail anymore. Pre 2005 models they did a lot, but the new updated sensor International sells seems to be holding tougher than previous models...

Just putting this note here for anyone in future reading up.

50% of time losing throttle is because of actual throttle pedal or wiring issues, the other half is HEUI issues.

That model you COULD in fact flash the engine codes through the dash panel to help too.

You always have both cruise switches on both sides of steering wheel, turn key on, make sure parking brake is on, and hit the "up" button on driver side ( on) and the down button on the right side switch, the dash will start showing you ESC (electrical system controller codes) but it will also flash the engine codes at you using the check engine light. Each code is a sequence of 3. A 111 code means there are no active codes, then after that code it should show inactive codes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Original Poster Update : We ended up replacing the fuel tank and it has run fine since end of November. Crossing my fingers because it went from August to October without a problem. We experienced the problem in August and then Oct and Nov. so I would not be shocked if this didn't fix it and it happened again


Wow you hit the bases .
First look in fuel bowl from lots of sediment and an old filter.Note color of fuel.
Regarding cps,, do you have tach needle movement?
Check to see if you have juice on one of the ipr wires.
Take a gander at that stuff
.
Hey DieselNick, based on your words I am going to suggest that we always get the filter from our mechanic or do the jobs ourself. Please see my post about rusted fuel tanks dated 1-14-2016. I sure would like your wisdom.

Thanks
Granny DP
 
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