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1996 7.3 f250 CCSB Intercooled / electric fuel / stage 2 injectors / adrenaline hpop / hydra tuned
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I just joined because I see a lot of advice here for people dealing with E4OD and I have stumbled into some issues myself. It seems like the torque converter doesn’t like to lock up anymore except under heavy throttle. The transmission shifts extremely smooth, and usually would jump into OD around 40 mph. As of late I noticed higher rpms at this speed and more of a torque converter slip than a lock up. So I tried highway speeds and it was definitely the case. I’m usually sitting at around 2k rpm at 65 MPH and now I’m driving at 55mph and the truck is at 2000 rpm already. The second I apply light throttle and let off the RPMS move more than the truck does. But if I floor it, RPM’s drop heavy (telling me the TC locks up great but only at certian throttle positon) and the truck pulls super hard. However, The second I go to let off or lighten throttle it’ll hop right out of TC lock rather aggressively and RPM will bounce back up. There’s no engine codes that I’m aware of. There is an on and off ABS light but it’s always been there, even before symptoms.
Live data:
Accelerator Throttle Positon (@ idle foot off pedal) reading 9.66% at .48 volts
Something else I noticed - “brake pressure applied switch” turns on and off corresponding to me hitting the brake pedal. However “brake ON/OFF” is always saying ON
Not sure what this means but sharing all my info.
other things to account for - trans fluid is really clean still, full, and not burnt looking... yet atleast
 

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The brake on/off is almost certainly the problem. It will prevent lockup below a certain pedal position when in the ON position.

Being almost certain that there are no engine codes is absolutely useless information. What transmission and engine codes are set? A bad brake light switch will show up during the self test.
 
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1996 7.3 f250 CCSB Intercooled / electric fuel / stage 2 injectors / adrenaline hpop / hydra tuned
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4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
ALLLLLL of the truck's details need to be in your signature. How many & which bulbs have been replaced with LEDs?

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Thanks Steve. Will get to that ASAP, I tried on my phone and having a little trouble.
 

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1996 7.3 f250 CCSB Intercooled / electric fuel / stage 2 injectors / adrenaline hpop / hydra tuned
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4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The brake on/off is almost certainly the problem. It will prevent lockup below a certain pedal position when in the ON position.

Being almost certain that there are no engine codes is absolutely useless information. What transmission and engine codes are set? A bad brake light switch will show up during the self test.
Sorry it’s taken a few days to get back to this, but I’ve been driving the truck and noticing the habits over the past week. First off, the truck has a hydra tuner on it and I’m only getting code P0603, no transmission codes. I’ve been driving this truck for about a year and since this issue started in the last 3 weeks I haven’t added and LED brake lights. I’m still experiencing a TC slip 95% of the time I’m driving, no usual OD lockout at around 42 mph which used to be normal. Instead, RPMS are still higher than usual at all speeds and as I lay into throttle there’s more slip than lockup.
Here’s a few significant things I’m noticing:

  • before this issue started, under normal driving conditions assume cruising at 45 mph, if I let off the gas the RPM’s would hang until I tap the brakes, where they would then drop down to around idle(600rpm) During my slipping issue, I’m noticing there’s no more rev hangs and it’s not necessarily dropping to “idle” the same way. Now, If I’m cruising at 45 and let off, it will instantly drop to about 1000 rpm, no rev hang, and not dependent on when I’m hitting the brakes to signal the idle drop.
  • before this issue started the shifts weren’t always the “smoothest” but everything worked great, now there’s so much slip most times you almost can’t tell when the transmission is shifting.
  • the TC STILL LOCKS UP GREAT SOMETIMES! Under really heavy throttle or in the morning.
  • some mornings the transmission will shift like it used to (a little bit harder shifts with no extra slip) for about 5 minutes then the problems begin.
  • I can also get the TC to lock up fine under what seems like about 60% or more throttle. The second I get off the pedal however it’ll uncomfortably jump out of lock up. With live data up on my scanner what seemed like about 70-80% throttle only read around 50% or 2.5V
  • Live data shows the ecu thinks coolant temp is 252 degrees (doesn’t move) however the gauge on the dash shows perfect and I know the engine isn’t overheating. It will show this shortly after a cold start.
  • yes I have a LED 3rd brake light but I’ve had it since the second week I bought the truck, already added proper resistors to fix the issue it caused when I installed them originally.
  • live data still shows two brake switch readings, “brake ON/OFF” always reading on and “brake pressure applied switch” changes as you press brake pedal and let go

