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Discussion Starter #1
Hey how’s it going, I bought a 99 7.3l and the factory fuel bowl and lines were leaking bad! Truck ran great! Anyways I ended up doing the irate regulated return and ever sense then the truck has been running horrible!
What’s been done regulated return
Had to remove the turbo in the process to get the rear fittings
The passenger rear fitting snapped when I was removing it🤦🏻‍♂️ Fought it and finally got it out cleaned is up until I wasn’t pulling anything out.
had all the injectors pulled and tested (all passed) and resealed. Checked the uvch out with a multimeter aswell!
 

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Did you pull the injectors because it was running bad or before? It takes about 60 miles of aggressive driving to get the air out of the high pressure lines. It is also real easy to get the spring in the wrong spot when messing with the fpr. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge?


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Discussion Starter #3
Did you pull the injectors because it was running bad or before? It takes about 60 miles of aggressive driving to get the air out of the high pressure lines. It is also real easy to get the spring in the wrong spot when messing with the fpr. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge?


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I pulled the injectors thinking that’s what the problem was. I got them all tested and replaced the ones that needed to be. Spring in the wrong spot? The kit I’m running there are no springs to mess with (unless you take everything apart). Picture is a reference to wait regulated return I’m running in the truck.
158731
 

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Gotcha. It shows a fuel gauge. Does yours have that? What’s the pressure?


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Discussion Starter #5
Gotcha. It shows a fuel gauge. Does yours have that? What’s the pressure?


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Sorry for the long wait on the reply!
yeah the gauge reads 55psi. I can adjust the gauge to hold more or less psi is the heads. Doesn’t change weather it’s cranked up to 65 psi or down to 35 psi.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well the rain finally let up and had sometime to play with the truck today. I really need a shop if I’m going to keep playing with these dinosaurs🤦🏻‍♂️😂 Also are the YouTube videos pulling up?
has anyone ever had a issue like this with leaking up pipes? It’s a stretch I know.. also a turbo leaking oil past the internal seals?
exhaust definitely smells like diesel not coolant.
it does it’s smoke show weather it’s hot or cold (engine temp)
The Vgt on the turbo seemed to still kick in randomly even when the temp gauge was showing the motor to be hot. Is that normal?! My other 7.3 has a t4 kit on it🤘🏻
motor definitely doesn’t sound right when it’s idling either
Pulled the down pipe to the side to see if there was any obvious fluid in down pipe, I didn’t see any.
 

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These engines don't have a VGT turbo, unless someone went to the trouble to put one in. I don't think leaking up pipes would cause your white smoke. Have you ohmed out the wiring harnesses? Oil in the exhaust is usually grey or blue smoke, and smells like burning oil, not diesel. The videos are fine...the truck sounds great until you floor the pedal and you can hear it bog down as the smoke comes out.
 

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Dually, T500, S&B intake, 4 inch exhaust, BTS Tranny, WW2, bags, front mount hitch, crap EDGE CTS
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When you took the injectors out, what did you do with all the oil that rain into the cylinders?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
When you took the injectors out, what did you do with all the oil that rain into the cylinders?
I sucked the oil out with a make shift turkey syringe with a piece of plastic line on it to be able to reach to the pistons. And I also rotated the motor over with a bar on the crank before I put the injectors back in!
truck is scheduled to go into the shop next Wednesday. I’d like to get it road worthy and start daily driving it so I can sell my cummins before another front end problem comes up🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️ And my cclb obs is a freaking boat to dd and the motor setup is a little to spicy for winter driving!
The shops going to plug there scan tool in and see if they can’t point me in the right direction (120$)
 

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And I also rotated the motor over with a bar on the crank before I put the injectors back in!
Rotating the engine with injectors out will put a small amount of oil back in the cylinders. The correct way to purge the oil after an injector change is to suck out the bulk of the oil, install the injectors and bar the engine over at least two full revolutions with the glow plugs out. I also like to crank the engine with the starter to blow the remaining residual oil out and pressure up the HP oil galleries, then reinstall the glow plugs and fire it off.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok got the truck back the shop called and said injectors 1,3 and 8 aren’t working and up pipes are leaking (we already knew that one) They tested the injectors with a breakout box and showed me how the motor acted when they killed power to 1,3 and 8 vs the rest of them. So with that being said and having the injectors tested a few month ago and the wires from the idm to injector pigtails testing good and clues? I’m going to call the shop and see if they tested the solenoid on the injectors as well as flow tested them or just flow tested. Also new up pipes ebp delete and turbo rebuild will be here tomorrow.. just in time for the rain🤦🏻‍♂️😂
Happy New Years guys!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok got the turbo rebuilt and the new up pipes in.. I forgot how fun those can be🤦🏻‍♂️ Just fired it up and definitely still has a misfire but the popping/ stumble at 2200-2500 rpms is gone. Next order of business is to pull those 3 injectors that the breakout box found no change in.

those new superdutys were looking pretty appealing when I was at the ford garage trying to track gaskets down😅
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok got the injectors pulled and dropped off today. After pulling the injector pig tails off to confirm what injectors were “dead” I noticed it almost seemed to kill the whole passenger bank after pulling #3 injector and plugging it back in. But if I started the truck with #3 unplugged if I was to unplug #5 or #7 there was a definite change in idle. I believe #1 and #3 injectors were the ones I changed not long ago.

everything was still tight! if injectors test good I’ll reomh idm plug.
possible idm freak idm failure? I’m starting to look into compression testers but I find it hard to believe I could have a compression issue while having very little to zero blow by and the issue coming up suddenly vs over time.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just got the call from the injection shop, the injectors tested good🤦🏻‍♂️ I’ll put them back in and retest the wiring again just to be sure it’s ok. Starting to lean towards idm
Anyone have any insight?
 

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Have you ohmed out the wiring to eliminate the IDM as being bad? Look up GB Tech bulletin #103. It's on this site
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok update. Chased the injector that ohmed open, somehow I forgot to plug that injector back in while I was pulling 1,3 and 8 out to get tested. Once plugged in everything ohmed good from idm plug to the injectors.
Swapped the idm out as well with a spare I have for my obs. No change. Trucks still doing the same stuff. I’ll take a video of the truck running tomorrow and let you guys get your eyes on it. Motor shakes horribly when it’s idling back down from being revved definitely sounds like it’s missing.
the only thing I can think is when the fuel fitting on the back of the passenger head broke maybe metal got in the fuel rail while I was extracting the broke fitting. I spent a good amount of time cleaning the rail out once I got the broke piece out.
 
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