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Discussion Starter #41
Started doing this with minivans years ago, I have thought about trying to form a business and even tried to start an LLC but don't have a business address so I'm waiting until I move.
The Renogy DCC-50S is made to go in a vehicle and use the alternator and also manage solar and house banks. Supposed to be used with an RV, but as soon as it hit the market I got one for my minivan and now I've moved it to the truck. DCC50S 12V 50A DC-DC On-Board Battery Charger with MPPT

I would highly recommend even a very low budget form of this type of thing... even with just a cheap inverter and one battery on a isolator will let you run all kinds of stuff from electric blankets (have one on the driver seat now) to lanterns and charge jumper packs, etc... could get away for around 300 total for isolator/12 deep cycle/inverter.

With a buck converter like this Amazon.com: 5A DC-DC Adjustable Buck Converter Reduced Voltage Regulator Power Module 4V - 38V to 1.25V - 36V (4 Pieces): Electronics you can power just about anything that takes batteries or DC input.
To bad we weren’t closer, I think we could do a little twist to this and have a really good new product to the market.
Those don't even look like DTCs to me. The heading says it's a "Log". This is what mine displays when I read Error codes:
View attachment 159124

From the main page, connect to the vehicle (make sure you're not in simulation mode), tap the red Errors field, then tap the Left triangle (with the magnifying glass) to read DTCs.
What are you running yours on, PC, IOS, or Android? I’m running mine on an IPhone. The setup on the one I have has a log for codes themselves and a log for possible fixes to the codes. I have ran into a little bit of a hold up on the truck but as soon as I get it fixed i will look at this again.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Looking the wires over is almost always a waste of time. Don't bother. Get a meter. Disconnect the PCM and the vehicle speed sensor. While probing the BACK of each connector, check both wires for continuity, short to power, and short to ground.
Mark, so I switched the vss sensor out yesterday. The one that was on the truck was a cheap plastic style. It’s ohms checked around 1830, the other one appears to be an original Ford all metal kind, it’s ohms checked around 1380. I checked the continuity of the wires with vehicle off. I found it odd that I only got continuity with polarity one way on my meter, I’m assuming that there is a diode in the PCM? I checked for short to ground and both sides checked fine. I’m not sure what you mean by checking short to power? Do you mean just continuity test on power side?

So after changing the sensor I took the truck for a drive. Immediately after pulling out of the drive I could tell a big difference. The trans was shifting very smoothly. So I stopped the truck to check things out since I had changed the engine oil temp sensor and put a trans inspection shield on ( truck didn’t have one when I got it) and noticed some type of a leak. So I went back to the house and was trying to figure out what was leaking. The truck started stumbling and quit running. After a quick check I figured out I’m not getting fuel to the engine anymore. So before I can report back on my trans issue anymore I have to fix this. It might take me a little time because I want to change the system over to electric fuel pump. I never did go WOT on my truck Mark but looking back maybe the VSS sensor and I might have been starving the engine of fuel at WOT caused this issue? I will report back when I get this going again.
 

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What was leaking and where? If it was fuel and leaking down the back of the engine then the mechanical fuel pump is probably the cause. How much fuel do you have in your tanks? You may have a broken fuel tank pick up and you are not getting the last 1/4 to 1/3 of your tank. Easy way to see if that is the case is just to fill the tank you were on when it happened with a few gallons and see if it goes back to running. If it does then you know not to let the tank get low again. I try to never run below 1/4 of a tank anyway. I have ran both of my trucks for a long time with the mechanical pump leaking like crazy until I had the time to finally go ahead and replace it. How did you determine you have no fuel? Did you open the fuel filter housing?
 

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I checked the continuity of the wires with vehicle off. I found it odd that I only got continuity with polarity one way on my meter, I’m assuming that there is a diode in the PCM?
When checking continuity in the VSS wires the wiring harness MUST be disconnected at the VSS and at the PCM. So it won't matter if there are diodes in the PCM or not, it's not plugged into the harness when checking the wires for continuity.

