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I believe the UG is a shortened RUG- Regular Unleaded Gasoline. Used as a thinning agent
 

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correct rug is regular unleaded gas.. UG was a typo
 

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Do a search of this forum. There is a WMO how to thread that I wrote awhile back that many off us have repeatedly asked to be made a sticky. You will find just about everything you need to know in that thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well thanks for cluing me in!!!! I am looking at a 99NPR that has sat for 2 years with only 130,000 miles on it. I tinkered with it and got it to spin over but I got scared to keep cranking since the batteries on it were off my e350 parked along side it. LOL. I think the cables need cleaned at the starter since it clicked alot before it turned over. I ask, is there any serious issues other than obvious fliud/filter changes needed if I get this thing running? And, is it possible to power something as complex as this Isuzu with waste oil????
 

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UG is a caveman word, used when male bonding rituals are performed around a barbeque!

"Ug! Meat! Fire! Beer! Ug!"

On this forum it could also be mis-interpreted as Unleaded Gasoline!

:thumbsup:Much better explanation than mine
 

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Well thanks for cluing me in!!!! I am looking at a 99NPR that has sat for 2 years with only 130,000 miles on it. I tinkered with it and got it to spin over but I got scared to keep cranking since the batteries on it were off my e350 parked along side it. LOL. I think the cables need cleaned at the starter since it clicked alot before it turned over. I ask, is there any serious issues other than obvious fliud/filter changes needed if I get this thing running? And, is it possible to power something as complex as this Isuzu with waste oil????
Isuzu NPR's are powered by a 4BD1 or 4BD1T [ if it's turbo ] there are variants eg: 4BD2T which had electronic timing control but still mechanical IP.
early versions were IDI then they switched to DI but intercooler models went back to IDI.
They're good for 1/2million miles [ then re-sleeve again ] have about 135hp [intercooled] and 395ft/lbs.
They are basically a Jap Cummins [4BT1 vs 4BD1] and respond to all the same mods as a Cummins.[ both are 3.9Liter ]
Put a bigger "snail" on it , and "turn up the wick" and it'll get a reliable 200-250hp and 530+ ft/lbs.
Thats enough grunt to pull the neighbours house off the foundations!

The Aussie Army swapped these engines into Land Rovers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Isuzu NPR's are powered by a 4BD1 or 4BD1T [ if it's turbo ] there are variants eg: 4BD2T which had electronic timing control but still mechanical IP.
early versions were IDI then they switched to DI but intercooler models went back to IDI.
They're good for 1/2million miles [ then re-sleeve again ] have about 135hp [intercooled] and 395ft/lbs.
They are basically a Jap Cummins [4BT1 vs 4BD1] and respond to all the same mods as a Cummins.[ both are 3.9Liter ]
Put a bigger "snail" on it , and "turn up the wick" and it'll get a reliable 200-250hp and 530+ ft/lbs.
Thats enough grunt to pull the neighbours house off the foundations!

The Aussie Army swapped these engines into Land Rovers.
Awesome. Thanks. I know it is a turbo motor, but I thought there were 5.2l versions. Am I wrong? At any rate I don't know if I'll ever see 500,000 miles since I drive about 10k a year. But that is good to know. SInce it did spin over fine, is there any reason to think if I had just kept cranking it would have started? Should I put some diesel additive in it? Thanks again.
 

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Awesome. Thanks. I know it is a turbo motor, but I thought there were 5.2l versions. Am I wrong? At any rate I don't know if I'll ever see 500,000 miles since I drive about 10k a year. But that is good to know. SInce it did spin over fine, is there any reason to think if I had just kept cranking it would have started? Should I put some diesel additive in it? Thanks again.

The 6 cyl version is the 6BD1T [ 6BG1T is industrial only ] , basically the same engine with 2 extra cylinders , they are 5.8 liter . 195 hp and about 560 ft/lbs.
The 5.2 versions [actually 5.4] were a 6BB1, they had shorter stroke crank and are late 70's early 80's engines
Again they're all Jap Cummins [ 4BD1 and 6BD1 vs 4BT1 and 6BT1 for the Cummins ]
The 6 cylinders are a large engine weighing almost 1000lbs but have enough torque to pull a building inside out.
A swap would be similar to a Cummins except the exhaust is on the other side [ originally for RHD in Japan ] , they also have a SAE bellhousing pattern, so a NV transmission might fit.
Most are 24v so if it doesn't start, check the solenoid on the pump that switches on a fuel lever [ you can also convert these to cable, if you have a 4x4 that likes to go swimming ]
To "kick it in the Guts" [kiwi slang] give it a sniff of "white spirits" which is safer to use with glowplugs.

Only 10k / year, the Isuzu should see you through to 2061
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The 6 cyl version is the 6BD1T [ 6BG1T is industrial only ] , basically the same engine with 2 extra cylinders , they are 5.8 liter . 195 hp and about 560 ft/lbs.
The 5.2 versions [actually 5.4] were a 6BB1, they had shorter stroke crank and are late 70's early 80's engines
Again they're all Jap Cummins [ 4BD1 and 6BD1 vs 4BT1 and 6BT1 for the Cummins ]
The 6 cylinders are a large engine weighing almost 1000lbs but have enough torque to pull a building inside out.
A swap would be similar to a Cummins except the exhaust is on the other side [ originally for RHD in Japan ] , they also have a SAE bellhousing pattern, so a NV transmission might fit.
Most are 24v so if it doesn't start, check the solenoid on the pump that switches on a fuel lever [ you can also convert these to cable, if you have a 4x4 that likes to go swimming ]
To "kick it in the Guts" [kiwi slang] give it a sniff of "white spirits" which is safer to use with glowplugs.

Only 10k / year, the Isuzu should see you through to 2061
Appreciate the input. Really. What are these "spirits" of which you speak? Corn Liquor???? I aint got no shine in these here parts. Ha.
 

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Appreciate the input. Really. What are these "spirits" of which you speak? Corn Liquor???? I aint got no shine in these here parts. Ha.

Haha! I haven't tasted 'shine since I was a 13year old kid, when my dad gave me a taste after a stockcar meeting. [ even in NZ this sort of activity went with stockcar racers ]

The "white spirits" needed for sniffing the diesel engine is a purified mineral turpentine. [ the best is used by tire shops to soften rubber for vulcanising ] just tip a "bottle cap" full down the intake hose
White spirits is safer than ether or gasoline!
It gets really exciting when ether hits the glow-plugs while the intake valve is still open.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Haha! I haven't tasted 'shine since I was a 13year old kid, when my dad gave me a taste after a stockcar meeting. [ even in NZ this sort of activity went with stockcar racers ]

The "white spirits" needed for sniffing the diesel engine is a purified mineral turpentine. [ the best is used by tire shops to soften rubber for vulcanising ] just tip a "bottle cap" full down the intake hose
White spirits is safer than ether or gasoline!
It gets really exciting when ether hits the glow-plugs while the intake valve is still open.
Cool beans! Yea, 'white lightnin' shouldn't even have much taste if it's the good stuff. At least that's what they tell me. I'll try the mineral spirits if I can find it. I might not need it either. So who knows. BTW. I did thin some old motor oil this morning with a lil 87 unleaded. I eyeballed it between 10-15% total volume. I strained it through a paint strainer and dumped it in the ol 7.3idi. Not even a change. I got a guy down the street with a garage who has to pay for waste oil pick up. I've spoken to him and he's cool giving me some. Just tell em you want it for a fuel oil heater for your house. Nobody's gonna ask twice........
 
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