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Discussion Starter #1
I recently gutted my EBPV and I followed the instruction on one of the threads on this site. IT worked out very well. After the mod, I did not find any oil leaks, or persuing issues. However, people keep making referencence to the metal cable that attaches to the EBPV butterfly valve and oil gallies... I got to thinking maybe there is a small oil passage somehow into the EBPV flapper to stop it from seizing in one spot under all that heat... it was dark when I modified it and don't see any leaks, engine oil level may be a bit low, but no obvious signs of burning oil or anything.... this is a 1996 PSD... am I missing something? Are people making references to a newer year where oil lubrication went thru the pedistal to the turbo cold and hot side bearings?
 

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The metal actuator rod is moved by oil pressure when it gets hot it will open the ebpv. Mine did not leak right away but sure enough over time it did. I had my rod removed and tapped the whole and threaded a bot in it with some jb weld around it. No more leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
How does the rod come out? Do I need to remove the turbo etc to access the rod? Any reference pages to this? Sorry for all the questions, its my daily driver and I am trying to do this in the dark after work.... Thanks.
 

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The actuator itself is part of the turbo pedestal. To "properly" delete it, the pedestal is removed, the actuator cylinder housing is cut/ground away, and the corresponding oil passageways are welded shut. That's what I did.

Or you order a non-EBPV pedestal.

Many folks have written of plugging the rod hole with some degree of success. I had my pedestal out anyways to change o-rings and turbo gaskets, so I went with the welding program. Here's what the pedestal looks like after it's been cut and ground, prior to welding.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I can see the rod, but cannot see exactly how it sits in the housing with the turbo in place... if I am going to put a pipe plug in it, what do I do to remove the rod without removing the pedistal? I would assume I have to remove the pedistal, remove the rod, and put the plug in it... is there any other way? Sorry for the stupid question, but I have no place to work on it, and its my daily driver, so I always plan ahead for my repairs... why is it this rod only leaks when detached from the EBPV? perhaps there is a way to secure the rod in place where it would sit before gutted? Thanks for the info...
 

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Actually the rod does leak even when connected to the valve. To completely remove the rod from the cylinder, you have to remove the cover on the rear of the cylinder. I'm not sure if anyone has pulled the rod far enough out and wacked it off and then used a pipe plug on the hole (after pushing the remaining rod back in). You might be able to do that, but hopefully anyone that might have done it will chime in (I modified my pedestal and gutted the EBPV ... pic in sig)! Cheers!
 

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why is it this rod only leaks when detached from the EBPV? perhaps there is a way to secure the rod in place where it would sit before gutted? Thanks for the info...

The rod leaks because the arm that is was attached to kept the seal inside the cylinder straight. You can leave the cylinder on there, you just have to take it apart,remove the rod and "piston" inside and tap the rod hole for a pipe plug.

I have since cut off the cylinder on mine,but when I first gutted the EBPV, I welded the arm back onto the steel dowel that pluged the holes to keep the rod in it's normal position and had no leaks.

 

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If you have never removed the turbo it is a PITA. It took my mechanic about 4 hrs.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks for all the tips and info.... I have recieved alot of different opinions of mods and solutions.... One last question... If you cut pull the rod out of the pedistal, cut it, and stuff it back in and run a pipe plug in its place, does it not possibly restrict the oil passageways which supply the turbo etc? Also, when pulling off the pedistal and removing the "piston and rod", it is my understanding there are enclosed in the pedistal and there is no way to access these items to remove them other than cutting the pedistal.... Can anyone please clarify? Thank you. I'm going out to remove my turbo today, and get a better look. Thanks for your help.
 

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If you cut pull the rod out of the pedistal, cut it, and stuff it back in and run a pipe plug in its place, does it not possibly restrict the oil passageways which supply the turbo etc?
It has no effect on the turbo lube oil. But when you thread the hole you will get some metal chips fall inside the engine.

Also, when pulling off the pedistal and removing the "piston and rod", it is my understanding there are enclosed in the pedistal and there is no way to access these items to remove them other than cutting the pedistal.... Can anyone please clarify?
You can remove the piston without cutting anything. There is a cover held in place by a shap ring.
 

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The actuator itself is part of the turbo pedestal. To "properly" delete it, the pedestal is removed, the actuator cylinder housing is cut/ground away, and the corresponding oil passageways are welded shut. That's what I did.

Or you order a non-EBPV pedestal.

Many folks have written of plugging the rod hole with some degree of success. I had my pedestal out anyways to change o-rings and turbo gaskets, so I went with the welding program. Here's what the pedestal looks like after it's been cut and ground, prior to welding.
Have pictures of after you welded it up?
 
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