The Diesel Stop banner
1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,934 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Going into winter I always check things paying close attention to item that corrode. I discovered after removing my front fender liners unhappiness.
First up was the Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor tube manifold fitting it was getting to corroded for my comfort, of course it was seized.

Here I have a 6 point 9/16 socket on it. I'm applying counterclockwise tension on it. You will notice, while heating I'm deflecting the flame away from fitting. I do this so the heat sinks to the manifold. If you do not do it this way the fitting will overheat on the portion above the manifold and it will twist off elevating your frustration. If you used a penetrant first and apply heat like this a flash over is possible and the fender well will load up with extremely toxic fumes.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,934 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was able to get in there with a wire wheel on a drill. After removing the rust, I put on rubber gloves, wet a rag with acetone and wiped it down prior to using VHT primer and top coat. It is important to thoroughly let dry or when heated it will degas. That where the solvent on manifold blows through your new paint job and it then flakes off.
The curing process is to idle ten minutes, let cool 10 minutes, idle 20 minutes, let cool 20 minutes, drive normally for 30 minutes let cool.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,934 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I desired to scrape and sand off the old paint on frame. After doing that the rubber gloves were back on to wipe down the frame with acetone. Ford used wax on the frame so it's important to make sure all traces of that are gone.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,934 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Here I have power washed the liner, lightly scuffed with 200 grit sandpaper, wiped down with acetone,wearing gloves. I used Krylon Fusion paint for plastic. The directions want it cleaned with an ammonia based cleaner. I used ammonia. Where a respirator to protect yourself.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,934 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I took the opportunity to check up on the IDM, I found signs that made me want to seal it up a bit more. Also behind the IDM is a noise dreading filler panel. I pulled it to check for corrosion. Mines was loose and rattling around. Do the same with ABS module.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,846 Posts
Welcome back nick!

Good write up. I replaced the tube several years ago and reinstalled with a healthy coat of antiseize as well
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
447 Posts
Living in northern Iowa and the land of salt on the roads. I don't know if i can even get my manifolds off of my truck and it only has 125,000 miles on it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,934 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thnx Blue!
BShauler the upside with them is that there is a lot of room where the bolt goes through, so the shaft of bolt is not in there that is lots of corrosion locking it to the manifold, so it's down to how bad the threads are locked in and then you need to heat it without overheating shaft of bolts. This was all done on the truck.
Manifolds will rot away if not treated were you and I live.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
447 Posts
If I get mine off. New ones are going back on. The guys out of the rust belt don't know how good they have it. The 6.0 that I bought out of St Louis looks just like a new truck compared to one out of norther Iowa.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,934 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Oh that sal****er spraying on them just eats them up.
The DAP X hose pro is your best friend. Upon returning from driving on salty streets you run cold water out of your sink inside, outside. Lay down and start washing that stuff off everything.
I did not coat my manifolds when new.
Taking the door panels off every year to look inside is key. Water goes past the old weatherstripping against glass. It also go past the door handle assembly. Once touched up you can spray Boeshield by Boeing in there. Good enough for Boeing it's good for your Superduty. It's a paraffin based compound so if anything ever does break out, it can be washed out with a solvent.
Sills panels, that reinforcement pocket at bottom of footwell in the front. You have to hunt down every pocket and other hidden items.


Slide Pins in calipers should be addressed as they like to seize up.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,415 Posts
Looks good, what a lot of work though. Luckily we don't see much rust here and the only salt we get it when we drive on the beach down in Mexico.
We have to watch for exhaust bolts loosening up and even falling out since there is no rust to hold them!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,934 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
That's hysterical, if I had someone call and say that, Ide say it was brand new and dealer would do it for free.
Thank you for the compliment. If you don't paint early before rust sets in and do annual checks it will look like this.
Notice the plow brackets aged better. Factory is a joke. I saw a guy hit his frame with pressurized water at a car wash. It stripped the wax and that paper thin primer stuff, rust broke out on it when I saw him a year later.
This is not mine. The key is never letting it get like that.
 

Attachments

1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top