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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey guys I am going to start off saying my grammar sucks
I am new to the diesels just bought my first one for $700 old plow truck
1993 Ford F250 7.3L Non Turbo =(
124K on the dash
4WD
Lots of Rust came with it


Only real problems that came with the truck was rotted out break lines, rust, hard starts, /trans wont shift


1)Break lines I fixed already


2) Rust still there


3)hard starts I changed my glow plugs now light stays on for proper amount of time and truck starts up fine


3) trans.... nothing but problems been doing a lot of research on different pages everyone keeps telling me that it is a electrical issue


Symptoms: Colum shifter is a little jacked up due to it being a plow truck drive reverse respectively
Shifts into 1 and works fine
Shifts into 2 and works fine
Shifts into Neutral fine
Reverse works fine


But when you put it in to Drive it will not shift out of 1st gear is there anyone here that has had this problem and can help me out or point me in the right direction I was told I have a crap transmission and its equivalent the pile crap that Chrysler uses the 42RE
 

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Read the codes for sure. Click on Marks " Fords OBD", color should be Blue but since the forum has changed it's brown.

Your Tach and speedo has to be working.
 

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It's that big hex with wires coming from it right in front. On or beside (I don't remember without going out to look) the IP gear cover.
 

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The Engine RPM sensor is like you said next to the IP and reads off the timing gear. At this point I've replaced my Engine RPM sensor (most places refer to it as a cam shaft sensor), VSS, MLPS, BO/OS, and the FILPS. I also found the tail light was out. She runs a lot better than when I got her, but... Every once in a while she'll drop out of gear and 3rd and 4th really aren't smooth. My FILPS is set at 1.18v to 3.8v with a new sensor and connector. Even after leaving the truck over night with terminals disconnected I'm still getting the code 23...? Could it be a bad harness? I haven't checked the PCM connection yet but got the code 11...
 

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Code 23 means you didn't hold the accelerator on the floor when you ran the key on engine off test.
 

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Makes sense. I'm doing it by myself so I'd start the test then jump in the cab to get on the accelerator, it was toast before hand. I found the last FILPS was at 1.6v.
 

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I'm in the same spot you are. I have a kid that will help though. He can do the dirty work when I change my brake fluid too. :)
 

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I'm 90% at this point, my torque converter is shot. I got to take another look when I have time. I'm thinking all the hard shifting from the sensors being out and the truck sitting for a while was too much on the converter and now toast :(
 

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It engages in gear, but won't upshift. How did you come to the conclusion it's your torque converter? The converter isn't involved with making trans shift, so how could this be the problem?
 

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My FILPS is set at 1.18v to 3.8v with a new sensor and connector. Even after leaving the truck over night with terminals disconnected I'm still getting the code 23...? Could it be a bad harness? I haven't checked the PCM connection yet but got the code 11...
There is no code 11, either you miss counted or it's just a random code that came up. I would set the idle voltage down a little, volt meters have a + - percent reading depending on the quality of meter. Try it at .99 or 1.0.
IDI diesels only have these codes available.
Codes 26-65-67-49-56-59-62-66-69-91-92-93-94-99 all related to the transmission, code 47 indicates the it's switched to 4WD, code 67 indicates your AC is switched ON, turn it OFF, code 23 is like Mark said, it's a service code.
 

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Yeah chuckster, code 11 on some readers is "System OK" meaning the reader has a connection I think.
 

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Held the IP at WOT instead of the pedal and ran the test. No code 23 and got the 11 and 10. So good to go! Talked to a relative who used to be a tech rep in a trans shop; just experiencing a shift flare for any number of reasons.
 
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