Thanks for taking the time to look this over. The trucks finally running so good and this is the last thing getting in my way from truly enjoying it. Cheers!
 

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I am by no means a trans expert like Mark, but I have a quick thought reading through your last post. Unplug your third brake light? You say you have LED's in there that caused problems before. You say you solved it back then, but maybe something is wrong again. From what I was told once on this forum when I questioned about my truck. Being unplugged is OK it is when they are plugged up and faulty that causes problems. Again just my first thought, and a very easy test.
 

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1996 7.3 f250 CCSB Intercooled / electric fuel / stage 2 injectors / adrenaline hpop / hydra tuned
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I am by no means a trans expert like Mark, but I have a quick thought reading through your last post. Unplug your third brake light? You say you have LED's in there that caused problems before. You say you solved it back then, but maybe something is wrong again. From what I was told once on this forum when I questioned about my truck. Being unplugged is OK it is when they are plugged up and faulty that causes problems. Again just my first thought, and a very easy test.
When I first got the truck and added the light I did try it for a little bit unplugged and realized it wasn’t too happy that way either. I will pull it back and make sure the wiring is still good. My goal is to reinstall a oem 3rd light but considering I went over 8 months with the light installed and no issue, I’m hoping there’s another possibility here. Thanks!
 

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  • before this issue started, under normal driving conditions assume cruising at 45 mph, if I let off the gas the RPM’s would hang until I tap the brakes, where they would then drop down to around idle(600rpm) During my slipping issue, I’m noticing there’s no more rev hangs and it’s not necessarily dropping to “idle” the same way. Now, If I’m cruising at 45 and let off, it will instantly drop to about 1000 rpm, no rev hang, and not dependent on when I’m hitting the brakes to signal the idle drop.
  • A bad brake on/off switch can cause this. This switch is located near the top of the brake pedal under the dash.
    [*]the TC STILL LOCKS UP GREAT SOMETIMES! Under really heavy throttle or in the morning.
    A bad brake on/off switch can cause this.
    [*]I can also get the TC to lock up fine under what seems like about 60% or more throttle. The second I get off the pedal however it’ll uncomfortably jump out of lock up. With live data up on my scanner what seemed like about 70-80% throttle only read around 50% or 2.5V
    A bad brake on/off switch can cause this.
    [*]Live data shows the ecu thinks coolant temp is 252 degrees (doesn’t move) however the gauge on the dash shows perfect and I know the engine isn’t overheating. It will show this shortly after a cold start.
    That is probably a bad sender. The computer uses a different sender than the gauge.
    [*]live data still shows two brake switch readings, “brake ON/OFF” always reading on and “brake pressure applied switch” changes as you press brake pedal and let go
    That sure points towards a bad brake on/off switch.
 
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...not dependent on when I’m hitting the brakes to signal the idle drop.
...now there’s so much slip most times you almost can’t tell when the transmission is shifting.
the TC STILL LOCKS UP GREAT SOMETIMES! Under really heavy throttle or in the morning.
All of that is exactly what mine did when I swapped all 3 brake bulbs to LED, but before adding a resistor.
...added proper resistors to fix the issue it caused when I installed them originally.
It only takes 1. What resistors did you add, and where, exactly?
...“brake ON/OFF” always reading on and “brake pressure applied switch” changes as you press brake pedal and let go
That again sounds like all brake filaments are LED. Try this easy test: while watching that live data, unplug the BOO on the pedal. If the BOO status changes, then the BOO is probably bad. If not, it's more likely an LED/resistor problem.

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