[huntjock]

I am open to whatever suggestions and comments. This happens to be the WORST possible time to have truck problems - hunting season.

Symptoms:
a month or so ago slight shuddering @ ~50mph; since then when trying to jump on it for an on-ramp or a pass, very high rpms but won't shift unless I let off on the throttle, slow it down and then patiently work back up to speed. Very smooth shifts if slowly working its way thru the gears (no load) and warmed up - but still cannot WOT without the high rpm no-shift condition. Last week it hard a VERY hard time starting one morning - weather not yet cold at all. Replaced the batteries with no change. Finally (and luckily) started - but not an immediate start. Starts seemed fine after that - started right up each morning no problem - until this morning after letting it sit for 2 days - another long and unsteady crank hard start. After warming up, still shuddering @ ~45mph, hard shifts at much higher rpms if pushing the throttle a little.

Oil level is good; coolant level is good; alternator generating 14.32v.
No codes have been thrown at all.
(Edit: mpg has dropped from about 15.7 to 13.5 for the same driving conditions over the past 6 weeks)
(Edit2: no smoke at all)

Things I have done:
Since shuddering began:
Added 8 oz of Diesel Kleen (cetane boost) to each fillup. No noticeable diff.
Last week after the very hard start:
New batteries replaced the 4 1/2 yr old ones. No noticeable diff.
Cleaned EGR, but was not that bad since cleaning it a year ago. Replaced o-rings and gasket. No noticeable diff.
Replaced degas bottle cap. No noticeable diff.
Changed fuel filters, drained HFCM. No noticeable diff.
Replaced accelerator pedal. No noticeable diff.
2 months ago: Regular oil change, Rotella T6, and filter (OEM)
4 years ago (93K mi): ICP sensor (P2285, P132B)
5 1/2 yrs ago (82K mi): HPOP

Things I am about to do:
Drain "original" tran fluid, clean pan, replace filters and top off with 8-9 qt of SP or LV. (Filters in hand, but yet to get ATF fluid).
Flush "original" coolant and add new Gold (3 gal); install coolant filter system (Sinister kit in hand)
Blue spring mod (kit in hand)
Check oil filter for proper seating

Things I thought about doing:
Clean/recondition the VGT/turbo

Things I think may need to be done - but not by me:
Replace injectors

Last time I had a scan was 5 1/2 years ago @ 82K mi, $85 by dealer. I may end up taking it in today for a scan.

 

[huntjock]

This video is a perfect representation of the hard start I had this morning.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_profilepage&v=eNrMiYLZ5jw

Maybe FICM? I will probably find out when I take it in for a scan today. Do I repair or replace the FICM? Could there be a harness that has worn thru and shorted?

Other ideas?

THANKS!!

 

[huntjock]

Can't get it in for a scan until tomorrow - scheduled.
In the meantime, I started it up - not a snappy start like I am used to but not the worst, it varies. After letting it warm up a few min, I slowly depressed the throttle and when it hit about 1050 rpm it felt like a "miss". As I continued to ~1800 rpm the "miss" could be felt and heard. Repeated a few more times with same results. Still no codes thrown.

 

[ByronF350]

do you have the ability to monitor the motor? it could very well be a high pressure oil leak.

 

[huntjock]

do you have the ability to monitor the motor? it could very well be a high pressure oil leak.

No, I am unable to monitor the motor. Gonna have it diagnosed tomorrow morning. Regardless, it feels expensive...whether FICM, injectors or HPOP.

Thanks for responding.

I will post the outcome, just in case it helps anyone else down the road.

 

[Ford06]

My bet is FICM. You can test the FICM voltage yourself with a multi tester if you want. Plenty on Youtube about it. If it is the FICM, call Ed at ficmrepair.com. For a fee they will send you a repaired unit before you remove and return your FICM so you won't have down time.

 

[huntjock]

My bet is FICM. You can test the FICM voltage yourself with a multi tester if you want. Plenty on Youtube about it. If it is the FICM, call Ed at ficmrepair.com. For a fee they will send you a repaired unit before you remove and return your FICM so you won't have down time.

Yup!

FICM.

Going to pick up the truck now. I was totally at the mercy of the Ford repair shop due to the timing. I am heading out tomorrow for an elk hunt. The whole month of October is like that.

For the price they are charging, I am going to request that they part with the core so that I can have a backup.

 

[huntjock]

Back to working like it has, which is the most important thing.

I need to call them before I leave tomorrow to help me understand why they added a $140 charge for a core charge.

I didn't think to ask them while I was there - except to say (sorta jokingly) that for the price they should gift me the original core.