Just got mine back from having this done along with a bunch of front-end work and up pipes, rear case seal, needs a few more things but totally was worth it.
E4od issues
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The EOT sensor is by the IPR valve. Cheers!
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What are you using to read the codes? I've never seen a mess that bad before.
Mark I got the reader off that link you sent me. I do not have a pc so I got the one for my iPhone.
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Patrick I ordered a new EOT sensor and probably soon a new IPR valve also. I’m trying to replace most common issue items so maybe I will not have to worry about them for a while.
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I've never seen a readout like that. I don't know what to make of it.
The one code that I found in that mess that does affect the trans is the P0500 code. That means the PCM isn't seeing the vehicle speed signal from the sensor on top of the rear differential. Quite often the problem is a damaged wire between that sensor and the PCM, but it could be the sensor itself, too.
The one code that I found in that mess that does affect the trans is the P0500 code. That means the PCM isn't seeing the vehicle speed signal from the sensor on top of the rear differential. Quite often the problem is a damaged wire between that sensor and the PCM, but it could be the sensor itself, too.
I will trace down the wires that go back to it and look them over. If I don’t see anything i will swap the sensor with another that I have.
I have been wrong many many times but when those codes pulled up again just like when I first read the codes. I thought, makes me wonder if my computer is still not right, but it doesn’t seem to affect my engine. I would think if it was my computer the engine would act different when this happens also.
Trans was leaking badly, obviously not good. Very obviously (even on the lawn buying it) the trans was bad. Didn't have the heart to tell the guy, I was just after my base vehicle! "truck has zero issues" my ass lol! Slow to shift, jerked hard when shifting, or wouldn't get out of 2nd.
Also had bad up pipes like I mentioned, that made a WORLD of difference replacing the factory ones with all metal pipes. Runs great now, actually still needs a turbo rebuild, but would be fine for awhile.
The only thing left is that the steering is not what I would love, even after a bunch of front-end work, BUT the tires are super old and crappy so one of the next things is to replace them!
Drives great down the highway tho. Just has a small dead spot and since they don't know how to properly bank roads in the western US anymore you have to hold the wheel to go up the highway. (one side of each lane is almost always 3-6 inches height variant from the other side)
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Looking the wires over is almost always a waste of time. Don't bother. Get a meter. Disconnect the PCM and the vehicle speed sensor. While probing the BACK of each connector, check both wires for continuity, short to power, and short to ground.
Glad to see I’m not the only one with a passion to try and bring one of these trucks back to a better life. Sounds like you are on a good path to a good truck. Hope you get it to where you want it.
Mark I will do this as soon as I get some extra time to do it. Thank you for your time and advice.
It almost is, really, I'm just after reliability. It came with a front mount intercooler but is otherwise a stock motor. I wanted a 4x4 that could pull decently and the reliability of diesel but a new diesel F-250 is like 80 grand. So I got the truck and fixed it up and I'm in about 14, by the time I'm done I'll be in about 20, but I'll have a good running diesel F-250 that I otherwise could not afford to own. (plus there is no e-check on this vehicle in my state, which is what ended my 94' AWD Astro build)
One important thing, if you do decide to get your transmission replaced, make sure that as soon as they drop the transmission, they check the back of the engine block for cracks. There's no other way to inspect for that and if the block is cracked (not common but can happen with higher mile 7.3) then it might not be a saver.
ALSO! If you need up pipes! With the transmission out it is basically zero labor to replace them from the bottom (the shop told me and didn't charge me so I assume that is true).
It is worth paying a reputable shop a $100 full-vehicle diagnostic fee if you don't already know every single issue. I had 3 of them done by different shops (2 for free) before deciding on what work to have done.
I’m in the same position, getting a good truck without a house payment. Thanks for the heads up on the back of the engine and head pipes. Im sure that mine need to be replaced also. Yes I’m starting to think the same way that I need to take it somewhere. I will probably pull the harness out and do continuity test first tho before taking it. If you get a chance post a pic of your truck I would like to see it.
Well I don't normally like to show my gear around... too many thieves these days... but in this case I'll do it. Been awhile since I got to talk the shop coz the world changed. Here's the truck,
And here's my half-done power system. Need to build a wooden rack to fit it all. Has alternator tie in through firewall, going to put a flexible solar on the hood. So the truck will charge house batteries and starter from solar and alternator both. It has enough power on the house bank (pictured) that it can run its own block heater and jump-start itself (if somehow both jumper packs that it keeps charged don't work).
It also has a dedicated cell phone (can track the location instantly from my phone and see the interior through the camera) and wimo plugs so I can voice-activate the block heater with google/alexa, and the electric blanket on the drivers seat, and the 500w electric heater to warm up the cab. When I get the stereo swapped from my previous vehicle it will have full alexa auto.
And I already put in the down payment for Starlink...
And after a day of work... taking in solar both ways and charging my tool packs...
Now I got to figure out how to get an extension cord through the firewall. The right hand side plug was enough for 8 gauge but not to get an extension cable through...
You are way ahead of where I am! That charging idea you are doing is ahead of it’s time. I’m super impressed with what you have done. Takes some thinking to get where you are at. I like your rig, reminds me of one of my buddies trucks he use to own. So your charging station, is this just for you or are you thinking of trying to make something to sell on the market?Well I don't normally like to show my gear around... too many thieves these days... but in this case I'll do it. Been awhile since I got to talk the shop coz the world changed. Here's the truck,
View attachment 159114
And here's my half-done power system. Need to build a wooden rack to fit it all. Has alternator tie in through firewall, going to put a flexible solar on the hood. So the truck will charge house batteries and starter from solar and alternator both. It has enough power on the house bank (pictured) that it can run its own block heater and jump-start itself (if somehow both jumper packs that it keeps charged don't work).
It also has a dedicated cell phone (can track the location instantly from my phone and see the interior through the camera) and wimo plugs so I can voice-activate the block heater with google/alexa, and the electric blanket on the drivers seat, and the 500w electric heater to warm up the cab. When I get the stereo swapped from my previous vehicle it will have full alexa auto.
View attachment 159115
And after a day of work... taking in solar both ways and charging my tool packs...
View attachment 159116
View attachment 159117
Now I got to figure out how to get an extension cord through the firewall. The right hand side plug was enough for 8 gauge but not to get an extension cable through...
Started doing this with minivans years ago, I have thought about trying to form a business and even tried to start an LLC but don't have a business address so I'm waiting until I move.
The Renogy DCC-50S is made to go in a vehicle and use the alternator and also manage solar and house banks. Supposed to be used with an RV, but as soon as it hit the market I got one for my minivan and now I've moved it to the truck. DCC50S 12V 50A DC-DC On-Board Battery Charger with MPPT
I would highly recommend even a very low budget form of this type of thing... even with just a cheap inverter and one battery on a isolator will let you run all kinds of stuff from electric blankets (have one on the driver seat now) to lanterns and charge jumper packs, etc... could get away for around 300 total for isolator/12 deep cycle/inverter.
With a buck converter like this Amazon.com: 5A DC-DC Adjustable Buck Converter Reduced Voltage Regulator Power Module 4V - 38V to 1.25V - 36V (4 Pieces): Electronics you can power just about anything that takes batteries or DC input.
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Those don't even look like DTCs to me. The heading says it's a "Log". This is what mine displays when I read Error codes:
From the main page, connect to the vehicle (make sure you're not in simulation mode), tap the red Errors field, then tap the Left triangle (with the magnifying glass) to read DTCs.
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