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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So,
Was pulling an excavator back to rental place on Friday. Brother was driving my IDI and got about 20 minutes into the drive and noticed that temp guage was maxed out. Stopped for 5 minutes and decided to keep going because it was only approximatly 10 minutes to the place. I know this was not the best decision but he had to get back to work. I forgot about the above 3000 rpm pulling tip so that contributed to the overheat. QUESTION: is this normal? We were pulling about 6500 pounds very few, slight hills. Kept it mostly out of overdrive doing about 1800-2300 rpm. Does this indicate a bad thermostat or was it just the operator? It never overheated before(drove it home from 2 hours away) and cooled to lower half of temp. zone after trailer was off. Oh, the overdrive DOES work.


OK-now the bad problem. When we got to the rent place, I noticed a nice pool of some atf under the tranny. (funny- a newb there thought it was offroad diesel and got all worked up about it) It was leaking bad. Maybe a drip or more a second. half hour drive home it did fine and didnt even slip. Checked oil level and looked fine. Checked the next morning and still looked fine. Went on a hour long WVO run and leaked again. Got it home and up in the barn, took the plate thats on the front of the transmission off. That is where its leaking, the space where the engine goes to the torque convertor. Fearing a cracked TC but cant tell till I separate the tranny. I think the intense heat ruined something. IDEAS?



To clarify things, BASICALLY: the torque convertor acts as a flywheel and ATF pump, no? Pumps it to the valve body which actuates hydraulic pistons to move the planetary gear system. This is what i have gathered so far so correct me if im wrong.


All in all what are the possible problems with the transmission? Cracked lines, or TC?

Thanks~! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 

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Your leak is coming from the torque converter to front pump seal. The hotter the rubber gets, the softer it gets and eventually the fluid pressure pushes past.

Quote: To clarify things, BASICALLY: the torque convertor acts as a flywheel and ATF pump, no? Pumps it to the valve body which actuates hydraulic pistons to move the planetary gear system. This is what i have gathered so far so correct me if im wrong.

No, the torque converter is a fluid coupling, it connects the motor to the transmission through the input shaft. The outside of the torque converter is a mechanical coupling and drives the front pump which supplies hydraulic pressure to the trans systems.

At a minimum you should replace the front pump seal, the front pump bushing and the trans fluid and filter.

Your overheating may have been caused by a clogged radiator, which can transfer the heat of the truck itself, but cannot transfer the heat from the additional load of the trailered excavator. You can easily see a clogged radiator by draining the coolant till the top tank is empty, and looking for mineral deposits on / in the radiator tubes.

A second possibility is a defective fan clutch, but in my experience this will only cause overheating at low speeds (under 40 mph). At speeds higher than that the ram air effect flows enough air for cooling. I don't know if this applies since I don't know the tow speed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for replying,

I would like to do these things with the tranny in-truck. It is lifted and i am small so its easy for me to work under it. If i can get it to pull back enough that is. We were cruisin about 55-60 miles an hour. 40 miles or under for the first 5-10 minutes or so. I thought the fan might not be engaging too but havent checked yet.


Also- Can you make it known to me what tools i need to replace those? I have about every basic tool and some more advanced ones, no slide hammer.
 

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If the over heating was caused by a bad stat or restricted radiator the tranny may over heat because the tranny cooler is in the bottom of the radiator. The front seal on the tranny might be ruined(once over heated they are weak and will generally leak at a very low temp) and to replace it the tranny has to be pulled back about 6 or 8 inches so you can remove the torque converter. The only thing that could maybe be left hooked up is the wiring so you just as well slide it out where you can work on it easier.
 

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Heres is my two cents... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

First you have to remove the driveaxel (loosen two U bolts on the back axsel side of it and then pull it out of tranny...) then loosen the cross member in the rear of the tranny and then all (4 or 6 ) studs in the TC to free it from the flywheel. (Use a pry tool or a big flat screw driver and push the fly whel until you see the bolt, repeat that until you have taken them all off. (You have to bring down the TC too, coz aligning the TC with the gerator pump is close to hopeless when you put it back up...) Then you have to unhook the shifter asembly on the driver side of tranny (Be carefull with this when you lower the tranny, coz it is easy to bend this rods and get funny shifting afterwords...) and then disconnect the smal hoses for the cooler. (It sips oil out of it so considder yourself warned /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif ). It is rather easy to hook off all the electric wires so I recomend that you do that. You never know, maybe the tranny tips over or something like that and then, suddenly, you have a set of overstreched wires that may or may not work.... Unhook the manuel lever position sensor too, (MLPS), or you might end up doing the same thing as me when I crushed it and had to buy a new one. (Not that it matted, coz I would have done bought it anyway, but it is reather expensive so if you don't need to buy a new one...... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
And offcause you have to remove all the bolts in the bell housing and remove the govenor wire that sits close to the speedo wire at the tranny rear end...

I have done this 5 times by now and the first time I did it I even removed the exhaust pipes... and was forced to weld them back on afterwords!! (They where really stuck so I had to cut them off...)

I have had a major rebuild on the tranny just because it was sipping oil, just like your tranny, and I had changed every single oil seals in this tranny, but it still sips oil /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif.... So I have started to suspect the inner gerator, or pump wheel, the end play was maybe a little to mush...... Time will show, when I bring it down again.... The weight on this thing is hardly anything /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif, I'll roughly guess it about 75 kilos.... So good luck to ya!!

Hope you find it! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Best regards
Hans Petter
 

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orrrrr---the stock trans cooler is JUNK---in the later years--same trans--they went to a stacked plate cooler---better than the aftermarkets-----get a 99 up trans cooler--had oil coming out my front trans seal--let it cool down--no leak--ritcher69 said to get that stock cooler off---got one off a 99 smoke--threw the old away--no more problems!!!!!!!!!! and didnt ruin the tq seal either----
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OK,

Got tranny out today and going to rip into it soon. I have absolutly no experience ordering seals/parts because i always made my own for my tractor. I found a pump seal made from viton brand material but couldnt find too much more. I would much rather order from a warehouse than go through a stealership or a parts store, personal reasons. Any good recommendations? Thanks!
 

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I like to buy that stuff from the local transmission rebuilder, they know more about what parts work and don't than anybody else.
 
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