I checked for short to ground and both sides checked fine. I’m not sure what you mean by checking short to power? Do you mean just continuity test on power side?
Check each of the VSS wires (with the harness unplugged at the VSS and at the PCM) for continuity to the positive side of the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
What was leaking and where? If it was fuel and leaking down the back of the engine then the mechanical fuel pump is probably the cause. How much fuel do you have in your tanks? You may have a broken fuel tank pick up and you are not getting the last 1/4 to 1/3 of your tank. Easy way to see if that is the case is just to fill the tank you were on when it happened with a few gallons and see if it goes back to running. If it does then you know not to let the tank get low again. I try to never run below 1/4 of a tank anyway. I have ran both of my trucks for a long time with the mechanical pump leaking like crazy until I had the time to finally go ahead and replace it. How did you determine you have no fuel? Did you open the fuel filter housing?
Yes it was leaking down the back of the engine and I’m gonna guess you are right that it is the mechanical fuel pump. It appears as tho someone before me that had the truck replaced the pump recently. The tank is full to the top. Yes I opened the filter housing up and it was empty. I haven’t had time to really investigate it past this point yet but I will look into it. Thank you for the advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
When checking continuity in the VSS wires the wiring harness MUST be disconnected at the VSS and at the PCM. So it won't matter if there are diodes in the PCM or not, it's not plugged into the harness when checking the wires for continuity.


Check each of the VSS wires (with the harness unplugged at the VSS and at the PCM) for continuity to the positive side of the battery.
Awww, ok that makes sense. Put a little voltage to it to see if it goes to ground in the wiring or frame. I will do this. Thank you Mark.
 

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I would check all the connections off the (looks recent pump) and fuel bowl. One time I had my one of my pumps replaced the banjo bolt was leaking within 100 miles, and another time they did not replace the hose clamp at the bottom of the bowl and it was stripped and causing the leak. I have replaced both my trucks pumps myself (again) in the last 12 months with so far no issues. I now use new lines and clamps every time (diesel o-rings). They sell a great pump too that is supposed to stand up to the new junk fuel. How bad is this leak it would have to be pretty bad to not cause the bowl to fill. Both my trucks used to drip pretty good and still ran fine. Did you recently switch tanks before the loss of fuel? One of our members recently had a fuel tank switch problem.
 

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I would check all the connections off the (looks recent pump) and fuel bowl. One time I had my one of my pumps replaced the banjo bolt was leaking within 100 miles, and another time they did not replace the hose clamp at the bottom of the bowl and it was stripped and causing the leak. I have replaced both my trucks pumps myself (again) in the last 12 months with so far no issues. I now use new lines and clamps every time (diesel o-rings). They sell a great pump too that is supposed to stand up to the new junk fuel. How bad is this leak it would have to be pretty bad to not cause the bowl to fill. Both my trucks used to drip pretty good and still ran fine. Did you recently switch tanks before the loss of fuel? One of our members recently had a fuel tank switch problem.
Yeah I’m sure it’s something they didn’t do or should have done. It was leaking pretty good but I think your right I don’t think it was leaking fast enough not to fill. A drop probably every second. No I didn’t change the tanks, I kinda afraid to touch that button.😂😂. When I get time I will look into it and post some pics
 

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Yeah a drop every second is not going to cause any issues (except with the EPA). Mine both leaked like that for months before I got tried of the stains on my own driveway, not to mention working on my high end clients houses where I had to put a rag down under the truck so it would not stain their driveways! You may have a fuel restriction. Where Are you located your profile does not say. It is not well below freezing by chance?
 

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Yeah a drop every second is not going to cause any issues (except with the EPA). Mine both leaked like that for months before I got tried of the stains on my own driveway, not to mention working on my high end clients houses where I had to put a rag down under the truck so it would not stain their driveways! You may have a fuel restriction. Where Are you located your profile does not say. It is not well below freezing by chance?
I’m out of Indiana and the temps are in the 40’s right now. I will look into it when I get some time and give feed back.
 
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